sweatybetty

the push-rod isn't attached to the disc. it just sits in a hole. you can pull the push rod out of the booster simply by pulling it and the rubber seal straight out. here is a pic of the booster taken apart.

looks nice.

you might try putting the m.c. in place and pushing the pedal until you feel it touch the piston, then adjust as necessary. also check the pin that holds the pedal to the rod. mine was worn almost halfway through, and the hole in the pedal was oval-ed also. that could account for the difference without any adjustment of the rod end.

this is the video i was referring to. there is some foul language

thanks guys. i ordered the springs only from the guy on ebay, and the struts from summit racing. ended up saving about $50 after the rebate on the struts

http://roseburg.craigslist.org/cto/5528783506.html

there is a tread somewhere about using some common chemical that eats steel but not aluminum. alum? maybe?

think of buying these. im not racing, just looking for a nice street ride http://www.ebay.com/itm/KYB-4-SHOCKS-LOWERING-GERMAN-SPRINGS-fits-NISSAN-DATSUN-240Z-70-71-72-73-260Z/311009549336?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D36213%26meid%3D061ad76cede44778b8eb690a9462e7cc%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D311539357094 opinions? thanks all sb

take lots of pictures

this kind of sounds like they know their filters dont catch small stuff The K&N PreCharger® filter wrap is specially designed to extend the service interval of your K&N Filtercharger filter when used in very dusty conditions. They are made from durable polyester material containing a uniform weave. The PreCharger will stop small dirt particles with minimal restriction to the airflow of the filter

more than likely the belts are rotten and it wont work. but, there is hope! http://www.vintage-electronics.com/ http://www.marrscommunications.com/pioneer-cassette-belts and help http://www.tapeheads.net/forums.php?s=c764cb5f815e0f881d768b44fcf41de9

brake line replacement. i covered some of the tubing with 7/32" vacuum tubing where it is close to metal. maybe protect it from wear. this is a copper type of brake line. VERY easy to work with. easy to bend without kinking. i think i paid $44 for a 25 foot roll

well t has warmed up and all the bugs are back, so no more paint for now. i have started on replacing all the brake lines. i got the front brake tubing ran and the found that in order to do the rear line, i needed to pull out all the rear suspension. so..... and that led to dis-assembly. cut-off wheel in a grinder and a few whacks with a bfh, and done! then the struts. these are koni 82r-1812. they look like they have been in there a while and the sticker looks old-fashioned. any ideas as to how old they may be?

there was a little, maybe 2 tablespoons full if that much. to open it up, i clamped a pair of vice grips on the stamped "V" that locks the 2 halves together. then i put a crescent wrench on the vice grips and twisted. this "undid" the "V" and and the 2 halves popped apart with a small whack of a hammer. my thinking is this: if it IS broke, try fixing it, you got nothing to lose, and you learn something. if you do fix it, you are $$$ ahead.

thats the one. thank you el mucho grande!

to the guy that makes the engine bay and door post vin plates. im not having any luck thanks all sb

my car is an early 72. there is nothing there now, so i am not sure what i am missing. i did see 1 picture that called it a "proportioning valve" and 1 of the vendors sells a rebuild kit for it, but im not convinced its anything more than a tee.

i wonder if a regular rubber tire patch would work?

i have a switch that i dont need. it doesnt move, but you are welcome to it if you like.

nice car!

i did check it. 100 times better! the rubber was in great condition, and i had a new rubber seal for the pushrod. i did apply a bead of the silicone around the outer rim before putting it back together and used those bar clamps to hold everything in place. i do believe that there needs to be a small amount of leakage on the brake pedal side to allow the pedal to come back up. what i found is that when you press the pedal, it moves maybe a 1/16th of an inch before contacting the "piston" i think there is a rubber seal in there that seals when you press and opens when you let off. there is also a felt washer in there that i think is to make it quiet. im not 100% sure, but i think thats how it works.

yesterday i started to repaint the brake booster and found that it had a leak. so a tear-down of that and some new paint and good as new! the hardest part was getting it opened up. once that was done, a couple of cans of brake cleaner, some sand blasting time, and everything looked like new here is the rubber diaphragm the leak was between it and the black "piston" a little black silicone sealer and the leak is fixed all back together and fresh paint. i also added a vacuum check valve, this way i can eliminate the in-line factory valve. it is kind of hard to see, but it is on the lower right where the hose fitting was

this is the valve (tee) above the rear end. for a 72 240 thanks all

hello all. i am now concentrating on things other than paint. wiper linkage was junk, but has now been fixed. if you would like details send me a pm. here are a couple of pics