sweatybetty

looking at trading a 90 cherokee for this https://corvallis.craigslist.org/cto/5623236749.html im wondering what your average 280 is worth thanks all sb

would the USA and Canada distributors be different than Japan?

whats the trans fluid do?

when all else fails.................

if you have an air compressor, you might try pressurizing the tank. it may help popping the dents out. just cover your nuts.

very nice!

thanks

im not seeing anything either

i finally found a dash, so i now have all the dash wiring done. i ended up with 2 connectors near the left fresh air vent with a total of 9 wires feeding the gauges and lights. the only other connector is for the heater.

is there supposed to be some sort of cap on the differential vent? thanks all sb

you can also use hot-shot or 409-a. if you use 409-a, use around 10% less then r-12

stupid question, what is a reputation score?

looks nice.

anyone ever try CLR? i wonder if you mixed up some of that and let it sit for a couple of days?

unhook the wire on the - side of the coil, then use a jumper wire from the - side of the coil to a good ground. it should spark when you touch it to ground and then pull it away

i agree. i was able to find good tape locally, but the type the factory uses i would have to order on-line. seems like everything is going that way. order it, pay shipping and then wait. hopefully, i never have to dig into this harness and deal with that stick mess.

the inline fuse is, i think, the best solution since there is no fuse in the main panel except for the headlights, which in turn feeds the parking-tail lights. i could have added another small fuse block but that would put it up under the dash, which is something im trying to avoid. to me, these do what i need, are easily accessible and they have this cool little light that comes on if the fuse blows.

yes

all most done with this conversion. had to find a new parking brake cable housing before going any further. here is the cable re-routed and clamped to the body lines up nicely. just need to modify the brackets a bit

well, i now have the major part of the wiring done, and everything works integrating the old and new was the biggest challenge. wipers, turn signals, heater and headlights all work as they should. some more pics here are a couple of pics of what is left over of the original harness. look at all those connectors! heater, radio,back up lights, e-flasher and neutral switch wiring close the back up and neutral switch wiring go through this rubber plug in the trans tunnel. the ground wires are for the wipers. i am going to install a ground stud there so i have room for those radio ground wires also under the column. still need to tidy this up. just making sure everything works first. the new harness does not have a fuse for the tail lights, so i had to add an in-line fuse. i cant recall what the other one is for. steering column wiring all hooked up and working. main power supply and headlight circuit breakers installed. these are auto reset. the main is a 50amp and the headlights 30amp. about $12 each

very nice

appears to be in eugene oregon http://eugene.craigslist.org/cto/5600135085.html

yes it does.

thanks for the link. it appears that i have a late 1970 L24. the # is 15770, which falls into that time frame.

too much beer to catch fish is too much beer