sweatybetty

let me do a bit of searching. i ordered one of them a while back for my pickup. just cant recall who from

9

it may have been there, but i dont recall having the option. maybe the package was too heavy for the usps. it was just over 70 pounds. i did get front rotors and a bearing kit as well

one thing i forgot to mention. the vendor says that you need 15" wheels. from what i can see, the 14x6 wheels will work but the stick on type weights will probably hit the caliper. i will try to post some pics

so, i now have working brakes after the rear conversion and a couple of leak repairs everything is good! all new calipers, bearings and rotors. i have new cable and stops for the parking brake cable on the way, so i hope to have that done next week. then i can get the diff and short shafts back in. that should be the end of the suspension. next up: new wiring harness

bad ground, loose connection, or corrosion. these 3 things are the cause of 95% of electrical problems

im going to re-neg my previous post after looking at it again, what i did was re-wire so 12v runs to the switch, through the resistor, through the motor and then to ground. iirc, the factory used the switch to direct the ground.

that id plate looks too nice for its age

sorry for taking so long to give out the details. i will try to keep this short and sweet. my first impression is this the parts are fine, except for the rebuilt calipers (south of our border) one was missing the parking brake end bracket. that cost me another $5 plus time going to the wrecking yard and finding and pulling it. everything fits and works. the vendor not so good instructions are non-existant the flex hoses look new, but the date stamp on the is over 20 years old (see pic) i have no idea what these parts are if i need to replace one of them, what did they come from? they sent the parts fed-ex, signature required. that would have been nice to know in advance. it ended up costing me another $160 for my wife to stay home to sign for the delivery because of lost work. FED-EX SUCKS!!!!!! probably the biggest thing...............after spending $600+, the there wasnt even a thank you for your purchase, just a receipt.

sorry. it sounded like you just started.

sorry. it sounded like you just started.

mistake

duct tape a 3 foot piece of pipe to that handle and y'all can get some leverage, Bubba

never thought of that! have to give it a try one of these days

im going to throw in my 2 cents worth, gained from here http://www.autobody101.com/forums/ and from experience gained from just painting my car. SLOW DOWN! if you want it to look good SLOW DOWN. if you are just doing a flip, then by all means go for it. 600 is too smooth (IMO) for proper adhesion. do a little reading before spending a lot of money on paint. my 2 cents worth

i found the same thing with mine

did you buy new or used?

maybe one of these sites or not. but hopefully get you in the right direction http://www.manualsonline.com/ http://www.stereomanuals.com/ http://freeservicemanuals.info/en/?page=3&sort=typea&search=&sorttype=asc&brand=Pioneer

why not file down the metal choke tang instead? much easier

im a bit confused now. from what i could find, my car, #65002, has a mfr date of 1-72. now i have found this http://zhome.com/IZCC/ZRegisters/VintageZ.htm which shows #66068 as a mfg date of 2-71. so what do i go by? there is no door post tag on my car. thanks all sb

the short answer is no. leave the guidecoat, fill with whatever you are using and sand. repeat if necessary. also, buy yourself one of those el-cheapo 4 foot florescent lights that you can lay on the floor and move around as needed. they help a lot.

maybe try posting that question here. very helpful people http://www.autobody101.com/forums/

bolts are coming. thank you. another question. what keeps the pads from rattling around on the pins? do they get glued to the pistons? or? thanks all sb

i just replaced mine with the same kit, and had the same problem. it took some work, but i was able to force everything together without and modification. i ended up getting one side started, and then, using a putty knife as a lever, force it together with a BFH. if you need to take some off, do as little as possible

i just replaced mine with the same kit, and had the same problem. it took some work, but i was able to force everything together without and modification. i ended up getting one side started, and then, using a putty knife as a lever, force it together with a BFH. if you need to take some off, do as little as possible