tibZ

Hi Folks, i'm finally back on my 73 Z resto after a year off replacing the roof on my house and a complete paint job last summer. (developed a leak and one thing led to another). I've decided to do all the cutting and welding myself so I bought a Lincoln mig welder and have done alot of practicing and I'm ready to get after it. My question is about the panel behind the doglegs that sandwiches behind the rocker panel end and the dogleg. Right side was completely gone and left side is mostly there but i need to trim off some of it. Does anyone sell the panel or do I have to make one myself? I have the doglegs and rockers from tabco, just wondering about this other panel, i know I have to put something back in there. Thanks.

I bought my floors,rockers and doglegs from Tabco also. Hope to have them installed this year. They are not flimsy reproductions. High Quality in my opinion.

Battery trays' come up all the time on Ebay. For your metal parts contact Charlie Osbourne at Zedd Findings.

Good advice coming through this thread. Judging by the comments I think I will stick with the rubber bushings when I get to the suspension rebuild. Our roads here in Ma. are horrible, plus I'll only be doing summer driving. Does anyone out there offer a complete rubber suspension set? Mike

Looks good E. Did you do that yourself or hire someone?I am thinking about trying that out for my next step. I have taken the heavy stuff off with alot of elbow grease and I was going to blast it next with glass bead. Do you prefer the soda? I have read there is a special bath you have to do before paint. Mike

Shelby Cal 500 on my 73.

Welcome to the club Squeeks, nice present!! Are you in Spangdahlem by any chance? My son was there for a couple years around 2001. Your car looks exactly like my first Z in 1977.... Mike

Keep an eye on ebay, they show up now and then. I bought a donor section last fall, mint codition with plenty of overlapping area all around. I think I paid $80., but I figured it was cheaper than paying someone to fabricate one since I don't weld. Mike

If you look closely at the ZTherapy website it says "call to order, we do not offer online ordering" Call Bruce, you'll be glad you did.

Talk to Eiji at Datsun Spirit, he has engine bolt kits in the yellow zinc coating, I bought a set last year, like you said, they really dress up the engine.

Order the carb video from Bruce at ZTherapy, best minor investment you can make. Mike

I don't remember the last time I passed a Z on the road.................

I'll take you up on your offer Arne, could you put tibZ down in Gloucester, Mass. (In one of the quarries?)

My last car, 69 Mustang, 351W 4 speed

Has anyone seen this sellers list of NOS parts? Very pricey but you don't see many of these parts around anywhere.... http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/rj77777?_rdc=1

I think as long as they work (fit) and have not been mis-represented they can be a good thing depending on the application. If you have a rare Z, early, I would think you would want to stick with NOS. The plus side is they are generally less money.

Here is one for the left (drivers) side. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=320348982940

For what it's worth, I have had good luck so far with this vendor,they sell a CSF radiator and list an auto and a manual model. http://catalog.autohausaz.com/autohausaz/detailw.jsp?sid=jh041ujbzqomkt55bbqbrm55&partner=autohausaz&year=1973&make=NI&model=240-Z-001&category=G1000&part=Radiator

Thanks for the tip John, But as Arne stated they don't seem to carry the 3 screw style. Good prices too. If I go through with this I will mainly be looking to recoup my stock/shipping costs. we all would love to get paid for the hours of labor we put into these "toys", never going to happen. I'm not looking to make a ton of money, as long as I have to make a set for myself I may as well make a few spares and see what I can get for them. I may throw a set on ebay to see what happens then set a lower price here to return the favor of all the help I have gotten on this site.

I would agree with that Bruce. You could also mill a slot between the two holes on the gasket surface.

The answer is no. I have 3 screw carbs with an E88 manifold. I stuck a drill into the manifold waterline from the thermostat side and it does not go past the first inlet to the carb so the water will in fact be blocked from that point on. I have seen debates on both sides as to whether we actually need to run water through the intake manifold, I guess it's personnel preference. I don't have any reasons not to run water through mine so I will keep mine operational. Mike I am going to price materials the coming week and mill up a couple sets of spacers. Should take a week or two. Since mine will not be running for the next year or so anyone want to volunteer to try out the first set?

Thanks Bruce, maybe I'll make up a few sets of each and take it from there. I'll look into that water experiment this weekend too. Mike

here is another good site to help you through the process. It is very important to keep all your valvetrain parts in the order in which they come out. Look at them as "matched sets" that cannot be inter-changed. There is a big difference between valve guides and valve bushings. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ Mike

Thanks for the feedback. Can I assume the only difference between the 3 screw and the 4 screw is the water holes? If that is the case i could leave them as blanks and leave it up to the user to decide whether to add the water holes, it would be as simple as marking the holes with the gasket and drilling them out i would think. Scott, welcome to the site, and what exactly is UMHW? never mind i found it...UHMW (Ultra-High Molecular Weight) Polyethylene That could be an option, do you know off hand what it cost per sq/ft? Mike

Hi Guys, I'm thinking of re-producing the Phenolic material spacers between the carbs and the manifolds. Mine have several cracks near the water holes, I'm sure they will leak if I put them back on as they are.I asked Bruce at ZTherapy when I ordered my rebuild kit for my carbs if he sold them and he said no one does. He recommended filling the water holes with epoxy because I really don't need water going into the carbs. Since I have access to a CNC Milling machine I was thinking of machining up a few sets and see if there is any interest. Several factors would come into play. #1 If I could use a less expensive material than phenolic I could charge less. Any suggestions? #2 How many versions were there between 70-72? Mine are 15MM thick, was there a thinner version? #3 Water holes, are they needed or just leave them as blanks? #4 How strong is the interest? #5 How much to charge for a pair? Any idea what they go for now if you could find a brand new set?