Gary L

I know my description of what happened is kind of vague, but it happened so quickly. It was almost like someone pulled the plug! Or like my ECU shut down, which I'm sure didn't happen. Right now, its running great so I'll have to see if I can get it to happen again, while close to home. I did once have an electric fuel pump quit in the family van while cruising on the highway and it died instantly, no chugging or spit/sputtering. So may be something did momentarily clog the fuel pump. Anyhow, I was hoping someone else had a similar experience and a suggestion on what to look at first. I will do some checking of the fuel pump first (eg,electrical connections, etc) Gary

I've got a 76 280z 2+2 with EFI that I've been "refreshing" over the past couple of years. Everything is pretty much stock. I've just recently been taking some test drives and as mentioned it seemed to be running great. Then on the way home after turning off on a side street at about 20 mph it just died. It happened so fast I'm not even sure how to describe it. It's kind of like it lost all power or else its like the new fuel pump I recently put in quit or ... Like I mentioned, it happened so fast I'm not sure what happened. So I coasted to the side of the road and when I tried to start it, it fired right up. So I continued heading home, which was only about 1 mile away, and about half way it kind of chugged for just a second while the tach shot up momentarily to about 3K and then it ran fine again the rest of the way home. When I got home I kept it running in the driveway and gave it a quick look over and could not find anything wrong. I rev'ed it up a few times and it ran great. Bummer. Now I'm going to be gun-shy about taking it places. Anyhow, has this happened to anyone else? Any thoughts on what could have caused it or what I should be checking first? Thanks Gary

Hi Mart, I've thought about doing that. It seems some of my other newer cars are set-up like this. However, I think they also have an inertia switch in case of an accident. Datsun set it up that way for safety. I'd like to change it so that the pump starts when the key is in the on position, but I'm not very good at wiring stuff. If someone else has done this and has some nice, easy to follow instructions on doing this, that'd be great. Gary

I put a new Bosch FPR on it a couple of days ago and now it starts right up after cranking for only a couple of seconds. Thanks everyone Gary

When I rev it up a little, the fuel pressure does jump from 28 to may be 29 for a second or two. But why isn't it closer to 36 as specified in the FSM? When I put a vacuum gauge on my engine, it does read a steady 17 and when I flick the throttle, it drops to zero then up to about 25 and then settles back to a steady 17, so I do think I have a "healthy" engine. Gary

This morning I went to O'Reilly Auto Parts and they loaned me a fuel pressure gauge no charge. I hooked it up as described by Chas (in the rubber fuel hose just after the fuel filter). The first thing I noticed was that my fuel pressure was only 28, not the 36 per specs. When I shut the engine off the pressure immediate and quickly dropped to zero. After starting the engine again (and of course it has to crank for awhile), I shut it off and clamped the hose just after the gauge but before where the fuel rail starts. This stopped the pressure drop and so I think my check valves are OK. Then I repeated this process but clamped the return line hose after the fuel rail. This also stopped the dropping pressure. So if I'm looking at this correctly, not only does my FPR not maintain proper pressure of 36, but it must be leaking. This is good news since its easier to change the FPR than check and change the injectors. Anyone have a suggestion for a good FPR that is reasonably priced? I know some are pretty expensive (eg > $100). Anyone try the Echlin from NAPA Auto that runs about $70 ? I know Echlin makes quality electronic components and I hoping their other products are also excellent. Gary

Chas describes a process for narrowing down what is leaking, which I haven't had a chance to do yet. When it comes to the injectors, if I do suspect an injector or two, is there a way to check them individually without pulling them? Its kind of a pain pulling them. And even if I do, how do I then test them? If an injector is leaking gas into the cylinder shouldn't it be leaking down the cylinder walls and into the oil. That was one of the problems with Ford's 2.8L engines in the Bronco IIs --- the carbs were always flooding and running rich and the raw gas seeped past the rings into the oil diluting it. I think I did mention the injectors are new, having put them in last year. I forget what brand they are. When I purchased the car a couple of years ago, everything was original and thats why I have been replacing many of the almost 40 year old parts ( a "refreshing" project). Gary

Well, that didn't help, darn it I got the check valve installed last night as described above. It fit well in that location and doesn't leak, but when I tried starting it this morning I had to crank it for awhile before it started. I didn't pull the line apart yet to see if there is any pressure, but I'll do than tomorrow and then probably proceed with a pressure gauge as outlined by Chas. The new FPR I put on it last year was an aftermarket one but I can't remember the brand. May be that's the culprit. If it was a leaky cold start valve for example, it seems I'd smell raw gas through the AFM/air filter for example. Once it starts, it does run well with great throttle response. Gary

Steve, thanks for the "heads-up". That being the case I'll definitely leave it up on the jack stands and run it for awhile to make sure its not going to leak. I hope I got the ends together correctly and snugged enough. Since its going in a rubber hose section, I used the nylon rings with the bevel towards the nut. The illustration in the instructions wasn't the greatest. Gary

Hi Chas, I can't seem to find the PM. Anyhow, since I've recently replaced the injectors, FPR, fuel pump, check lines for leaks, etc., etc, I thought I'd try placing an inline check valve just above the fuel pump where the fuel damper was. There is just enough space to fit the following check valve I picked-up at Advanced Auto. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-oe-solutions-fuel-check-valve-5-16-800-195/10611403-P?searchTerm=fuel+check+valve The Dorman part number is 800-195 I'll let you know if it helps maintain fuel pressure. Gary

Thanks guys. I do see in the FSM the original fuel pump had some sort of a check valve and may be the aftermarket ones don't. I should have also mentioned this has been a 3 year "refresh" project where I've not only replaced the fuel pump and regulator, but also the injectors and cold start valve. I guess I'll try to find time to do the fuel pressure gauge and leak test at various section of the system. Gary

I've got a 76 z with the EFI. When I break open the fuel line just above the fuel filter for example (with the car off of course) there isn't any pressure in the fuel line and when starting it takes a while because I think it has to build up pressure again. I've recently put a new fuel pump on it and fuel pressure regulator. I did get rid of the fuel damper since it was the original and I don't think it was working and they aren't available any more. The engine does seem to run well, and smooth once started and warmed up. So my question is, what component is responsible for maintaining the fuel line pressure when the car is off? It's like somehow the fuel drains back to the fuel tank and the pressure is gone? I should also mention I can't find any obvious fuel leaks and there isn't any gasoline smell Thanks Gary