sweatybetty

just used the cheap little brush that came with the kit. the por-15 is self-leveling

so, after 7 weeks of waiting for my gas tank, i just showed up at the guys shop. he hadnt touched it. oh well. here are some pics of before and after i got it cleaned, coated and installed in 2 days outside cleaned and ready for paint inside before cleaning after cleaning with 50-50 mix muratic acid and water outside painted with por-15. i only had a small can, so i got 2 coats on the top, and 1 on the bottom. drying the tank before sealing the inside. you have to have the tank 100% dry or the sealer wont stick i found this sealer at oreilley parts. $32 a quart. the directions say 1 quart will do up to a 12 gallon tank. i bought 2 and dumped 1 1/2 in the tank just to be sure of a thorough coating. after draining the extra, i ended up with 1 full quart extra. here is after coating and letting dry over-night. if you cant smell any fumes, its dry enough to install new sending unit and vent tube. the vent tube is the one that goes up to the filler neck. all the others are now plugged finally done

i dont see anything on the electrical schematic showing a voltage regulator for a 72. did they have one in the early 70's?

lube it anyways. it wont hurt.

just dont forget to put the fitting on the tubing before doing the flare. been there, done that

looks nice

thanks. im bored right now. im waiting on the head to get done so i can get this thing fired up and out of my shop. i get it out, then i can get back to painting. i get the painting done, then i can start on the interior. it never ends................

yep, i would like to put it in the 240. keep me in mind

a little more i got my rocker arms back from delta cams, very nice. $50 plus my shipping to them sill plates after some metal work and sand blasting. they were in bad shape. they should look ok after sanding down the ridges and high spots outside upper door trim. tweaker paint now removed and all the scratches sanded out. look 100% better. but i may still go for new

my 2 cents.... you need some sealer where the main cap meets the block, between the side seal and the crank case, just like the pic you posted.

+1 very easy to bend and flare. i bought mine at carquest for about $40 for a 25' roll. i used about 1 1/2 rolls + the new fittings

slide some rubber fuel line and a couple of hose clamps over the cut and clamp them down.

that would make a bad-arse sleeper

like the one that doesnt have the tape on it.

oreilleys has lash pads??????

please keep me in mind

no, butt i love the pic

funny how a simple (to me) question, opens up so many answers

that looks sweet! im debating adding one myself. i love the looks, but i have read that these cars dont need the down-force in the rear

are either of the clocks for sale?

im looking for a #45 auxiliary venturi for a weber 40 dcoe 18. send me a pm if you have one. thanks

hello all. i need an auxillary venturi (#45) for a weber 40 dcoe 18. send me a pm if you have one. thanks all

no, i plan on plugging everything on the tank except the pickup line and the one that goes to the filler neck. vapor tank is gone.

not much happening lately. im still waiting on my head to get done, and the fuel tank (going on 6 weeks). so, im getting a few of the little things done my new cam has holes for oiling so i tapped and plugged the holes in the cam towers. 6mm set screw with blue locktite, and a cap over that just in case got the hood hinges powder-coated and installed temperature sending unit and thermo-couple switches in the lower radiator hose here is something i just happened to notice. these are the throttle arms off of the webers. 2 were the same length, but the 3rd was a bit longer. i bet that could cause some problems with tuning i finally found the correct neutral safety switch. this is a normally closed switch. it came from virginia. supposedly the only one in the usa new overflow tank and fuel pressure regulator and gauge

i have a few. just got rid of 8 or 9 planes. they were too slow