87mj

vin#5305 6/70 has a chain. It looks just like the one on the left in your photo.

Thanks for the feedback. Yes everything in the dash works (that I have seen anyway). No engine yet so I havent checked the tach. All gauge lights work including the tach. The blue high beam headlight light works too.

I have a 6/70 that I am putting back together. I reinstalled the dash, harnesses, etc. The front & rear turn signals work, hazards, all dash lights, headlights, taillights etc. I can hear the flashers clicking. Everything flashes for the turn signals and hazards except the lamps in the instrument panel. I don't know if they ever did work. I never drove the car. The hazard switch does not appear to be factory correct (I think it came from a (~7/71) so I wonder if someone plowed this field before me. Is it safe to assume the instrument lights run off the same wire as the front turn signals? If the front turn signals work but the lamps in the dash dont work, it can't be a bad switch somewhere. It can only be something such as a faulty ground somewhere around the tach? Thanks

I have a 6/70 that I am putting back together. I seem to recall two pairs of connectors, one pair on each corner behind the turn signal lamps that serve no purpose. I wondered if they were fog light connectors or something like that?

THAT makes sense. I ran into a guy on FB that was trying to put his dash harness back together. He couldn't remember which connectors went where. I told him my dash was tore apart at the moment. If he wanted any specific pics, send me his email address and I will send them his way. I heard back a few weeks later. He asked if I ever took any pics??? Very odd since he never sent his email address. I wasn't going to mess with clunky fb. Either he didn't trust me, couldn't read English or maybe he was skim reader. Either way, I was offering to help.

I know I must be naive but what can a person gain by simply getting someone's email address or having someone get contacted?

You can set your paypal account up to point to a checking account or a credit card. Mine only points to a credit card. If I ever have a discrepancy such as this, I dont bother contacting Paypal. I just dispute it with my credit card company. I always win. Either I received the stuff or I didnt. Several years ago, I restored my Jeep Comanche pickup. My factory rims were in bad shape and I found a place online somewhere that had 4 of them. I bought them. What I didnt realize was they found several rims throughout the country and sent them to me. They each looked good but they didnt match. The tint of the clearcoat was way off. It was very noticable. I contacted the company I bought them from, and this woman told me I didnt buy a set of rims. I bought 4 rims. After a few phone calls, emails and photos, they dug their heals in and wouldnt let me send them back. I contacted the credit card company and about 6 weeks later, I received an RMA in my email. If you used a credit card, contact the card company directly. Even though you specified family or friends, there is still an email paper trail. Credit card would back that scam up in a minute. I love boinking scammers like that.

I had the same problem. Except every time I pushed down on the hinge while tightening, then removed the weight, it would come back up. Finally, I was able to loosen the hinge and tie a dumbbell to it with a tie strap (60 lbs). That allowed it to be held down while i tightened it back up. The hood (mid '70 car) has holes in the front. I was able to put a strap in that too and tie a dumbbell to it. Believe it or not, it worked. In my case, I needed to be careful that the hook on the strap didn't put a dent in the sheet metal of the hood.

I went with classic tube. I bought them with the expectation that I could get them plated yellow zinc like they were from the factory. The plater didn't think he could plate them. Regardless, I installed them and I was very happy with the result. They ship them in a very large carton to reduce the number of bends (ie folds) they need to make in order to package them. Even taking that into consideration, you will still need to straighten them and bend them in other areas. I wanted to make sure I still used the rubber brake line insulators in the brackets. I also had another car I could reference to make sure I ran everything in the correct holes. I did not want to see any waves in the tubes. Even a small 8" section. I bought a brake line bending tool and a brake line straightening tool. Without those, it would have been impossible and it would have looked terrible. If I had it to do over, I would have done the same thing. I have one section I need to adjust. Other than that, it looks like someone smarter than me did it. BTW, I am in the middle of a ground up restoration. I dont remember any job being any more difficult than running those brake lines through the transmission tunnel and into those rubber insulators. Take some liquid patience (one bottle), then work for 1/2 hour and repeat the process a few times. Then work on it again next weekend.

Ouch. Those rear wheel arches look like they came off my Jeep Comanche pickup. He may think they look ok but personally, I think they look like I did them.

Thanks Jeff. I really wanted a set of Watanabes but the minimum width they have is 8". Some seem to like the look of a wheel that is 1" + wider than the tire but its not for me and I dont want to alter fenders to get them to fit. Panasport has a fisheye look. I think I am the only person on the planet that doesnt like those but I don't think I will have much choice. ( Sorry I didn't mean to hijack the thread 🙂 )

Do you think 16x8+0 with 225/50R16 would fit a 240 as long as it is at standard ride height and without trimming?

