tibZ

WOW!, A dream find. That car is a minimum 5K here in New England. A perfect project.

Bruce, from what I was told by the PO, the car has been in his garage since 1984. He had it out in 2005 and put about 3K in various parts, floors, struts and tuneup. He never registered it and put it back in his garage until last August when I bought it. I started the restoration last fall and brought the motor into my basement to work on it all winter. This spring I will start the body work and stripping of the rest of the car, ie brake lines, fuel lines gas tank and front and rear suspension. If all goes well by spring of 2010 maybe I can start to put it all back together. Is there a problem with doing the carbs now and leave them dry? Mike

Nice job Dave. At least I can move my pistons up and down. I like the finished product though. My main concern with taking everything apart and detailing it all is with re-assembly of all the linkages, can I assume that is covered in the video? The wierd part of this is I have never driven this car, and I probably wont for another 2 years

It's OK. Bruce and Arne answered my question, I thought I might of had an early version carb setup, I guess not. How's the economic climate in Denmark these days?

yeah, It's a real big problem, fishing got so efficent they almost wiped out the stocks. Now we have the govt. setting fish quota's, we're toast.

What do you mean underwater? Isn't that what everyone's engine looks like??? Fortunatly it looks worse than it actually is. I have since taken it apart and blasted and painted and clearcoated everything. so it looks much better now and I'm hoping the clearcoat will protect everything from our salt air erosion problem here in Gloucester. Thanks Bruce, I will be in touch soon. Mike

Hi Folks, I am almost to the point where I can focus my attention to my carburetors. Been doing some surfing around this and the ZTherapy site because I'm leaning towards rebuilding them myself with Ztherapy's kit/video. I haven't seen any downside to doing busness with them but I haven't talked to them yet either. On their website they mention the "rare" 3 screw carbs with a float bowl drain plug". I think this is what I have although the PO told me they came from a 72. (he also told me there was no rust ) Can anyone clarify this for me? What do I have here and are there any issues rebuilding these? Thanks Mike

Thanks for the invite, I will look into it.!

Welcome to the best Z site on the web. Good to see another Z here in Mass. I'm about 6 months ahead of you in the restoration dept. I bought mine last August. Hope to be on the road in late 2010 or 2011. These are great toys to play with. Mike

Welcome, You have come to the right place. All the help you can get is in these forurms. What are your plans for it? Mike

No, That fits the right side. I got that one with the engine bolt kit from Datsun Spirit. I found my original in a box of parts. It will go out in the next plating run. I found it unusual that all the engines I have looked at had the indicator tab on the right side and mine is on the left. It is a May 73 z. Thanks to all for the input.

That is correct.

Thanks Guys. Is there a way to figure out how far the differences in notches on the damper would be if I wanted to re-locate it to the right side, or just continue my search for the left side plate? Thanks Mike

I have noticed on every z motor I have pics of the timing indicator tab is located on the passenger side of the car. Mine is on the drivers side. Is this a common place for just the 73? Searched around but can't find an answer. I have a new one for the left side and I think my original was "lost" at the platers, still hunting for it. The notch on the damper is also on the drivers side. What gives?

Good news, you may have gotten lucky......no major repairs to make. Mike

Looks Great. I like the touch you did with the matching color on the air cleaner.

here's some. http://motors.shop.ebay.com/items/Parts-Accessories_Car-Truck-Parts-Accessories__valve-cover_W0QQMake247a0eZDatsun7996eb75QQModel4710b09ZQ5ASeries65091b6aQQSubModel7484d09Z240z17840cQQ_nkwZvalveQ20coverQ20QQ_cqrZtrueQQ_nkwuscZvalvaQQ_nkwuscZcoverQQ_osacatZPartsQ2dAccessoriesQ5fCarQ2dTruckQ2dPartsQ2dAccessoriesQQ_sopZ10QQ_trksidZm270Q2el1313

Nice find, What are your plans with it? Mike

Yeah, love the dupli-color. I re-did a 69 mustang a couple years ago and loved the blue engine paint so I carried it over to the Z. The aluminum parts were bead blasted and if the finish was OK I just clearcoated them. If it wasn't I used Aluminum engine paint and clear. Being on an island the salt air really does a number on the aluminum so all parts will have a high temp clear-coat. Still leaning towards a white for final color. It was the color of my first Z in 76. I think this motor will look good in a gleaming white engine bay. Just my personal opinion. Mike

Hi folks, I have added some new pics to my photobucket page of my winter engine project. I have refreshed/replaced alot of parts and while I wait to order more stuff, (just need more $$) I thought I would do a pre-assembly assembly. I am happy with the look so far. Nothing has been torqued down as of yet, just couldn't wait to see it together.... http://s357.photobucket.com/albums/oo16/mikes73z/ Mike

....that goes behind the baffle next to the crank that breathes out through the tube coming out the side of the block. Anyone know where to buy it? Mike

I would guess there was a reason the lash pad fell off in the first place. Normally with everything operating correctly there is no reason for that to pop off. Mine was due to a major slude problem. Also spark plugs don't get bent for no reason. I suspect you have a serious valve-train/ timing issue that you need to check out before you start that car again. Mike

You are correct Diseazd, only the "worm" gear is on the crank in front of the smaller timing gear. If I slip the pulley on, the timing notch comes back to the same place each revolution when the #1 piston reaches TDC. I get the feeling there is no way to determine Firing/exhaust position until I start assembly. Thanks to all for the input. Mike

Thanks for the replies. I have the timing cover off so I can't put the distributor on. The crank pulley is 1 to 1 so the timing mark is always in the same position when the #1 cylinder is at the top. I guess I'll have to confirm my TDC when I start assembling, I was just wondering if there was another way to confirm it with everything off. Thanks again, Mike

I have the head off my engine along with everything but the crank and pistons. Everything was set at TDC before removal. What I am wondering is as I was cleaning up everything I was assuming ( I know) that if I went 1 revolution the 1st piston was now on the exhaust stroke so I went another turn to be back on the firing stroke. Is this correct or does it not matter without the timing chain in place? It will be awhile before I start re-assembly but I was just wondering if this will be an issue. In other words, is there a difference when my #1 piston is at TDC on what stroke it is? I haven't removed the timing gear or oil pump gear from the crank. Thanks for any help. Mike