sweatybetty

you're not the only one

thank you all

delete

on the top of the fender, between the windshield and front edge of the inspection cover, is this flat or should there be a slight crown to it? both of mine are flat, but it just doesnt look right thanks all sb

i think the 200 degrees is referring to the solder commonly used for household plumbing. i used silver-solder for mine. i cant recall the melting point, but it is WAY above anything your car will ever see

im going to toss out an idea. i wonder id maybe the tailpipe/muffler is plugged

mine aftermarket gaskets fit just fine

this may be a stupid question, but are you using nozzle dip?

the ballast resistor does not need to be grounded. loose is ok

if the main wire feeding your fuseblock is too small, then yes. it doesnt matter how big the alternator is, if the wire is too small to carry the total load, you will have problems. you might think of adding a second fuse block that feeds the add-on goodies. also keep in mind that clean, tight, corrosion-free connections and grounds will help.

whats the blue thing downline from the prop valve?

any members here from lakeside? ive seen a nice z car twice now, once in north bend, and once in lakeside. iirc, it was silver with a jap flag on the drivers side fender

what about a solenoid set-up that locks the throttle in the idle position?

that is a copper pipe coupling with the brass fittings brazed on. one fitting is for the temperature gauge, and the other controls the electric fans

getting a little more color on. here is the hatch after a 2nd coat of clear, and cut and buffed. i am getting quite a bit of dust in the clear coat, so i end up sanding down with 1500 then 2000, then rubbing compound and polishing compound. looks very nice hatch after sanding, cut and buff installed passengers door ready for the 2nd coat of clear, which just got sprayed tonight.i should have it cut and buffed tomorrow

either way, as long as the surface is clean. that makes for a good bond. i did it after sandblasting, between the epoxy coat and primer.

nailed it! +1

i guess my question is this how big of an alternator do you really need? big stereo system or lighting system may require big amps. just curious

CO, you beat me to it. i had beer blowing out my nose when i read that

another thing that makes a world of difference in noise, you can see it in the 2nd picture, i used body seam sealer in that gap where the black and red meet. it glues the 2 parts together stopping rattles. i also did this inside the doors between the "crash bar" and outer skin. the doors sound very solid now

i dont have the car finished yet, so i cant say yes or no.

hood got some color today. a few spots of dust, but otherwise it came out good inside edges inside center masked and ready for bed liner. this hood had been danced on, so every little dent and ding would have shown if i had painted it body color. you can see some of the wave-i-ness (sp?) in the center. the black bed liner has a texture and hides all the imperfections. it should also help to deaden noise and the top-side

my springs were more pink than red also

that looks good. what kind of epoxy is it?

thank you!