87mj

They defiantly are related. I received the same email notification. They warned me to disregard the expected delivery date. They said the A2Toys delivery date was always too optimistic. BTW, I bought two sets. I haven't installed them yet but they were much better than I expected. The weatherstrip and the welt strip both looked factory. The aftermarket is far too thick.

I pulled my carbs & intake and wanted to use a local mechanic to break loose the studs on my exhaust downpipe and my manifold. I don't have access to a heat torch. He did a great job. He welded a bolt on a broken manifold stud and was able to reverse a broken stud out. I even bought helicoils for him to use which he didn't need. I was pretty happy with his work. But, when the wrecker picked up the car from the mechanic, it was windy. He took it down a back country road (including a dirt road...). A tree branch fell on the car. At first, he thought he blew a tire. It damaged my front bumper, the hood, the headlight scoops and the roof. All of which are repairable. The car is a 60,000 mile '71. It was painted in about 2000 with a cheap single stage paint job. I didn't think the single stage paint would match. Both headlight scoops and the hood would need repainted but both fenders were fine. It would have looked stupid and the insurance company wasn't too helpful. I decided to go ahead and get the entire car repainted. Now I am tearing the car down, removing everything but the interior and the engine bay wire harness. I wasn't really in the mood to do that. I bought a low vin '70 a few years ago. That car has been a long process but I am ready to reassemble the '70 now so tearing down the '71 was not in my plans. The good news if there is any is that I found a body shop that specializes in restoring classic cars. I heard about them from another local Datsun guy that was very happy with the work they did for him. The body shop does great work and they are very accommodating (they did my '70). Finding a good body shop seems to be the most difficult task. Then you don't know if you made the right decision until after the project is completed. If anyone needs a great body shop, let me know. They are located in northwest Ohio. Such as it is. 😞

What is the harm with installing the later '72+ version of the master cylinder? Factory versions of those are still available. Other than the reservoirs are switched, is there any other difference? That is what I installed on it previously except it was aftermarket.

Thanks for the help. I sure wish I would have kept a closer watch on this. My brake booster was in excellent shape. Now it is ruined. 😞

Slightly off topic but I bought a low mileage '71 several years back and one of the first things I did was to replace the steering rack bushings with poly. I wish I didn't. My steering wheel feels every bump. I plan to replace them someday with the Resurrected Classics 240 bushings. I would think it would be a noticeable improvement. I was very pleased to see they came out with a replacement.

I bought a low mileage '71 about 9 years ago. Shortly after I bought it, I replaced the brake master cylinder. I probably bought the new brake master at z car depo since that is my usual go to store. My car experienced a mishap while on the back of a flat bed wrecker truck so I now have some unplanned restoration work to be done. I was tearing the car down and removed the master cylinder from the brake booster. Over time, brake fluid has run down behind the aluminum flange and ate the paint from the booster. The bottom bolt on the booster has light rust on it now. It didnt before. I can't imagine that I did anything wrong during installation. If the nuts are tight, there isnt too much you can do wrong. Did I do something wrong or is the brake master bad? The car probably has 2,000 on that brake master. Possibly less. I didnt install a gasket but I dont think it had one. I seem to recall a gasket between the firewall and the booster but not between the aluminum flange and the brake master. Any advice even if it is wrong would be appreciated. Thanks

I had a very similar situation. Not exact but similar symptoms. When my '71 car would sit, the fuel filter would drain down to about 1/4 inch full. It required a long crank when cold. My son would watch the fuel filter fill up so he knew exactly when it would start to fire. The ID of the fuel hose was slightly too large and would allow air to get into the line. Then after sitting, the fuel would return to the tank and empty the filter. I bought new hose that is a pain to get off even after the clamps are removed and clamped it down good. Now fuel no longer retreats into the tank and the filter is 1/4 inch empty after it sits for awhile and it fires much quicker after it sits. Sounds suspiciously similar.

One of my intake studs broke during reassembly as if it broke off 90% in 1980. I decided to take it to a shop to have the gasket replaced. I will report back. I think he is on to something.

