87mj

On the early series 1 '71 cars, I believe the gas caps were flat on top. Correct?

I remember back in the day watching a 60 Minutes episode. The episode was ripping on 3 wheelers and how dangerous they were. To illustrate their case, they showed people doing all kinds of stupid things on them. Soon after, they were taken off the market. A week or so later, they did an episode on a supercar. It was Ferrari, Lamborghini, or something similar but I cant recall the exact manufacturer. To illustrate how great the car was, they were driving down public roads at 120mph. I wonder which episode illustrated greater stupidity?

Those look great but I admit its a little disappointing that they required so much effort to install them. I would have thought they would have original lines and would have made a pattern then sold them accordingly. I was planning to go with Classic Tube's steel version and have them plated. Im not sure I would have the patience or the skills necessary to do that correctly. Maybe that is still the best solution providing I can find a local orthodontist to install them? :)

I'm curious who's hard brake lines did you use? Did you buy new or did you replate your old ones? Also, same question for your door seals? Did you go with aftermarket or did you have NOS set aside? If you went with aftermarket, do you need to slam your doors?

So MadKaw, for the fronts are you still planning to mount at the sway bar? That's really all I could think of but I would want to make sure I had a visibly good quality body & paint job around the sway bar mount points when I was finished. I have seen so many times, that area of the car is allowed to be rough when completed.

This isn't some V8 swap done by a couple of rednecks in a shed over a weekend. I remember reading about these when I was a kid. It is a matter of finding the right buyer. I wish I didn't have a wife.

I think that stuff doesn't use the factory welt. It is built into the weather-strip. Then if you try to force the factory welt over the top of the weather-strip, I suspect it will make it too thick. Then the door close issue comes back. I think?

I realize there are few choices regarding the door weatherstrip. My research indicates Kia or Precision seems to be about it. Has anyone found anything that allows you to still use the factory welt strip around the doors? I need to replace my weather strip but I would like to keep the factory welt strip if possible. The car is a 1970. Thanks Gary

I would love to have that car just for the parts alone. Put those parts in boxes and neatly store them away so that I will forget I have them. Then buy used crap ones on ebay. I love doing that. That doesn't sound right...

I was reading through this got a little confused. My plan was to have the body shop blast and paint the inside and outside. Then install the windshield and rear hatch glass. Then I would get the car back and install the vinyl trim along the a-pillars, headliner, etc. Installing the dash was going to be one of the last steps. is it your recommendation to install the vinyl trim around the windows and install the headliner before the windshield and rear hatch are installed? Thanks

Dang. Does anyone have a hook?

This post is really getting out of hand. Now it has pornographic images. Orange or butterscotch? Appliance wheels? What kind of exhaust? Dang.

Well this post got a little weird. Stick to what's right? Maybe we need to remember we are dealing with classic cars and not what to do with a nuclear North Korea?

I'm hurting my head thinking about this but assuming all other variables are correct, is it possible that the lower temp indicates that the new water pump is not moving as much water? Can that mean water is sitting in the radiator and being allowed to cool longer rather than circulating through the block? Shouldn't you take the temperature of the head or block instead?

is the '71 in 905 red and factory paint? It looked like it had 20 years of dust on it so the paint must be factory? I have always wanted a car with the factory paint.

Yes pics or it didn’t happen. Captain, isn’t it written in the forum rules somewhere? We need to validate it. Your new 240z could be an ‘92 Buick.

Let me get this right. The 240z is the LAST car to add to your Datsun collection?

Isn’t the plastic a vapor barrier to Prevent moisture inside the doors from reaching the door panels? I always thought if moisture got in the doors, I would want it to escape any way it could. And if the sheet metal could dry at the expense of the door panels, so be it. Am I looking at it wrong?

Excellent. Thank you. Excellent car too.

I will be painting a 1970 car soon and would like to bring it back to factory appearance as much as my knowledge and memory will allow but I cant remember which bolts were painted from the factory. The body shop wants to paint all of them if they are visible. But I don't think Nissan did that back then. The bolts that run along the inside of the fender that fasten the top of the fender to the chassis (between the fender and the hood). Where those painted or left unpainted? I seem to recall they were unpainted. Correct? The inspection lid bolts were painted. The hood hinges bolts were painted (the hood torsion springs were black) The door hinges and bolts were painted. The bolts on the latch side were not. The rear hatch hinges and hinge bolts were painted BUT the large Phillips head screws were not painted. I am far too old to remember minor details so any help would be appreciated. Thanks Gary

I live close to auburn Indiana where there is a big annual auction. A couple years ago, a nice '73 went on the block and sold for low $20's to a remote "internet" bidder. The paint was new and nicely done but the sanding of the body work looked like I did it. It also wasn't correct to the car. i wouldn't have called that a restore either. Sometimes the value of these cars can be very confusing.

I'm still hopeful this guy is going to come through. Hopefully we will hear from them soon.

Yes, Yes. I have seen pics of your car every time I log in. I feel as if you are deliberately rubbing it in. The '70 has blue interior but most of the diamond vinyl was too far gone to use. While I still have some of blue interior, I didn't have either door panel so converting to black will be pretty painless. I must agree. I really like the black stripe too. Back in the day, racing stripes were very popular. I am sticking with 14" 195/R70 tires so it should look very dated. Im not sure I am going to like that 1970 transmission though....

I bought a series 1 car a couple of months ago. Vin 5305, numbers matching motor, original transmission, hand throttle. I have it scheduled for paint in July. I want it to be as original as possible but the car is white. In high school, my first z was a white '73 with flat top carbs and we didn't get along well. The car will be rotisseried, blasted inside, outside and underneath. I plan to keep the car until I die but I will have before and after photos in case I ever decide to sell. If I change the color to 918 (still a valid color for 6/70), does anyone think it will make the car less desirable? I cant imagine that it would but changing the color of an early car seems like it violates something but I am not sure what.

Thanks for the post. Most of the lines look correct but the brake line going under the tunnel looks like it stopped about 3 inches too soon before it made the bend to the rear. Then the one running to the right front tire looks way off (which naturally is the line I need the most of course). One line looks like it is touching your steering shaft? The fuel line and the clutch lines look exact.