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sweatybetty

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Everything posted by sweatybetty

  1. sweatybetty
    that looks good. what kind of epoxy is it?
  2. sweatybetty
    thank you!
  3. sweatybetty
    i have been coating screws and bolt heads with no scratching after tightening them down. between the electric charge and the baking, the powder seems to fuse into the metal somewhat.
  4. sweatybetty
    +1. there are colors very close to natural aluminum
  5. sweatybetty
    little more color last nite. going to try and get the hood done today
  6. sweatybetty
    Site, it is called tor-red. one of chryslers colors from the newer cars. im really liking the red-black
  7. sweatybetty
    got a little color on tonight bottom sides of the gas filler lid and inspection covers after the clear coat
  8. sweatybetty
    i prefer the valve in the engine compartment just because of possible leaks
  9. sweatybetty
    very nice
  10. sweatybetty
    i think its the same thing, just that eastwood put their own label on it
  11. sweatybetty
    you need a ground from the battery to the engine block, and one from the engine block to the body/frame. 8 gauge will work well, but make sure all connections are clean and tight. i would be willing to bet 85-90% of all electrical problems are loose connections/bad grounds
  12. sweatybetty
    that is where i am at with mine. both hoses and the control cable out the firewall. now to just find the correct valve.
  13. sweatybetty
    well, another small step forward today. the rear spoiler is painted. i debated for a couple of weeks between body color and black.......... prepped, primered, smoothed out, ready for color and the winner is............... this stuff actually works very well for a rattle can. it is a 2 stage paint with a very nice nozzle that sprays a pattern almost like a spray gun. once you activate the catalyst, the paint is only good for about 24 hours. i paid about $23 for the can, but a pint of regular paint would have cost that much. no clean-up of spray gun. i was able to put 4 coats on the spoiler including the bottom. came out very nice
  14. sweatybetty
    i am thinking the same thing. the notches on the old cam sprocket seem to line up with the dowel pin holes. shouldnt be too difficult to do
  15. sweatybetty
    i have found that when taking something like that apart, if you put it in a large, clear zip lock bag while doing so, the flying parts dont go very far.
  16. sweatybetty
    12 volts to the fuel pump when the ignition switch is in the "run" position. that is the most basic, simple answer there is
  17. sweatybetty
    what exactly are you trying to accomplish? something that looks cool, more power, or something that filters the air?
  18. sweatybetty
    my new chain kit came with a sprocket that does not the notch. iirc, it is a OSK brand. made in Japan.
  19. sweatybetty
    have you tried a local auto parts store? i wouldnt think they are anything special
  20. sweatybetty
    i agree
  21. sweatybetty
    my car #65002, which as far as i can figure, was built in 1/72, has the pockets for the seatbelts, and the retractors
  22. sweatybetty
    its like posting "bump"
  23. sweatybetty
    i would think $200-250 would be a fair price
  24. sweatybetty
    +1 this is good stuff. cover the inside of the sending unit and you should be good to go
  25. sweatybetty
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