I recently received z therapy carbs. I installed them with very little fanfare. I was able to get the engine started pretty easily but I didn't fine tune the balance or mixture. Then I replaced the choke cable for an unrelated reason. Now that I am trying to adjust the carbs, I can't get it to run very well. The valves have been adjusted and the timing was set. It has new plugs and wires. The carbs were topped with oil and the vent caps were removed from the float bowls. To adjust the carbs, I warmed the engine and was able to balance them, but the choke linkage needs to be slightly on in order to keep the engine running. I started adjustment with the mixture adjustment screws completely up. Then down 3 full turns. With the choke off and the choke linkage not engaging the choke, the engine will not start with the mixture nuts in that position even when the engine is warm. The only way I can keep it running is by turning the mixture nut counterclockwise (down) opening the jets several turns all the way to the limiting screw. Then I loosen the choke cable retaining screws so that the choke linkage moves freely. Then I slowly move each choke linkage up (ie on) until it idles by itself. But it is not smooth. After setting the mixture screws, if I lift the piston slightly with the screwdriver tip, the car will stumble and die indicating it is too lean. But visually, I have the carbs, and the choke adjusted rich. When I drive it, I can feel a slight stumble and hesitation. If I have the choke slightly pulled and/or the mixture set rich, RPM is at about 1500 at idle. I can keep it running if I disconnect the choke from the carbs and screw the mixture nut all the way down. But that is clearly greater than 2 1/2 - 3 turns. I haven't counted but 5 turns perhaps? But again, the idle is not smooth. The car is not smooth on the road either. Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks

If you have stripped the car to its shell and emptied the engine bay like I did, I was thinking about putting that stuff on the back of the left frame rail and along the firewall corner directly under the brake master. I thought it might keep the brake fluid off my paint in case I spilled a little.

I am a little reluctant to use heat since it is possible that was the cause of the damage. But heat might be my only choice. Hyper dressing definitely made the rest of the vinyl soft. Just not that one section. Maybe I will give it another try. Front and back of the section.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I made a mistake. I used Meguiars Hyper dressing on it. Not back to black. It treated the rest of the vinyl very well. Just not this one section. I cant imagine what would have happened to this one section. Very odd. I will give the hair dryer a try and see how it goes. But yes, leaving it out in the sun will probably not work in Indiana. 😄

I have some factory vinyl I plan to install in my '70. It is in very good shape except for a section on the transmission tunnel. It is a strip about 10" tall along the floor on the passenger side. It is unusually stiff and wont lay flat against the jute even after I glue it down. I have tried using Meguiars Back to Black to soften it up but that didnt have any impact. I thought about Vaseline or maybe even shoot it with a hair dryer. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks

I realize this is an old post but you may also want to be careful with a guy "Emma wayne". I posted a general question about door skins. He sent me a pm indicating he had some for sale... etc.etc.etc. I should have known better because at the time, he recently joined the forum. But I checked his profile and he still visits regularly.

Some of the areas painted depended on the year of the car. I have a 5/71 with the seat brackets painted with spray paint. I also have a later 71 painted with spray paint. Each of the 4 areas with seat mounting holes were painted. I have a 6/70 with only 3 of the 4 brackets painted. On that car, they used a brush. Curiously also on the 6/70, they painted the floor behind the seat where the tool box is mounted. But just on the driver side. Every indication was it was factory paint on the inside of the car. I skipped painting that section on my restore. I assumed my car was used to train in a new guy. 🙂

I must admit that is an odd car. Looking at the outside, I see a lot of sheet metal that needs repaired. All doable. But when I look at the engine bay and all of those rusted bolts, rusted fuel rail, etc, I wonder how many bolts will snap in the engine and the suspension during tear down. When I see the engine, the body sheet metal doesnt reflect how wet the car has been.

