jalapenobusiness

OKay! Thanks for all of your guys' suggestion. I did take them into account. It seems like it was a bad battery connection. The buttplug for the negative terminal was not seated correctly. It is running now. However....It is quite rough when driving. When in 1st gear, it jolts/surges a lot. It gets smoother as you transition up gears. Now, I am providing you with a video of how the engine is operating. It idles nicely, but as you gas it it seems to struggle. ANy thoughts on this?

Being that my car started before would mean I am getting fuel, right? I wouldnt see what the problem is now if it wouldnt start. I had just replaced every fusible links so I am assuming they are still good to go. After replacing them, it would still only crank. The fuel gauge will be my next mission. However, wouldnt the car need to be running to get an accurate fuel pressure reading? Sorry about the vagueness. The car was running perfectly before I stored her for a year. The only issue was the radiator fluid that she would rip every once in a while. I did drain the fuel that was left over in the car. I dropped the tank and washed it will acid/base etc.. The firing order should be correct because when the car was operational I made notes of the routes of the wires. When I replaced the cap and rotors, I replaced them one by one. I think you are right on this. The car was running beautifully but after she sat for a year, it became difficult. I will check for sparks. If my wires and cap and rotors are new, what would be the reason why I wouldnt be getting sparks?

How would I go about checking fuel pressure? Nothing smelled burned atm. I had checked only the fusible links which I had just replaced. The fusebox, located on the right foot side of the passenger, seemed okay. I had a bottle of liquid starter and sprayed them in each spark plug entry (removing them and spraying starter fluid directly into the port that the spark plugs go into.) The first crank it tried to start but fail. After that, the car just cranks and would not start.

Hi Mark Maras, The spark would be less than 6 inches high. When the socket wrench touch the nut on the positive terminal, that was when it sparked. I had replaced the fusible links for the alternator/ignition relay, switch and EFI relay (1977 datsun- located to the right of the batter on the passenger side.) and the car still will not run. It just cranks. It was able to start before all this happened.

Hi CZC! Long time lurker and first time poster. I have much enjoyed the content that is provided here on CZC forums. I am in a pickle however. Long story short. My 280z was placed in the garage for nearly a year. I am trying to get her running smoothly. When I crank the car, the car will run roughly (as if some cylinders were not firing.) My car would shake all over the place. A friend told me that it was mis firing so I did the easiest and most common things first and that was to replace the spark plugs, spark wires, cap and rotor. After installing all the said things, it ran and idled under 1000 rpms after gassing the car for maybe 5 mins (still rough shaking...). Now, here is the weird part. I turned off my car in attempt to screw the battery on tightly (i left it loose). I approached the battery with my wrench and sparks flew from the positive terminal. Boy... did I have to change my underwear... I detached the battery cables and then reconnected them in positive then negative fashion. The car will now only crank....It wont start. My friend assumed that I short circuited a fuse when I made the battery spark but I couldnt tell where to start. Any suggestions as to how to approach this dilemma? Best, Jalapeno Business