One Way

Been doing my research on this great website, even though I am an admitted and verifiable computer dummy, was not able to connect to some of the suggested links, the aluminum fuel rail seems to be an improved choice over the complex spaghetti bend tubing of the original. Drilling and tapping are in my limited machining capabilities and seems like a doable project costing a lot less than the premade aluminum rails. Sounds like a fun challenge. Just a couple of questions? How is the new rail attached to the intake? Are the barbed fittings tapped with NPT sizes or O-ring thread? Do the threaded end of the fittings need to be flush with the interior base of the rail? I could not seem to get the link with the measurements required but thought using the original rail as the template could also be a correct procedure. Thanks for any additional experienced help and advice. The aluminum fuel rail sure looks nicer, neater, cleaner than the spaghetti bend original fuel rail and sounds like it may also improve driveability and performance. Thanks again, John, Lugoff, SC.

Thanks for the great tips. Every rubber hose is going to be replaced as we tackle this project. The aluminum fuel rail looks a whole lot simpler and cleaner than the OEM style with all the tubing and fittings. I will study that out a bit further. I think the OEM rail has 3 open ends on it for the 78 model? The aluminum rail seems to just have the 2-one on each end. I will have to search through some pictures and see how one of those aluminum fuel rails is mounted and secured, Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC.

Progress continues slowly on this resurrection project. Acquired the car a few years back. Had not been registered since 1996 and the storage years were not very friendly to this amazingly 100% complete and original car. Being over 40 years old and badly sitting for some 20 years, the fuel system needs a total restoration. I am cleaning up the fuel rail-bit of surface rust in areas- and will be painting it with hi temp engine spray, primer and top coat. I am assuming the fuel pressure regulator is bad, and know all the injectors are bad. Am I better off to just replace the pressure regulator with the OEM factory style, or upgrade to an adjustable unit with a gauge? This is a budget project with a basically stock engine rebuild in the plans. This is not a " numbers matching restoration" but trying to build it as a reliable, fun, driver. Is the adjustable regulator and gauge worth the necessary minor modifications-mounting bracket, plumbing, etc.? Thanks for all the great input I have received from the great Z car people on this site, John-Lugoff, SC

Thanks for the responses. I did get 2 of the temperature sensors. They look to be correct and match right up to the old corroded sensors. O'Reilly Auto Parts have the 2 parts that fit my 78 280Z. 17-1253 & 17-1233, both under the line code of IDI. They also list the cold start valve under Standard Ignition brand but have no listing for the thermo timer sensor. Most of the dedicated Z sites do offer that sensor and I guess I will be purchasing one soon. Great tech article from siteunseen. Thank you, John-Lugoff, SC.

Slowly proceeding with restoring the thermostat housing/water outlet assembly. Lots of BLASTER and quite a bit of patience got all the sensors and fittings removed and the outlet separated from the thermostat housing. My question is on the sending unit with the single terminal stud. All of the ones I am locating do not have any threads, unlike the threaded version that was removed. Is that sending unit pressed into the nut or am I looking up the wrong part? The thermo timer seems to be the most expensive of the 3 sensors. Any recommendations or do I just bite the bullet and order a new one along with the cold start valve. The housings are now all cleaned, primed, and painted with the ceramic engine paint and look good. Just looking for some info on the best option for the additional parts needed. Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC. Enjoying every minute of the resurrection project!

The GATES # are correct. They are quite a rare commodity. Both boxes are actually labeled-MADE IN THE USA. Hopefully that includes the contents, not just the box. Being in the retail auto parts business, it is quite discouraging to see how few parts are actually made in the USA. GATES #23832 is the 2" ID. GATES #23820 is the 1-1/4" ID. Both come in 6 ft lengths. Both are listed in our company's catalog system under defrost hose. Thanks again for the responses. I am doing my best to keep the resurrection process going on the 78Z, John-Lugoff, SC.

Thanks for the great replies. Did a bit of parts research and have come up with some GATES # at a much better price than the Dorman or Dayco. Gates #23832 is the 2". Gates # 23820 is the 1-1/4". I should have those by this Friday and will keep everybody posted about the GATES duct hoses. The pictures and descriptions do not give any details except the I.D. and the 6 ft length they come in. About 1/3 the price of the other suppliers. DAYCO does list the #80165 as 1-1/4 I.D. Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC.

Thanks again! This diagram looks a bit different than my memory, but then again my memory is not always accurate. It would be reference #4 or #10. Not sure if your 1975 is identical to my 1978 but many of the illustrated parts look very similar. Is that the factory parts illustration you have? I was using CARPARTSMANUAL, especially when I was working on our 1968 2000 roadster for parts illustrations and numbers but on my last check on that website it came up with some CRITICAL ERROR ALERT and was not able to access the website which also had the Z cars, 510, and some other Datsun vintage vehicles. I am quite a computer dummy when it comes to navigating, downloading, etc. I guess I am a dinosaur and still prefer a paper copy in hand. Thanks again, John. I will be researching and tracking down those part # you provided if time permits today.

