sweatybetty

more pictures please!

is there any way to determine if the engine is correct for the car by the engine id number if the tag is missing. i guess what i mean is, for example, would car #'s hls3025000 through hls3026000 have engine # xxxxx through xxxxx? im trying to be fairly certain that my car has the original engine, but there is no tag. did nissan use these engines in other cars or just the Z's? thanks all sb

i cant tell you how many hours i spent reading. for me, the practice was in the epoxy and primer which paid off. i used a base/clear and it came out pretty darn good for my second paint job. only a little orange peel and some dust. everything should polish out very nice

orange peel is a result of too low pressure at the tip of your gun. it only takes a couple psi to make the difference. i hope this helps paint problems

if the keepers are in the grooves on the valve, and the spring is staying where it is supposed to, then you should be good to go.

post your question here http://www.autobody101.com/forums/ and do a bunch of reading. there are a bunch of great guys there and more info than you will ever need

those covers do look nice. how are they attached to the car? i would like to use some but i dont want to drill any holes.

these pics are of the fuse holders that will hold auto-reset circuit breakers. one holds a 50 amp fuse that is the main power from the battery. the other feeds the head and tail lights

here is a new fuse block that is going to be used for some accessories such as the power antenna. i could have bought a harness with more circuits, but that was an extra $75. i think this block was $15+/-. this gets fed from the ignition switch "accessory" wire. sorting out the different ignition wires and brake light power. i changed from the original so now the brake lights are not connected with the turn signals. all connections are crimped and have 2 layers of heat shrink tubing over them. here are the new antennae wire, power antennae feed and the control wire from the radio. the black and white wires go to the dome light. what a pita fishing those wires up there was!!

ok, here goes. first, i was able to get a new ignition switch and lock cylinder from my local carquest. the key is like the originals, whereas the the others i have seen were not replacing the lock is fairly simple. remove the outer trim ring by tapping it from the back with a screwdriver and small hammer. the inner ring takes some prying with a screwdriver and was a little harder, but it needs to come off, it covers the pin that holds the cylinder in place. pry the pin out, and the cylinder pulls right out. put the new cylinder in, push the pin back in and re-install the trim rings. i havent done that yet because im going to powder coat them. here is the wiring plug that attaches to the ignition switch. i moved some of the wires to different terminals to try to match the new wire colors. you will notice the purple is to the starter solenoid, i have since removed it to avoid drawing too many amps through the switch, and added a relay.

i will try to remember to document as much as i can. my problem is i get so deep into it i forget to take pics as i go

I do not know yet where they are made but i will find out tomorrow. The ignition switch has a short in the start circuit, and the key pulls out of the lock in any position. I have always had good luck with Standard brand.

yes, perfectly ok

So, while re-wiring my 72, i found that both the ignition switch and the lock cylinder are bad. After looking at all the vendors and ebay it seems they all sell the same chinese re-pops. The lock cylinders dont have the correct keys. But, alas, there is hope!!! Standard part # US-169L and US120, and both are available. I should have them tomorrow from my local parts store and i will update in my rebuild thread. amazon has them both here http://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=sx_as?keywords=ignition+switch&rh=n%3A15684181%2Ck%3Aignition+switch&qid=1463494332&vehicle=1972-67-2284-20-----14492------1-1

i am eliminating as many as possible, although, i think that i will use new ones between the harness and dash so the dash can be unplugged and removed easily if needed.

my bad. i was thinking another type of kill switch. the one pictured does only kill power to the coil.

i dont think the fuse box is water proof, but im not too concerned with that where it is. as far as the old harness, some of it will be cut and spliced to integrate the new with the old which is turning into somewhat of a challenge it amazes me that these cars even ran with all the extra wires (why run 4 when 7 will work even better) and connectors. no wonder so many owners have problems. and, no, there is no kill switch

that is plain old electrical tape. easy enough to remove or replace if i need to

WOW! that is bright!

i still have a few things to do, and a couple of things that i forgot, like the power antenna wiring, but everything looks like it should work better than new

headlight relays

new wiring harness finally arrived. i have a feeling im going to get flamed a bit, but while im out driving and you are sitting in the garage trying to figure out electrical problems................ i first found this place http://kwikwire.com/ when chasing electrical problems on my power wagon. $300 and a few days later, i had a new-like truck. anyhow, here are a few pics 14 circuits, plenty of wire and every wire is marked to where it goes

cant you just pull the distributor up a bit and turn the rotor 180*? older Chryslers are that way. they look the same as the picture

is that switch panel to the left of the fuse cover factory?

http://arizonabrake.com/ i recently tore my booster apart (72 z) and was surprised to find that the seal was a bendix brand. i just happened to have a new one that was identical to the one i removed. iirc, there are 2 sizes and i ordered them both to make sure i got the right one.