Marios280Z

Thanks guys. I'm adding Collinite 850 to my cart .

I'm going to take this post in a bit different direction since the issue is resolved now. Now that I have it off, what are my options on refreshing the throttle linkage (this applies to all linkage components from the fire wall to the TB)? If I paint it outside of the stand offs, than I will have hard time putting it back in and the paint will most likely get all scratched. I potentially could paint it after installation to make sure that the two spots where the linkage sits in the standoffs are not pained. I know I could metal coated it to return it to it's original golden color, but I don't know of a local place that could do it and I don't think I want to eat the cost of sending it somewhere else in the country. I'm assuming that if I bring fine sand paper to it and metal polishing paste, it will expose the metal and make it prone to corrosion in the near future, would you agree?

Reporting back. After removing securing screws and spraing a bit of PB Blaster, I was able to rather early remove it.Thanks guys.

I will try to work on it tonight or at least some time this weekend. I will report back

The collars themselves have threads.

Fantastic. Thanks Zed Head. I wasn't sure if they were design to slide out or not. I removed the retaining screws but they must be stuck in place due to light corrosion. I will try your method.

Zed Head, close, but if you would include the rest of the linkage image it would show my issue. I already removed the part that you have shown. Take a look at the attached picture. It's the two "ring" that are circled and pointed at with an arrow. As you can see unless I can remove them, that part of the throttle rod cannot come out out of the stand offs.

It's been over 7 years since this questions was asked, but it is as relevant back then as it is right now for me There are those rings on the throttle tension rod that prevent it form sliding in and out of the standoffs that hold the throttle rod. The rings are held in place on the rod via small screws. Undoing those screws, however, still does not allow me to pull the rod as the rings are still stopping it. It appears as if I have to bent them out of shape to remove them form the rod. IS that really the process? Thanks in advance guys!

Oh, how I wish I could afford them, instead I will have to settle on MSA headers...

Hey guys, just want to say that I finally wired the manual can override. I used one of the rubber grommets as rozzi sugested to bring the wire into the cabin. Then I repurposed the REAR DEFOGER switch and connected the wire from my can relay to it as seen in the picture. The black wire is the one that I brought from the relay. The fan instal manual shows to use 15A fuse inline with the hot wire going into the switch, and since the DEFOGER has its own 20A fuse in the fuse box, I think I'm OK. Just to be clear my DEFOGER does not work. I get the power at the REAR window, but unfortunately all the traces are broken. So I thought it was a good use of a currently installed switch. I also get nice blue light indication telling me that the fan is on. If any of you sees anything wrong with this implementation, let me know. On a different note, I have not investigate the REAR lights any further to look for a potential short. I've been driving for a while now and everything seems to be OK. I'm really wondering if it was a case of a 38 year old fuse that simply failed.

It's been a while since I looked into this. But there is something worth mentioning. Now that mornings are quite cold, high 30a low 40s, the car has been starting at the first attempt. It's an indication that the CSV is actually spraying the extra fuel (I also confirmed it with the injector in the jar test the other day on the cold morning). Just as starting fluid in a warmer day will make it start right up, the CSV helps. But this is just masking the issue. Some of you have mentioned that you entirely removed the CSV, and have no problem starting. One thing I would like to throw out there for consideration that I was told is vapor lock. What do you guys think about this theory? Anyways, there is not much more time left for me to drive this season. Car will probably go into storage pretty soon here. Maybe it will fix itself over the winter and the problem will be gone in the spring, no?

Wouldn't the diode on the green wire (override) prevent from grounding path? I think I got it. You recommend to put a diode, which is directional, on the yellow wire in a way that would allow flow from the temp sensor back to relay, but not the other way around, correct?

Last night I pulled out the fuse box to take a closer look at the wires coming into i. NONE of them looked like there was any type of failure. All good, not burned isolation, nothing. Chased it as far as I could to where it went into harness, and I still couldn't find anything. Considering how hot the fuse burned down, is it possible that the shortage took place somewhere else down the harness other than fuse itself? I was expecting to find melted wire at least in the vicinity of that fuse. I agree...I hate those problems that are not repeatable. I'm quite confident that I did NOT brake anything wiring wise when I was installing fans. I cannot, however, speak for what effect the fans have on the electrical system. Like I mentioned before, I did not notice a whole lot more load on the system, gauging by the dash volt meter. The only thing right now that is questionable regarding the fan harness is the manual override wire which suppose to be connected to manual switch that is in turn connected to 12 V low amperage signal. At this point the wire is sitting coiled together in the engine bay. There is a possibility that the wire might have touched the body of the car effectively grounding it. I have hard time believing that this would create the issue, since the wire goes back to the fans relay. I'm still planning to look at all the other lights connected to that harness.

