jbond

Sold as of 10/28/17

There was some rust in front of and behind the rear wheels down low. It was cut out and patch panel metal welded in. The dash had cracks and was repaired using the info in the forums, The FI tubing, bolts, inspection light etc was cad plated using Caswells kit. It is listed at $20K and I have a deposit on it now. So its probably sold.... will know in a few days. Herb

My restored 280Z is for sale now. See: spies@nwflorida.net https://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/cto/d/datsun-280/6330462965.html

NOTE he said "ultra fine glass bead" . I tried normal glass beads and stopped quickly as it was pitting the plastic. I was using about 110 # of air pressure also. I wound up sanding by hand carefully .... takes a while . Repaired the pitted area with filler. Herb

I should have included you need to be able to describe the fittings on your existing parts, like mine were flare fittings and I needed a 45 degree bend. They were able to supply the required adapters to go from the old system to current oring fittings.

I just finished restoring a 280Z that had dealer installed AC from ARA (who is no longer in business). There was a company on Ebay last August advertising a "Underhood Upgrade Kit" that I called. The company was Air Manufacturing Corp in Graham TX (1-800-900-9560).They were helpful and knew what my ARA system consisted of. I wound up only using the original evaporator and the mounting bracket. They supplied all the other required components. (134 Compressor, expansion valve, hoses, condensor fittings etc. Cost was $725 I had a local AC place charge and balance it and it works great. It cools the car perfectly. I was expecting marginal performance because the evaporator was so small . It mounted behind the 2 vents in the center of the dash.

After I rebuilt the rear suspension on my 280 I also had a clunk when I hit small bumps. Solved by greasing the 2 blocks holding the rear sway bar to the body. I think they were binding until they let go over a bump and then CLUNK. Maybe an easy fix?

Look into the tank after you remove it. My 78 was quite rusty and had several metal fuel lines running inside the tank and a can in the center of the tank that had a strainer on the pickup line. Sloshing POR around inside the tank probably isn't going to fix a hole in the fuel pick line and the sealer might seal the strainer completely. These considerations made me think it was better to cut the tank in half and fix the potential problems inside before coating the tank.

MOYER FUEL TANK RENU 2011Western Avenue Greensburg, PA 15601 1-800-328-9550 Had mine cleaned and coated in August. They did a super job. They split the tank and fix the lines and slosh tank as well as coating the inside.

I have this one for sale. Its unused, came with a 280Z I bought. Have the rear section also. I'm in Florida. New ones are sold by MSA.

I am trying to reassemble a 280Z (Dec77 build date) that I purchased with all the engine electricals and Fuel Injection removed and stored in boxes. I'm getting close. But now I have a mystery wire attached to the distributor. Its obviously a ground wire but I'm not sure of its function or what it was attached to. In the picture the mystery wire is attached to the bolt holding the distributor in and has a bullet connector on the far end after about 1 foot of wire. I think it ran from the distributor (as in the attached pix) to a condenser near the ignition coil. The 78 FSM EE section on page EE-26 shows a circuit running from the coil positive wire thru a condenser to ground. But I'm not sure the wire shown in the pix is the ground wire in the FSM diagram. Part of my problem is that I haven't found the condenser in my boxes of parts. So if you have 78 280Z, could you look for this wire and tell me where the other end is attached and if you have a condenser mounted near the coil. I presume this condenser is for noise suppression in the ignition circuit. So I think I could just remove the wire? Any thoughts about this? Thanks

Another one is id'ed .... The plastic cover (first pix on the right in the first posting) is the cover for the relay housing. See pix attached of relay housing.

I too have some mystery parts, several are the same as the ones listed above. The first part pictured goes on near the differential near where the bolt for the A arm is. But I can not figure what the purpose of the part is. I have seen another picture that had what looks like a rubber flap attached to the 4 little button. I am including a picture I found on Ebay that shows this part. Also I am including a picture of my biggest mystery part. Any help will be appreciated. Herb