Darren Mann

Update: I took the car to a local body shop that couldn't find any issues to explain the problem. He recommended shimming it up. I placed a spacer on top of the strut insulator on the passenger side and raised it up. This caused the driver side to rise the same distance. I have another appointment with a frame shop but an incoming snow storm will postpone that for another day. Thanks,

Thanks for the response. I did replace the spindle pins that were locked up when I did the new bushings. The car sat in my mothers garage for 17 years on level concrete. She did mention the front driver side tire kept going flat. There were no spacers in the bottom of the strut tubes I cleaned them out before inserting the new struts. The new struts retaining caps are in the same position and the length from the top of the insulator to the end of the strut tube is equal.

Thanks Mike. Something could be bent. I am going to check the rear control arm bracket that is located near the gas tank that showed signs of being cut and repair. I just hope the parts car has a viable replacement. My thoughts are they may have modified it to mask other problems. The springs were purchased from MSA and are Eibach springs that are numbered and I have confirmed they are in the correct position.

I have replaced all struts on each corner and new Eibach springs. All control arm bushings on all corners. Front Stabilizer bushings are new. Front wheel bearings. Nothing has fixed this problem that was there before I started any work on the suspension. We've measured the rear strut assemblies from top to bottom and they are the same. 240z insulators both sides. Same size tires. I will rent a spring compressor again this weekend and remove the new rear struts and see if they are the same size. The one thing that seems really difficult to explain is that when raised off the ground there is still a 1" difference from side to side with wheels hanging and level across strut towers. Then when lowered (and rolled) ;-) there's a 2" difference. Why would more force be exhurted on that corner to push it down more. Next week it's going to a body shop for them to look at the frame/body. The more I look at it - The more it seems like there are problems related to an accident at play. I understand people have said the doors line up well but the thing to remember is they were adjusted that way. The hood was a challenge to get lined up. So I don't think we can rule that out. I just feel that the rearend is twisted. Time will tell. Thanks

After rolling the car back and forth it settled some but still the 2" difference. 1/2" clearance "fender to tire" on passenger side and 2-1/2" driver side

When we had the car level and measured to the ground and the fenders were the same we still had an inch difference between the fenders and tires. You suspected the tires were different size.. Do you recall?

It has to be the frame/body if the strut tubes measure the same top to bottom? The Insulators both measure the same.

The tires were off the ground.

I just dropped the strut assemblies down and they measure 25-1/2" from the top of the insulators to the end of the strut tube. Same on both sides.

Ok I lifted it off the ground and placed a block under the passenger cab corner and lowered it until level across the strut towers. I measured from bottom of tires to top of the tires on both sides - 23" I measured the distance from top of the tire to the fender passenger side measured 4.75" Driver side 5.75". I measured from the top of inner strut housing to the spindle bolt Passenger side - 27-5/8" Driver side 27-3/4". Nothing makes sense. When lowered to the ground the distance from top of the tire to the fender - Passenger 3/4" Driver 2-3/4"

One thing to remember is that this problem was what caused me to start replacing parts. I just have not found a solution after installing new struts (that were the same length), new urethane bushings on the control arms (torqued while on the ground), New pivot pin, new springs (verifed in the correct position and correct location), tires measure the same size. The insulators and rubber bushing in the insulator (240z style) were the only parts I didn't replace in the strut assembly because they were in good shape. No cracks and the rubber still soft. They are both bolted up correctly to the strut tubes. I know it's difficult to picture what I have as a problem and I really appreciate all the feedback. Thank you!

The tires are still on the ground when I levered it with the jack under the passenger cab corner. The measurement to the floor from the fender is the same. The measurement from the fender to tire is 1" greater on the driver side. The tires and wheels are the same size I just verified. The tire does pitch in at the top more on the passenger side when fully lowered.

Sorry I didn't see your new post. Insulator Studs are fully through on both sides. When it was sitting level at the strut tops the wheels were still on the ground. There was still the same difference in fender to tire space of 1" even when the fenders were the same distance to the floor.

That's funny because I just measured that a few minutes ago and they were the same. from the top spring cap to the bottom of the strut tube with the wheels in the air. We are starting to think alike. ;-) The ONLY thing it could be that hasn't been changed out is the insulators but they wouldn't explain the extra height on the drivers side. I have an appointment with a local body shop that can straighten it next week. For $50 he will measure things out. I'm thinking that would be money well spent before I buy more parts. I really appreciate your time helping me. Thank you.

In thinking about this. If I had to jack the body on one corner to get it to level on the fenders isn't that indicating the box is the problem? That is what I moved to get it level. Maybe I'm not thinking correctly...