Thank you so much! It is always great to get part numbers with the suggestions. My 78 also has a smaller diameter hose that was barely there when disassembled and I think it was 1.25. I am going out to the garage right now and see if I can quickly locate the duct and measure it accurately. I know the part is in the box with the other disassembled pieces. Thanks again for the great help, John-Lugoff, SC

The 40 year old duct hoses are pretty deteriorated. Best suggestions for replacements? I am finding some 2" duct hose from DORMAN #96034 which looks more like the duct hose for the heat exchange from exhaust manifolds from older vehicles. Helpful suggestions always welcome. The resurrection project is slowly marching on. I will have a little more spare time the next few months now that school is over and my babysitting duties are done until the middle of August when our daughter returns to her teaching job. Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC

Thanks for the great info. The strangest thing about this project car is that many of the components are in like new condition with a gentle cleaning, and others are ravaged by rust. First choice is to refurbish but we have found out that is not an option on each part. Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC.

Continuing to refurbish smaller components on my resurrection project, and have started to tackle the wiper linkages. The car had been sitting for way too long before I decided to purchase it and sadly most of the pivot points in the wiper linkages were seized and one section badly rusted. Some BLASTER, patience, wire brushes, and various drill attachments have gotten all the parts cleaned up very nicely and are ready for some good primer and paint. The wave washers will be able to be reused, but the large thin washer and thin torsion spring on the end of the linkage arm are badly rotted as were most of the small retaining clips. The felt washers were also in rough shape. The wiper motor bag cover was intact but too brittle to save. Wiper motor looks like new except for one small portion on the motor case that is rusty. Probably sitting in water trapped in the bag cover or cowl area. Any sources for the hardware needed and the purpose of that light torsion spring? Thanks for any tips and have a thankful Thanksgiving, John-Lugoff, SC.

Just some additional thoughts toward the cost of reman products. Without looking it up and relying on my faulty memory, I believe the reman alternator for the 78 Z with a lifetime warranty was around $70 plus a $10 or $15 core charge. Basically the reman operation has an initial cost of that $15, plus shipping expenses, plus labor, overhead, parts, etc. Core costs are purely supply and demand driven. Not uncommon to have a $50-$80 core charge on newer vehicle alternators selling for $150-$200. Check out core prices for GM instrument clusters. Very often the core charge is much higher than the cost of the part. Core charge may be $300 or a little higher while the customer pays $150-$200 for the cluster. Very hard to figure out. Sometimes I wish I were a bit more involved on that end of the auto parts industries but really do enjoy the position of helping customers at the front counter solve their automotive needs. The LORD provided me this job and am thankful for it. Thanks for your time, John-Lugoff, SC.

The reman alternators and starters we sell with the lifetime warranties do come with an inspection and test sheet with a technician ID #. There is a PASS/ FAIL column and naturally they are all checked off PASS. Very few customers ever take the paperwork and instructions with them when we swap out the core at the time of purchase. Core must be placed back into the original box to be sent back. The reman operation is based in Mexico so I am sure the labor rates are very low. According to the store operations manual we are supposed to test each alternator sold-both reman and new-before giving it to the customer. Rarely happens unless requested by the customer due to the fast paced nature and low staffing of our store. That is the nature of almost any business today. We have had our share of alternators taken out of the box to examine before sale-another store operations manual instruction-and this usually gets done-and find broken/cracked posts or terminals, pulleys that will not turn, plastic covers cracked, etc. Some of that may be shipping damage, or could be lack of quality control. I will be digging into the service manual and having a challenge to tackle. Parts should be here towards the end of the week. Will keep you posted on progress, success or failure. Thanks , John-Lugoff, SC,

Just an additional thought. I will be spending about $30 more for the parts-2 bearings and the brush/regulator assy-than purchasing a reman unit, plus the time involved. Honestly I was quite surprised the brush/regulator assy was even available. The bearings are just common sized ball bearings. Probably does not make any financial sense but I will enjoy the project. Thanks for your time, John.

I would really like to know more about the quality control standards of both reman and new parts. Seems that todays business strategy stresses quantity over quality. Price is the obvious controlling factor. Most parts, including many reman units carry a lifetime warranty. Are they remanufactured to that quality standard or are the profits so high that warranty returns do not affect the bottom line that much? As stated before , my employer switched suppliers for reman alternators and starters about 2 years ago with the reason given being % rate of failures. That being said I am going to tackle my own rebuild on the alternator. Then I will know which parts are really new. I will have an enjoyable new challenge, just not too sure about my lack of experience and knowledge. It may end up like those dreaded reman stories shared in the above posts. Hopefully the factory service manual will have some tips and specifications. Just have not had the time needed to do more research. Thanks for all the comments. John-Lugoff, SC.

