Dave WM

my concern was air pockets, yes a very low probability, just overthinking it. Prob a better use if the entire system was installed in the car with lots of nooks and cranies and loops... live and learn and share the fun!

yepper... I shoulda just shut it off after pulling the vacuum and closed off the valve, shoulda coulda woulda..

something that "may" be contributing to the issue is the condition of the fan motor. Old sticky oil bushings may create some unwanted drag, adding the it over all power consumption issue. IIRC the motor was rated at 100 watts at 12v, that's around 8-9 amps at reg battery voltages (full power setting). I think actually measured this back when I was fussing with it. Prob a good idea to check the total draw at full power to make sure you are in that 8-9 amp range. You can do this removing the fuse and subbing in a ammeter. I would do this with the car running so you have full battery voltage. I would def check this a different "upgrade" fan and motor were installed. No such thing as a free lunch, yes more air but what about the amps (Apollo 13)

correct, more resistance lowers the current I=E/R, so lower current will result it less overall power (resulting in slower fan speed), less current in circuit will result is less voltage drop across the fuse. less voltage drop across fuse less heat, lower possible blowing of fuse. prob should clarify I=current, E=voltage, R=resistance.

indeed, is suspect modern cars will suffer even more with NLA as they age, the upside to this era is at least there is not a LOT of electronics and what it does have is pretty simple with possible work arounds (like the sensor in the amazon add).

I dumped the contaminated oil from the pump added some, dumped that, then refilled. Have not plugged it in again, hoping I did not hydrolock damage it. Its a nice yellow jacket 2 stage pump....

oh my... yea I did not monitor the vacuum, left it running while the evap o rust was being sucked in (at a rather extreme pace I must say. Anyway eventually the fluid entered my suction line, into the pump and whamo, eruption out of the vent of the pump spewing a nice watery oil mix straight up all over the place, soaked the about a 3 ft radius (just missed my car). ugh...

The only real way I think if its a chronic issue and you want more airflow would be to devise a relay scheme that bypasses the fuse box completely and runs a separate power line (and fuse that will hold up). I have thought of this but decided against it, rather I just monitor the fuse now and then and see if its running hot. IIRC i did attempt to retension the clips by using some very small o rings around the end of the clamps adding tension. I have not had issues with it and the fuse cover has not melted again.

its all about power thru the fuse box, measure the voltage drop across the fuse and you will see the diff in fan speeds. more drop across fuse more heat on fuse element. You are correct about the resistor pack for speed control, it will run cooler, but I doubt they burn out, pretty stout design. The Motor and the fuse however will heat up as more power is being used, and some of that has to go to heat, both the motor and the fuse.

could not help myself. reminds of of the old aftershave commercial with john goodman getting slapped in the face then he responds "thanks I needed that" 🙂

its prob just the design, the owners manual calls the fastest setting "emergency cooling" IIRC, as if they wanted it used for a limited time. Add to that ANY resistance in the wiring at the fuse box (its just crimp connected to the spring clamps that hold the fuse), the spring clamps are old and prob lost some tension, and maybe even the quality of the glass fuses sold today (imagine that), and you have a recipe for for failure. Not sure of a long term solution other than try different fuses, and deoxit and limit the time at full power.

thanks Steve, found it but NLA dang it.... 25090-H7310 - Sensor, Floor - Genuine Nissan Part (nissanusa.com)

oh sometimes it works perfect, only lights during crank off as soon as key released to ON after starting. Cat light work perfect every time, only on during START, off as soon as key released to ON.

have not check into it, only things i assume that can be at fault would be the relay or the switch. IIRC the floor temp lignt was on in both ON and START, would stay on for a few seconds after engine running, then would go off. this is a Cali car with the cat light as well that works as it should, only on during start to test the light. I will do a check of continuity tomorrow, but if the floor temp switch is bad, I found this uxcell KSD301 Thermostat 100°C/212°F 10A Normally Open N.O Adjust Snap Disc Temperature Switch 2pcs - - Amazon.com looks about right. could not find the correct PN in the car parts manual site, so not sure how to find an OE switch.

the video missed the major eruption but you get the drift... o and after CO mentioned the Lathe well you know...

oh yes we had fun with evap o rust alright mount Vesuvius any one?

hope to get the new oil pump spindle today tired of swapping it so I can run a NA dizzy. when I get that in I will be able to button up engine, then I can do another flush thru the open expansion plug holes. the OE plugs should be here monday (not gonna use the made in China dormans 🙂 ). after I get the the plugs in I am thinking of filling up with some evap o rust and letting is set for a day to get more of the rust out. will just install some rad hose on the water inlet and fill till it come out the T stat housing. oh and got a new OE turbo oil tube on the way from japan, hope it survives the trip.

got head on last nite, TC too, hand spun it all were about 75 psi. Spent a ton of time cleaning the gasket off the engine for the front cover. Will work on the front cover side next. Will prob pop for a dizzy drive just so i dont have to keep swapping them out to run my test stand dizzy. Got some OE core plugs on the way (thanks Jeff, I needed that, anyone remember the old aftershave comercial?).

checked on main .0015 (best I could read the plastigage), con rod .001 so looks good there. pulled one piston (the one I was checking the con rod) rings were nice a loose in the lands pistons looked very good, and no coked up oil in the expansion ring was noted. Lastly I fabed up a tool for installing the core plugs. Having not done this before I decided I needed a tool to make sure I get the plugs in a consistent correct depth. here is a short video of the tool

thanks for the tip!! I like the idea of the anaerobic on the copper gasket to head and block junction.

counting beans was just a way to afford real passions 🙂

some progress beside what I started on the P90a head.. Pulled the next to last main bearing, very little wear, two tiny scratches (on the bearing the journal looks perfect). the two scratches are hair thin, I am going to leave them be IF test with plastigauge are ok. Pulled #2 conrod bearing again virtually no wear, and journal looks perfect. This engine looks like a low mileage low oil change or maybe cheap arse oil used. everything on the outside is coked up, the turbo was thrashed but the bearing and the cylinder hone looks low mileage. I was thinking of removing # 2 piston while the rod bearing was apart to inspect the rings, mainly the oil control rings (the leak down test shows good compression). This is new territory for me, (never tore into an engine before, I am an electronics guy not a mechanic guy). so each thing i do is new. I was thinking if the oil control rings are gummed up with the same cheap arse burnt up oil, maybe I could dunk the piston in my berrymans parts cleaner can and soak them. Clean off and reoil then reinstall. Thinking on it while waiting on the dumb plastigage, AZ showed in stock at local store but guy could not find it.

yikes, will be extra carefull, maybe a collar on the bit..

I just popped for some dorman plugs from oreily's. Heck I almost think I could just open up the old ones a bit with a socket and reuse them... but I will stick with the China made dormans. I checked the OD and they are just a few thou larger, makes sense. Gonna leave the big on in back in place, it looks perfect. will check the fit of the one in front (got a dorman for that too) before I pull it, since pulling will def ruin it. I just get this feeling there is some hard to clean out junk behind it.