Dave WM

wow that is some really nice work you have there!

just engage two gears a the same time, that will lock the trans so you can tighten the nut. push two of the shift rings into gear to select two at the same time.

indeed, I tried a few of the bolts and they were not having it. Its at a local rebuilder that has lots of exp with these, I like the fact that they are local saves on time and shipping (both cost and possible damage).

I found the PN KL1669 and 410581-3 for garrett on the turbo tag. I think I found a CHRA that should work for about 300$ Garrett TB0306 CHRA Cartridge 410581-0007 (invasionautoproducts.com) I am using this as a cross NISSAN410581-000314420P9000CHRAN/ATB0306USE 410581-0007 This is turning into quite a research process to run down the needed part.

The compressor impeller is smoked (chipped blades) otherwise i would be all over that kit. Not sure if you can get a kit that includes impellers also. Would need to balance that as well.

OR, tomorrow I give these guys a call found them on hybridz Rebuilding (gpopshop.com)

it looks a LOT like this (nla but id as a replacement for a 280zx turbo) Remanufactured Genuine OEM Turbo Turbocharger CHRA For Nissan Datsun 280ZX - BuyAutoParts 42-00133R Remanufactured, Turbochargers - Amazon Canada

it looks a LOT like this (nla but id as a replacement for a 280zx turbo) Remanufactured Genuine OEM Turbo Turbocharger CHRA For Nissan Datsun 280ZX - BuyAutoParts 42-00133R Remanufactured, Turbochargers - Amazon Canada

I found this after a brief search, not sure if its a cheap knock off since the price is just for the CHRA Mercedes Benz 300TD 300 SLD Garrett TB03 Turbo Turbocharger CHRA Cartridge Core | eBay

I am trying to get some help on finding a way to either fix my existing stock turbo charger (looks like may have some broken compressor blades, and is very sloppy in the bearing). any one know of a good stock replacement? I am not looking for an upgrade as I want to keep the orig EFI system intact. Hopefully a direct bolt in replacement. OR should I get it rebuilt? if so any recommendations for a rebuilder?

Indeed, I had ended up melting some solder into a aftermarket wood shifter I had to alter the weight. odd noise went away. I assume its some kind of resonant frequency (Kenneth), that was happening in my setup.

what shift knob are you using?

water temp switch on my 75 Cali car was for the EGR system. It is disabled during warm up with an electrically controlled vacuum source. I have had a few of both the thermotime as well as the temp switch. Most of the used ones did not function. I presume corrosion was the factor. The temp switch in my case was a NC below 140f IIRC, I ended up making my own with an old housing and a new temp controlled reed style switch, epoxied into place. I think the main problem I had finding a new temp switch was most were NO at below 140f and would close once the engine would warm up. Not what the EGR wanted. I think on others the temp switch had to do with switching the dual coil distributer pickups for different advance one full temp was achieved.

for me it was going back to steel rims and new tires. I never tried the new tires on the slotted alum mags, so it may have been just a defect in the old tires. I have the orig struts (the stock rebuildable ones) on the front and some non gas filled carts on the back. I have ZERO vibration at any speeds. My guess is the tires, I may go back to the slotted mags if I lose another wheel cover, I have thrown 2 now and its getting aggravating.

looks like you lined up the hole in the new bushing with the oil gutter correct?

I don't know if it matters, but you may want to look into if its ok mount the drier on an angle. I don't ever recall seeing anything other than straight up and down with that style, there may be a reason for that.

one thing I wish I had done when I had mine apart would have been to put the main shaft on some V block when it was stripped down, then take some run out measurements. I don't recall if the FSM has a spec on that, but I have done some research on this and now know that they can be bent, and straightened if needed by a machine shop. they just lay it up in a jig and apply pressure, sounds easy but I presume its not as easy as it sound.

I wonder if the 280z has more leg room, I am 6'3 and have plenty of leg room with the seat in the rear most position.

look out for shims on the countershaft bearing used to space it correctly on the front plate. Sometimes they get stuck to the front plate with some oil, but can get lost.

the web site is clunky, there should be another shipping option. IIRC it defaults to that expensive ship option.

vacuum will be effected by warm vs cold engine and ign timing as well.

and I have a video for that! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wsaP95p4q88&ab_channel=DaveWM

I thought at some point you had swapped the injector connector and the problem stayed with #1?

I too agree with ZH and an air leak at an injector o ring. I suggest you seal up the intake at the entrance to the AFM and smoke it out using the brake vacuum port. You dont even need an expensive smoke machine, just a cheap cigar and puff the smoke in. Look for the smoke. I found I had missed an o ring this way. I can not recall the problems I was having with the car at the time, or if they were the same as you are currently having. But it was def a running issue.

This is where a "color tune" plug would come in real handy, lets you see inside the combustion chamber while its running. If they were not so darn expensive I would have 6 and use them anytime I was diag a problem with fuel mix/spark. With one you can observe the problem cylinder then compare to a know good cylinder. Two would be easier just look at them and compare. All 6 is overkill but would be cool just to see if how the mix is on all at the same time.