Will do.

I like your theory and in many cases you have mentioned I've been thinking the same things. Last night when I found the fuse, I have put a new fuse (the same amperage, 15A) and with the engine off I first turn the positions lights on, so 4 markers plus the front dual purpose light. Watched the fuse for red glow, but there was nothing. So I got braver and turn the headlight switch one position further to turn head lights and rear lights, at which point I took cover in case of spontaneous inferno...Luckily (or maybe not so) there was nothing happening... This morning, whether it was smart move or not, I decided to drive the car to work. I left the fuse box cover off so I could monitor the fuse. I probably spent more time looking for a red glow on fuse than I looked at the road. Nothing happened. No problems. I suppose I should now go and examine every light that is on this circuit and clean the connections.

Zed Head, I have always been showing over 12 volts when engine is running. When engine is off the dash volt indicator shows just a little over 12V. I though that when alternator is charging the nominal value would be around 14-14.5V. What do you mean by VR?

I have never disassemble the fuse box. The fuse broke in half as I was trying to pull it out, I did not find it this way. Either way it got hot over there. I was driving in a straight line when things went dark on me. I have installed the fan relay and the fuse at the very front of the car, to the left of the RH headlamp and to the right of the coolant overflow tank. There already was a bolt not used by anything so I just attached the plastic relay box and also sued that bolt to provide ground to the relay. Then there is a power wire going straight to the battery and one to the override switch (eventually I will have it hooked up). Then there is power wire going straight to the fans. Grounds from the fans are attached to the car body by a bolt right underneath the carbon container. From the relay there is also a signal wire going to on of the terminals on the thermoswitch. The other terminal of the switch is connected to the + terminal on the ignition coil. I honestly don't know what I could be looking for on the new installed system. It really appears that it is nowhere near the circuit responsible for the rear lights, dash lights, and the dual function front orange light. Also, before I replaced the fuse I verified an I did have the back up light, but the glove box and the ash tray light was out.

Still have the problem. I know why the lights are not on: 15A fuse totally disintegrated. Also melted the fuse box cover. Took replacement fuse and tested with only marker lights on and dash lights on.Them turned the head lights on and all still looked OK. Car was off when I was doing this. The biggest question I have is what could have possibly caused it??

Yes,I do not have rear lights.

I have found those two rubber plugs. In my car they are used to wring in AC pipes inside the cabin.But I did see that there was plenty of rubber left to poke a hole and feed a small wire. On a different note, I had a bit of a malfunction happen to me on my way to work this morning. I don't want to highjack this post, but I'm going to mention it here since we have been talking about alternator here. As I was driving down the ride all of the sadden my lights went off. My dash went dark, and my head lights went dark. Radio worked, engine was spinning and electric fans were ON at that point. I turn the head light switch back and forth,but there was nothing. I continued driving down the streets for few more minutes, came to the intersection, and turn the blinker on, it worked. I then attempted to run the head lights on again, and this time they came ON,but still no dash lights. Few minutes later I pulled into my work parking lot, left the car running and got outside. My had lights were still on, but my marker lights as well as my rear lights were off. My front orang lights that are normally on and go brighter with blinker on were off, but turning the blinker on would make them flash. My rear blinker lights would flash as well. This far I have not had any other problem with my lights after dual Dan install. It did not seem like alternator was struggling a lot with fans on. Dash voltage gage would drop just a bit when idle and fans on, but probably less than if I turn the head lights by themselve.I also tested at idle with headlights and fans on, and again you could tell that fans slowed down a bit when lights went on, but I was still showing way over 12V on the dash volt gage. All that's test were done week and a half ago when I finished my fans install. Throughout the week Ice been paying attention to the volt gauge when fans kicked in and I did not see anything abnormal. What could be happening here? So you think my fans have anything to do with my light malfunction or is it coincident? I have not checked any fuses yet, but I will later today when I come back home.

Ahh, I don't believe I have seen them, but I will take a second look this evening. Thanks!

Yup, 78 here.

Yes, It is the green wire form the relay that I wanted to hook up to a switch. The other side of the switch would have to go to a low current 12V source. I was thinking about utilizing one of the mystery wires you have mentioned reside under the the glove box area. I have not done any other electrical work yet, no head light relay. Should I? I have been thinking about upgrading the stock lights with something modern that MSA or blackdragon guys offer. I believe at least one of the stores offers HD wiring harness that would should be put on with the new lights. But that's' a different topic

Yes, I like the twin pipe look. I would guess the shipping for me would be quite more expensive than what you paid.

Nice...Love the sound.So you have 240, I have 280, I wonder how it would fit.. I HAVE A 2.5" MSA exhaust with the turbo muffler. Also, what did you do to the engine that it revs up so easily?