Great. I will give that a try. Thanks

I installed my headlight scoops the other day and noticed a small crack in the clearcoat. I looked at it a couple of hours after I installed it and realized it was a crack in the headlight scoop. I think the car took a bump there long ago. I am not too concerned with the crack as long as it doesnt get any bigger. I really dont want to replace it and risk a paint mismatch. Does anyone know of a resin or something that can be applied to the back to keep it from growing? Any thoughts? Thanks Gary

I have a 6/70 that I am restoring. The sway bar brackets that bolt to the bottom of the frame rails and hold the sway bar bushings seem to be the exact shape as my 5/71 in every way. Except on my 6/70 they were never painted. They appear as if they were yellow zinc. My car has been sitting for a very long time so I dont think the suspension components have been modified. I like the look of properly zinc'd parts but I am not a big fan when it is over done. Has anyone ever seen these brackets zinc from the factory or have you only seen black?

Since I am digging into one of these, I thought I would add to it. The hood is different. I have a 6/70 I am rebuilding and the underneath side of the hood at both corners next to the cowl doesn't have as much stamped reinforcement as the later cars. Even compared to my 5/71.

I am in the process of restoring a '70. I have gutted it and am in the process of putting it back together. My next step is to install a new dash. I have moved the dash wiring harness to the new dash along with all the gauges and I am about to plug everything back into the harness. The engine is still out of the car. I am about to plug a battery into the harness so I am very intimidated at the thought of burning something up. My ground is connected correctly. Assuming I am careful and connect the electrical components back together such as the lights, horns, etc. so that nothing is touching metal that shouldn't, I see there are 3 wires coming off the positive battery terminal. One is a thick black wire which goes to the starter. I assume that powers the starter motor. Since there is no starter right now, I assume I can put that one aside. That means there is a smaller gauge black wire going to the solenoid and another going to the fusible link. If I wanted to apply power to the harness to test the lights, horns, gauges and so on, is it safe to say I only need to apply power to the wire with the fusible link? I also thought I would pull all the fuses from the fuse box except the circuit I am testing. That should eliminate any chance of burning everything up. Agree? Any suggestions?

I ended up buying an inexpensive Harbor Freight lift. I was able to get the engine out but the hydraulics in the lift were not strong enough to hold the load up for any period of time. When I put it back in, I am going to use my tractor and loader in the driveway along with two sons to guide it in. I read a previous post where using the two factory lift points was a bad idea. Someone said they are not strong enough and would break. From the pics, it looks like everyone is using those. Has anyone had any problems? BTW, the rope through the transmission tunnel is an excellent idea.

Just curious. Has anyone successfully painted the engine bay without removing the engine, brake lines, harness, etc?

I wanted to comment on this post. I never saw a wheel in person that is the same color as those photos. In fact, I would go so far as to say the years have not changed the color of the wheel at all. The finish may have wore off in areas and caused discoloration but the color hasn't changed. Like others have already mentioned, the knob and the wheel were two totally different colors.

I confess I dont know the visual difference between a 350z and a 370 et al. but I am a little surprised how few S30 cars appear to be there. From the videos, it looked like there were far more later cars and very few S30.

eek. That is tacky. And unfortunately, period correct. If you are taking votes, its got to go. What were they thinking? Nice car though.

Those body side moldings were very common back in the day. Z seems to be very sensitive to different add ons based on the color of the car. Personally, I don't like the look of them on most cars. I have a 905 red car that I thought really needed them. So I put them on it. But they were adhesive type. No rivets. My wife and I both like the look but my younger sons don't. I have a 918 orange car that I wouldn't dream of putting them on. If it were me and I was going to send the car in for repaint, I would get those holes filled and install adhesive based moldings. Then the holes in the sheet metal are taken car of and if you ever change your mind and decide to remove them, it wont make you sick.

I experienced the same problem when I painted my car 918. It was painted in several stages. Underside of the hood and misc small pieces. Then underneath, interior, engine bay. When I first saw it, it seemed way too brown. It actually had a purple cast to it. The body guy bought it from Napa but I don't remember the actual manufacturer off hand. The final paint job looked terrible. Quality, color, everything. So I had it redone with PPG. Then it looked "correct" to me.

The thing I don't like about BAT is there are a few that say positives about the car. It seems to increase the bidding even though the comments are highly subjective. If you don't receive their comments, you don't get good bids. Strange.