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View Advert 1976 Datsun 280z Base Year: 1976 Model: 280z Base Engine: 2.8 L L28E I6 Trans: (manual/auto) Automatic Color: (int/ext) Light Blue Metallic / Black Mileage:149000 Description: 1976 Datsun 280z (Base), slotted aluminum wheels, BFG Radial T/A's, front & rear bumper overriders, rear hatch louvers. Asking price: $16995.00 / obo Name: Phone: Email: rsventers@suddenlink.net City/State/Country: North Carolina / USA Car is in very good shape. I am the original owner. Have 4 1/2 pages of upgrades and maintanance items if interested. Car was painted in 2007. Advertiser Heelz Date 01/14/2021 Price $16,995.00 Category Cars for Sale Year 1976 Model 280z Base Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

Thanks Zed. Might wait awhile. Would like to to try and drive her a bit first.

1976 280z, Automatic, 160,000 miles A few days ago I was researching the forum for a problem that I was having with my latest purchase and started reading different stories about adjusting valves, firing order, etc. I read where the number one cylinder was the cylinder closest to the radiator and continued on to number six which is closest to the firewall. The car I have now has number one at the firewall and number six at the radiator. I removed the valve cover and the distributor cap. When the cylinder closest to the radiator is at top dead center, (the mark on the crank pulley at 0 and both lobes on the cam up) the rotor button on the distributor is at the number six plug wire. When the cylinder closest to the firewall is at top dead center, (the mark on the crank pulley at 0 and both lobes on the cam up) the rotor button is at the number one plug wire. Not sure what the marks on the cam sprocket should be. How do I to correct this?

I wanted to check the some of the components like water temp. sensor and other items using the 32 pin connector. I trust the meter, I'm just not sure which setting to use on the meter 200, 2000, 20k, 200k, or 2000k, I know I will get continuity measurement on any setting, but wanted to know if one was more "ideal" than the others.

I am going to check some of the fuel injection components on my 1976 280z. I have a Sears Digital Volt/Ohm meter and I am a little confused on which setting to use. On my meter under ohms I have the following: 200 2000 20K 200k 2000k When I use the "200" setting I have a resistance of "1" just using the probes themselves. Therefore my confusion. Thanks in advance for any help.

Have a 1976 280z with a automatic. The car has about 160,000 miles on it. The transmission fluid looks brown as you would expect. I have read where it might not be a good idea to have the fluid changed now, especially if it has never been changed. (which is what I suspect) Would like some opinions of some of you guys, especially if you have changed yours and what the results were afterwards. Thanks

Hello all. New here and new to the Z car. I have been driving a 76 280z with auto. trans. Everything works great, love the car. One thing I noticed. If I'm driving about 70 and take my foot off the gas, the car noticeable decelerates to about 55 and then you can feel the car sort of just smooth out. Although it is still slowing down, just not as quick. Just wanted to know what this is and the purpose. Thanx