I am just planning ahead on the project and just thought it would be nice to have the factory original unit still in place. I am an assistant manager at a nation wide 5,000 plus store company and we do offer 1 year warranty remans, lifetime warranty remans, as well as new units on some applications. For the obvious reasons a new unit is not offered for the Z, but a lifetime reman is available. We changed suppliers for our reman electrical components about 2 years ago due to a high rate of failures. The new supplier has been much better quality but details are very vague about what actually gets replaced. Just thought it might be an interesting challenge to attempt but have no experience in rebuilding alternators. The commutator looks real nice, brushes still intact, bearings still free, but unit was covered in grime and the pulley pretty rusty. The last time this car was running according to the seller, as well as the inspection tag still on the window was 1996. 20 years of use and 20 years of sitting. Neither one a good option. Keep the helpful tips coming and I will continue to do some more research. Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC. Thankful to the LORD for sparing us from the main fury of the hurricane and praying to the LORD for those who lost so much due to the storm.

With all the years of owning vehicles and doing most of the repairs myself, I have never had an alternator apart. A trip to the local parts store to buy a remanufactured alternator and leaving the old one for the core has always been my solution. On the 78 Z resurrection project that is slowly progressing I believe it is the factory original alternator still with the vehicle. The blue label-INTERNAL REGULATOR-was still on the unit before spraying some degreaser on the alternator. Just thought it would be neat to keep the original unit with the car and was quite surprised to find the brush assy/ voltage regulator part still available as a separate part. The bearings are standard parts as well. I have the unit disassembled and pretty clean and looks as though there are just 3 solder joints to the regulator/ brush assy. Just looking for any tips or suggestions from the Z experts. Reman units are very inexpensive and hard to determine what exactly "REMANUFACTURED" means. Cleaned? New bearings? New brushes? or just a cleaning and a quick test to see if it is charging? Any help will be greatly appreciated, John-Lugoff, SC.

Finally got some time to finish off the heater box door due to a break in my baby sitting schedule-hurricane Florence cancelled school so our daughter was off from her work. A foam prefilter from a Briggs & Stratton lawnmower filter is almost the perfect size to fit the door. Some 3M adhesive as recommended earlier worked great on the foam and then wrapped the whole door and foam with black Gorilla Tape, just slightly compressing the foam. Had to do a little fine tuning with an X-acto knife and Dremel tool and the door seems to work smoothly and seals both directions. Thanks for all the tips. Slow progress will continue on the resurrection project. Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC.

I had to tweak my door I fabricated just a bit to get it close on both sides of the housing when pivoting. May not have gotten the screw holes drilled perfectly on the new door. I am sure some final adjustments will have to be made as well with the foam and vinyl material. Thanks again, John.

Thanks for the tip. I have always been very pleased with any 3M products I have used in the past. Unfortunately so many good tips come from failures we have made in the past. I have had no experience with headliners or hardly any upholstery work so it is always good to rely on great people willing to share their helpful insight. My crafty wife's foam is much too thick. A foam pre-filter from a Briggs & Stratton panel air filter may be just what is needed. Thanks again, John.

Thanks for the quick response. My great wife brought home some remnant pieces from Joann Fabrics yesterday. The backing is more like a felt material rather than the original foam. I may play with it a bit before heading off to work. Also I will have to pick up some headliner spray adhesive. This is one of those projects you want to do just one time. I am very pleased with the door fabrication and the forming of the round channel for the shaft to go through. It came out very nice considering the person who heated and hammered it into shape. Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC.

I have fabricated a new door in the heater box and repaired the original shaft with some weld and lots of grinding. It is all working pretty smoothly and want to cover the door with something similar to the foam/vinyl that was originally on the rusted away door. My great wife bought some padded vinyl from Joann Fabrics but not sure if that would be the best option. Any suggestions will be appreciated and also what adhesive works the best? Lots of different spray adhesives out there for headliners but I have never used any before. Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC.

The strange thing is that much of the blower fan housing looks almost as nice as the pictures from grannyknot but rusted out in a few areas. Hard to figure, but I will be spraying it with some rust converter followed by some primer and chassis epoxy paint.

As usual, BLASTER did it's job. Very slight persuasion with the pliers got the hinge and door moving freely. After rotating I was able to see 2 small Phillips head screws, or better stated, what was left of 2 Phillips head screws, attaching the door to the hinge pin. Some heat and patience got the screws removed and the shaft came out easily after removing the small E clips as suggested in the previous post. Unfortunately a new door will have to be fabricated and will have to source some type of foam covered with a vinyl material that was on both sides of a badly rusted door. The more difficult part may be the hinge pin. One section of it is 30-40% rotted away. That will be a project for another day. Keep the helpful tips coming, especially for what would be an available material suitable for covering the door. Thanks, John-Lugoff, SC.