The common vapor lock issue on the '73 cars doesnt make sense to me. If you swap out the carbs and the tank/fuel lines are open, it is just like all other z cars (excluding fuel pumps). Way off the subject, I often wondered if the fuel rail could be the cause? On the '73, there is a bend at the return. On the earlier cars, there is a square block. Maybe that block helps dissipate heat?

Does anyone know the origin of the vehicle emission control sticker that was placed on the top right underside of the hood on 240z? Was it installed by the dealer? I am trying to determine which year sticker I should install on my car. I have one of those odd cars that is titled as a '71 but has a build date of 6/70. In my case, the sticker on the car was silver but the printing wore off. So I don't know what year was printed on it. In the case of the green car below, it was also titled as a '71 with a build date of 5/70 but I really don't want to assume based on one car. Did the dealer install these? Thanks Gary

My POS body guy gave my car back to me with very straight body lines. But the paint looked like it needed sanding so I had a friend do it. But when he started, he sanded color. Then he offered to repaint it. His paint job looked great. Unfortunately, after I started putting the car back together, I became suspicious about the rear quarters when I put a set of old rims on the car. The wheel offset was off. I got a tape measure out and it was all screwed up. The underneath looked bad too. I couldnt understand why. It wasnt in that bad of shape when I gave it to him. But I had to live with it because shortly after I picked up the car, he blew his head off. So now I am paying a shop to undo his work. Then do it correctly. They will have had the car for about 6-7 months. I think I will get it back in a couple weeks.

I was in the same boat as you a few years ago. I found a 6/70 that was in fair condition. Complete, etc. I got the car restored by a POS body guy. He made the car worse than it was when I got it. They had to redo all of the POS guy's work and he damaged good sheet metal. I had a choice between scraping the body and selling the parts or fixing it. I am fixing it. They second body shop has had the car now for about 6 months. I am pretty picky about the level of detail and the guys I found are doing a fantastic job. I dont think I could have found a better body shop. The replacement KF panels really helped too. I can send you pictures if you want. I google mapped and you are about 3 hours from their shop. I think I will have the car back in about 30 days. Maybe less. You are welcome to stop by and take a look if you want. I am near Columbia City. I bet my car was in better shape than yours when I bought it but I bet your car is in better shape than mine was when I took it to the second body shop. I would get it fixed in a heartbeat. Best of luck.

I dont get it. According to the description, it is a "display engine" because It is made up of a bunch of broken parts? Very odd.

If the transaction occurred shortly before they shut down, the marching orders were "sell everything you can". You probably got 280z springs just so they could get rid of them. Heck, maybe they belong to an F150 Raptor?

I'm old. Probably older than everyone here. But I never cared for the stance of the 240z compared to the 280. The front always seemed to sit higher than the rear on a 240 and the rear had too much of a squat but the 280 had a mild rake to the rear which I liked. I personally don't care for the look when people cut the springs. It looks like a tree got dropped on it to me. I have a '71 and I kept my factory springs and installed zcar depot's 280z billet strut spacers in the rear along with factory 240z strut insulators. Now it has factory height in the front and a mild rake in the rear. To me it looks perfect. So coming from a guy that likes a mild rake on the rear, I agree with you. Your car looks like it sits too high. Front and rear both. I would agree with Jim. I'll bet you have springs from a car that is several hundred pounds heavier.

I am located along US30 between Warsaw and Fort Wayne. If you can find US30, the rest is easy.

I really appreciate the feedback. Silly details like this really bother me. My 6/70 looks like the green car. To me, it looks more like 3 coats of heavy primer with some poor quality over spray. I have a 5/71 that received similar treatment. None of them are like traditional undercoating. So if a person were to go for accuracy, it seemed to me that base+clear would be more accurate to what they did at the factory than traditional undercoating. I have a later '71 model year car that has undercoating similar to what was done to the later cars (It's vin tag is gone so I dont know the mfg date). I assumed the texture would closely resemble bed liner but it looks like I may be wrong. I am always suspect of cars covered in bed liner because I assume they are using bed liner to hide poor work. I wanted to avoid that for sure. So I will take a look at a sample and go from there. Thanks