sweatybetty

thanks guys. i have an order that i havent submitted yet, for the entire interior and wheels.

Devo? holy cow!!!

i use firefox, and i dont get any pop-ups or ads

wth is a digital taco?

Mike, any news on this? im going to place an order for most of my interior stuff in the next couple of days.

https://corvallis.craigslist.org/cto/6067675237.html

https://eugene.craigslist.org/cto/6060157158.html

doesnt look too bad https://roseburg.craigslist.org/cto/6061701281.html

thank you guys

is that a direct to metal primer, or epoxy?

have you tried freeze out (freeze off) yet? stuff works pretty good. i used it on my manifold studs, every one came out without snapping heres a link

i did a search, and from what i read, valve lash grows at operating temperature. my cam calls for .010 lash hot, so if i set it at .008 cold i should be ok? this is the first car ive had that needs lash adjustment and i want to be sure its right. as is, there is noticeable ticking. thanks all sb

$24650

i also replaced mine with the tabco. it did take some trimming to get the correct fit, but it looks and fits well

SOLD!!!!

fel-pro gaskets left over from my re-build. free to good home. send me a pm

ok, so here is my fix for the loose rotor. 8-32 set screw (2 for a quarter) with a little blue lock-tite. it does not move at all now, and only took about 3 minutes

+1

thank you both

what a crappy couple of days! i had the pig running, but didnt have any timing advance, el-cheapo trash plug wires from auto zone, and a loose rotor, a pos timing light that didnt work when i needed it to, and the distributor was 180* out!!! so i decided to pull the distributor and found the centrifugal weights were sticking. no problem. took it apart, lubed everything, and all was new. so i thought in the mean-time, since the distributor is 180* out, why not fix that, make it like it shows in all the books. i ended up pulling the oil pump 6 times before i found that lining up the little spot on the distributor drive shaft with the oil hole on the oil pump was wrong. doing so ended up 180* out. long story short, i now have everything lined up as shown in the fsm, but the rotor is 180* off, the car runs like a scalded ape, and i dont give a squat. my timing is set at close to 15* btdc at idle and runs up to about 37* at 2k rpms. sounds great. more to come...........its beer-thitry

so i found that my new distributor rotor is so loose it moves maybe 5 degrees back and forth. where can i get a high quality cap and rotor? im so sick and tired of the cheap imported garbage from some x-place shithole. im willing to pay for high quality stuff, but its harder than hell to find. sorry for the rant thanks all sb

Zed, im in the middle of this right now. with the distributor off by 1 tooth, there isnt enough adjustment either way to get total advance and base advance at the same time. switching plug wires over 1 hole gives the opposite problem. im going to pull the oil pump for the 3rd time tomorrow just to make sure its right. very aggravating!

its a great day to be sweaty!!!!!!! skip to about the 10 minute mark for the really good stuff. all the smoke is from the header wrap. DSCN0185.AVI

thanks. i made that out of 1/2" copper water pipe. it measures 5/8" od. as far as the oil psi threads, i didnt touch them. the metric threads are almost identical to 1/8" npt

i cant remember where i picked up that idea, but it worked for the guy who did it. im going to add a small valve that will allow me to limit the vacuum. if it doesnt work it will be easy enough to plug it off. worth a shot