sweatybetty
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Everything posted by sweatybetty
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Site, frustrated is would be a good thing compared to how i feel right now. once again, thanks
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Zed,i cant get it to run smooth enough to get popping now.
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Mike, ive done that 7-8 times now. if i line up the dots, as shown in the fsm, and the article Site posted above, this is what i get. but, the rotor is pointed directly at #1 on the cap. ill try it again..............
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i know im missing something, i just cant figure out what. it just doesnt make sense. the engine was running perfectly and now it isnt. im going to feel like an idiot when i do get it
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ok, so this morning, i pulled the distributor drive shaft again and checked it against 2 others. no difference. i thought maybe the gear had slipped. put it all back together, lining up the dots and still come up with the drive tang in the wrong position, but, the rotor is pointed dead nuts #1. checked spark at the coil by turning the distributor, perfect. checked plug wire position. checked #1 at tdc. checked cam lobes on #1, pointing up, ready for exhaust stroke. timing pointer on tdc. everything checks out fine at tdc, but i cant get it to run without advancing the timing to maybe 60-70* btdc. here is a short clip. the white mark on the crank pulley is 40* btdc DSCN0216.AVI
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thank you Site.
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compression also depends on what camshaft you have. i have a long duration cam, and am only getting about 105lbs on a check, and am running about 9.8-1 compression, but all cylinders are even. here is a good link http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=68/category_id=13/mode=prod/prd68.htm
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thank you for the offer. i talked with him for close to an hour and i may just take a roadtrip up there.
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i have a feeling that this is possible. i tried installing the oil pump (with the marks lined up) 4 times tonight. every time it came out like shown in the picture above. i have another shaft that i will try tomorrow. on another note, i discovered that my brand new flame-thrower coil is putting out almost zero spark.
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checked them yesterday, dead nuts on
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this make sense now. the frustrating part is the pig was running fine when i first fired it up. that is why i am wondering if the drive gear on the shaft is pinned. maybe the pin sheared and the gear has moved a little?
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Chickenman, i am absolutely positive of the tdc and the timing pointer being in the correct posistion, that was checked with a dial micrometer during assembly. the block is an early l24. it has a very low serial number, so im assuming some one has replaced the original at some point. im going to pull the shaft again to-nite and try again im using a 90 amp denso alternator, that i moved to that spot. the factory spot was a little too "cluttered" for me
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finally spoke with Oliver, the owner. very interesting and knowledgeable (and funny) person. he still has the carpet kit available.
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ok, here are some pics. #1 at tdc rotor at #1 with distributor centered in adjustment range and distributor drive shaft off going to pull the oil pump again (for the 7th time) tomorrow and try to get the drive shaft in the correct position. im wondering if the drive gear on the shaft is held in place with a shear pin and maybe is moving?
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i will re-check that.
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thanks to you all!
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i did re-set the valve lash after posting here. my cam calls for .010 hot on both valves, so after the initial start-up and maybe 1 hour of run-time, i reset them at .008 cold. i think i may try going back to .010 cold.
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with everything at tdc, the rotor is pointing dead nuts to the correct cap terminal as shown in the fsm
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yes, yes and yes. new wires, cap and rotor. everything i have read on backfires, points to ignition. if i advance the timing to 35-40 degrees at idle, it runs fine..
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#1 piston at tdc, silver link on timing chain on #1 on sprocket, v-notch on cam sprocket lines up with the little line, timing mark on the crank pulley at 0*, and the rotor is centered on #1 plug wire with the distributor centered in it adjustment range. i cannot get this pig to run without back fire through the exhaust, unless i advance the timing to around 35-40 degrees at idle. with the timing set at 15* at idle, and i run the rpms from 2200 and up, i get continuous back-fire in the exhaust. any ideas?????????? ill post a video tomorrow thanks all sb
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i am looking for a kit that replaces the vinyl with carpet, in black, cut pile. so far, not much luck. this one on ebay looks fairly nice, but doesnt look to include the rear shock covers or wheel well pieces. anyone tried it? http://www.ebay.com/itm/REPLACEMENT-CARPET-KIT-FOR-1971-1974-DATSUN-240Z-260Z-BLACK-CUT-PILE-/400720872442?fits=Model%3A240Z&hash=item5d4cd343fa:g:aUQAAMXQ-KRRikhD&vxp=mtr thanks all sb
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it wont be long........."for only $25 a month, we will give you "ad-free" internet access"
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Swapping 280z wheels on my 240z with aftermarket 15 X 7 wheels
sweatybetty replied to Johnny wick's topic in Wheels & Brakes
it is your car. do what you want -
i bought one of those. i think you will like it
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ive been trying to get hold of someone there but no luck. their website shows a carpet kit that i want, but i would like more info on it before ordering. has anyone here dealt with them? thanks all sb
