Z Babe

Unfortunately, there isn't an easy answer to your problem. You might try the following: 1. Check the battery cables for corrosion, and make sure they are clean and tight. 2. Check the distributor, plugs, wires, coil and EFI to ensure that the wiring and connections are tight, and all are clean. Auto Zone sells a contact cleaner that works wonders. 3. If the car hasn't had a tune-up in a while, it would be a good idea to have that done (including spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, fuel and air filters, and set the timing). You might also try using a fuel cleaner additive to help remove any deposits and build-up from the intake valve and fuel injectors, and see if that solves the problem. 4. Check the ignition switch. Start the car and ensure that the ignition key is fully in the "on" position, then wiggle the key and see if the car stalls out. Also, keep doing this periodically while driving the car. If it stalls, then its probably a bad ignition switch. 5. Check the AFM. Unplug the AFM, and if the car runs okay (up to 1500 rpm's), then check the wiring going from the AFM to the ECU. Also, there is a contact on the AFM that sends a signal to the fuel pump. You might try lightly sanding the contact with fine sandpaper). Usually if the AFM is bad, it won't be an occasional, but a constant problem. 6. Check the FPR. Pull off the hose and turn the ignition key to the "on" position, but do not start the car. If gas spews out of the nipple, your FPR is probably bad, and needs to be replaced. 7. It could be that the coil or ignition module is bad, both of which can be affected by heat when they are damaged, causing the car to stall. However, I would do the steps above before replacing either of those.

Sorry, but I've never had an Optima battery, so I don't know the measurements, compared to my Die Hard battery.

PrOxLaMuS, since you "ran out of brake fluid": 1. Your loss of brake fluid could indicate a leak somewhere, so it would be a good idea to inspect the entire brake system for fluid leakage. 2. It is possible that you now have air in the brake lines. The brake warning light detects brake line pressure, and lights up when there is a 185-242 lb./sq. in. pressure difference between the front and rear brake systems. Also, the "squeaking noise" you're hearing could be caused from lack of brake fluid, due to air in the lines. You might try bleeding the brakes and see if the light goes off. If the light is still on, that could mean you have a bad master cylinder. And, Daniel's suggestions were also excellent.

You're welcome. And, yeah, that's a pic. of me. :classic:

Lookie here, guys! We have a new chick on the block. You think you can handle it? Welcome to the forum, Christa!

Oh, I would really love a Z32 vert! However, I haven't had a car payment for 15 years now, so I'd kind of like to keep it that way.

Oh, no, not at all. I totally agree that most women are like that (but not all of us -- ).

The Borg-Warner T-5, 5-speed tranny is interchangeable in all "L" series. From what I have read, the 81-86 ZXT's also came stock with a Borg-Warner T-5, 5-speed tranny, with the 87-89 ZXT's and 90-96 Z32TT's having the Nissan tranny. However, I've been told that the Z31/"L" series tranny conversion would require some modifications -- for what reason, I don't know, or whether this is true. I'm sure that Carl could answer that one though. I've also read that the shifter in the T5 is not interchangeable, but someone told me that the '90's Mustang 5.0 stock shifter will fit it, and supposedly works much better, however, you might have to modify your console because the angle of 1st, 3rd & 5th gears is about 2" closer to the dash than the stock shifter. Here's some links if you would like more info. on the T5: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/AandBtranny.htm http://home.att.net/~jason510/tranny_ratios.htm http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html http://www.zccw.org/Tech/Tranny/07-97ZTransmissions.html

ROFL ROFL That was pretty funny, George!!! You're right -- most women can't do all of those things. The ones I can't do are numbers: 16, 19 (I'm a beer person), 21, 33 and 37. BTW, what's an "SMS"?

The e-mail just came back as "undeliverable". Oh, well, I tried.

What an absolutely wonderful idea, Rick! I just sent Curtis an e-mail.

Oooo, I really like that billet holder, Jeff. Okay, Mark. When I get my tie down, I'll demo. it on my 240Z and post some pics. (if it's a good fit). Oh, and would you mind posting the measurements of your Optima battery, just so I can estimate the size difference in determining whether it would fit your car? Thanks.

:bunny: :bunny: :bunny:

Awe, your welcome. Wish I could find you one in Australia. Is there not a yunk yard around there somewhere that might have one? I know a lot of Z32 owners upgrade to the JWT ECU, but they usually keep their stock ECU's in the event of future problems or resale.

Awe, thank you, PrOxLaMuS. :wink:

Here ya go. http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/R200.htm

There's several companies that have the Z32 ECU you're looking for: http://www.used-auto-parts.net/cgi-bin/search.cgi It's listed under "Computer Box". :classic:

These were my favorites: Real Woman - Cure for headaches: Take a lime, mix it with tequila, chill and drink. You might still have the headache, but who cares? Real Woman - If you have a problem opening jars, go ask the very cute neighbor guy to do it. Real Woman - Don't throw out all that leftover wine. Leftover wine?? A good friend will come and bail you out of jail ... but, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying, "Damn ... that was fun!"

LMAO!! ROFL That was really funny, Keith!

It sounds like the problem is just a bushing. My ex pulled the tranny out of my L28E and put it into my L28, and it ended up with the same problem -- popping out of reverse. He said he just pulled the shift boot off and replaced a gear bushing.

I'm about to order this battery tie down from: http://www.splparts.com Is that not sharp, or what? :knockedou It says its for a Z32, but after chatting with a Z32 buddy of mine, I believe it will fit the other Z's, with the way it's designed. I'm going to order one for my 280ZX show car tomorrow (by phone -- Pay Pal is not my friend -- ). When it arrives, I can let you know if it fits my 240Z, if you want.

Kaminari makes two different styles (that I know of) for the 280Z. One is called a "Standard Air Dam", and the other a "5-Hole Air Dam. Here's a pic. of a 280Z with a 5-hole air dam: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/6125/images/zcars/zcar6.jpg This is a color pic. of the standard air dam (also posted by PrOxLaMuS©): http://www.zcarparts.com/images/gallery/Hostetler01.jpg

Welcome to the forum, Briman2021. I have some additional info. for your viewing pleasure, if you're eyes can handle it. This includes Z car history, specifications, differences, etc. http://www.mikepallonenissan.com/zhistory/photo.htm http://www.geocities.com/~z-car/specs/ http://www.zccw.org/ZHistory/Default.htm http://zhome.com/History/Zproduction.html http://www.zhome.com/History/DesignChanges.htm

From what I understand, the tripple Webers are extremely difficult to keep adjusted properly, and require a lot of patience. However, the gain, of course, much outweighs the stock SU's. I'm staying with the stock carbs. for that reason -- currently converting from the flat-top to the bell-top, however, my 240Z is not being used as a track car. If you don't mind the extra hassle and effort, then I think the Webers are the way to go for a track car. Anyway, that's just my 2¢.

Awe, I feel sorry for that poor guy on the other forum. :disappoin I joined that one just recently, and have yet to see even one moderator. Do they have any?