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sweatybetty

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Everything posted by sweatybetty

  1. sweatybetty
    you might try putting the m.c. in place and pushing the pedal until you feel it touch the piston, then adjust as necessary. also check the pin that holds the pedal to the rod. mine was worn almost halfway through, and the hole in the pedal was oval-ed also. that could account for the difference without any adjustment of the rod end.
  2. sweatybetty
    this is the video i was referring to. there is some foul language
  3. sweatybetty
    thanks guys. i ordered the springs only from the guy on ebay, and the struts from summit racing. ended up saving about $50 after the rebate on the struts
  4. sweatybetty
    http://roseburg.craigslist.org/cto/5528783506.html
  5. sweatybetty
    there is a tread somewhere about using some common chemical that eats steel but not aluminum. alum? maybe?
  6. sweatybetty
    think of buying these. im not racing, just looking for a nice street ride http://www.ebay.com/itm/KYB-4-SHOCKS-LOWERING-GERMAN-SPRINGS-fits-NISSAN-DATSUN-240Z-70-71-72-73-260Z/311009549336?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D36213%26meid%3D061ad76cede44778b8eb690a9462e7cc%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D311539357094 opinions? thanks all sb
  7. sweatybetty
    take lots of pictures
  8. sweatybetty
    this kind of sounds like they know their filters dont catch small stuff The K&N PreCharger® filter wrap is specially designed to extend the service interval of your K&N Filtercharger filter when used in very dusty conditions. They are made from durable polyester material containing a uniform weave. The PreCharger will stop small dirt particles with minimal restriction to the airflow of the filter
  9. sweatybetty
    more than likely the belts are rotten and it wont work. but, there is hope! http://www.vintage-electronics.com/ http://www.marrscommunications.com/pioneer-cassette-belts and help http://www.tapeheads.net/forums.php?s=c764cb5f815e0f881d768b44fcf41de9
  10. sweatybetty
    brake line replacement. i covered some of the tubing with 7/32" vacuum tubing where it is close to metal. maybe protect it from wear. this is a copper type of brake line. VERY easy to work with. easy to bend without kinking. i think i paid $44 for a 25 foot roll
  11. sweatybetty
    well t has warmed up and all the bugs are back, so no more paint for now. i have started on replacing all the brake lines. i got the front brake tubing ran and the found that in order to do the rear line, i needed to pull out all the rear suspension. so..... and that led to dis-assembly. cut-off wheel in a grinder and a few whacks with a bfh, and done! then the struts. these are koni 82r-1812. they look like they have been in there a while and the sticker looks old-fashioned. any ideas as to how old they may be?
  12. sweatybetty
    there was a little, maybe 2 tablespoons full if that much. to open it up, i clamped a pair of vice grips on the stamped "V" that locks the 2 halves together. then i put a crescent wrench on the vice grips and twisted. this "undid" the "V" and and the 2 halves popped apart with a small whack of a hammer. my thinking is this: if it IS broke, try fixing it, you got nothing to lose, and you learn something. if you do fix it, you are $$$ ahead.
  13. sweatybetty
    thats the one. thank you el mucho grande!
  14. sweatybetty
    to the guy that makes the engine bay and door post vin plates. im not having any luck thanks all sb
  15. sweatybetty
    my car is an early 72. there is nothing there now, so i am not sure what i am missing. i did see 1 picture that called it a "proportioning valve" and 1 of the vendors sells a rebuild kit for it, but im not convinced its anything more than a tee.
  16. sweatybetty
    i wonder if a regular rubber tire patch would work?
  17. sweatybetty
    i have a switch that i dont need. it doesnt move, but you are welcome to it if you like.
  18. sweatybetty
    nice car!
  19. sweatybetty
    i did check it. 100 times better! the rubber was in great condition, and i had a new rubber seal for the pushrod. i did apply a bead of the silicone around the outer rim before putting it back together and used those bar clamps to hold everything in place. i do believe that there needs to be a small amount of leakage on the brake pedal side to allow the pedal to come back up. what i found is that when you press the pedal, it moves maybe a 1/16th of an inch before contacting the "piston" i think there is a rubber seal in there that seals when you press and opens when you let off. there is also a felt washer in there that i think is to make it quiet. im not 100% sure, but i think thats how it works.
  20. sweatybetty
    yesterday i started to repaint the brake booster and found that it had a leak. so a tear-down of that and some new paint and good as new! the hardest part was getting it opened up. once that was done, a couple of cans of brake cleaner, some sand blasting time, and everything looked like new here is the rubber diaphragm the leak was between it and the black "piston" a little black silicone sealer and the leak is fixed all back together and fresh paint. i also added a vacuum check valve, this way i can eliminate the in-line factory valve. it is kind of hard to see, but it is on the lower right where the hose fitting was
  21. sweatybetty
    this is the valve (tee) above the rear end. for a 72 240 thanks all
  22. sweatybetty
    hello all. i am now concentrating on things other than paint. wiper linkage was junk, but has now been fixed. if you would like details send me a pm. here are a couple of pics
  23. sweatybetty
    gee, thanks. you have a real gift of belittling. sorry if my spelling and grammar are not up to your standards
  24. sweatybetty
    strip the car and take it to a sandblaster. then you will find out what needs to be fixed.if you are gonna do it, do it right. my 2 cents
  25. sweatybetty
    great idea. that would certainly be possible. i didnt think of that before doing this fix, so the set screws are not accessible.
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