Dave WM

thats it, 15$ on the website FAS-01

really dont recall, smallish vendor datsun specialist. sells the whole shabang, including the hard to find long skinny one. If I run across it I will post up. it was a few years ago. pretty reasonable too IIRC. oh and they were NOT stainless either.

I used thread seal. I too never had a leak until I used BRAND NEW bolts, then even with anti-seize, it leaked. So Z Kars, were the bolts new or used (with residue of some kind on them) enquiring mind would like to know.

never mind, ZKars was able to follow.

mov would not work for me. That being said hope you dont break off the skinny bolt that goes back to the block. they frequently seize there and snap off. If that happens you will need to pull the front cover making it a much bigger job. I would try what ever trick you know to see if you can remove them with out breaking.

check it (resistance) at the ECU connector, that will verify the harness connections. IIRC its pin 13 to ground, but check your fsm to be sure.

fyi I went back and looked at the fsm, the device in line between the overflow tank and the canister is indeed a check valve so you should check by injecting smoke at the fuel nozzel not the tube at the canister. You prob inject smoke at the fuel filler, should confirm that the smoke goes to tje canister line, if smokes then clamp it off and add some pressure to the tank (again at the filler neck), I would not go over just a few psi though. OR if you are pretty sure you found it I guess you could just go for a retest.

well you will have to build pressure in the tank before very high resistance, you should not go overboard, just a few PSI really. the line from the canister could be blocked (mine was with rust on the metal line under the car) completely. This presents as a whoosh of compressed vapors when you open the fuel cap on a hot day. There is a considerable about of restriction from on that line from the canister to the overflow tank. IIRC there is a small restricter right at the end of the rubber tube near the canister that chokes down the opening, and there is a special designed device near the over flow tank as well. IF you can fill the tank with with out any issues when filling up with gas, and you get no whoosh when opening the tank on a hot day, then you likely have venting. the question is does the line from the canister to the overflow tank work as it should. Smoking out seems the only way to find a gross leak. Low pressure and smoke should find it.

I think so, but it seems more logical to use the same approach as the tech did, since its that test that will count. IIRC the restriction device works both ways, but more restriction on way than the other. So I would stick with the hose in the filler neck, with a damp rag sealing it up while the same canister hose clamped off as done during the test. I must say i am impressed by the through testing done in your state.

you may want to take look under car, rear pass side, look to make sure the rubber line from the overflow tank is even hooked up. On my car the hard line was rusted closed so to keep the tank from over pressurized the rubber hose had been removed (venting directly into the air). Maybe someone did the same "fix" to yours... IF the hard line is rusted closed you may want to look into removing just the bottom most section, that is likely where the rust is. Much easier to just patch in a replacement there than trying to replace the entire hard line.

ok yes if he clamped the correct hose and it did not hold, then you have a problem. I would start by smoking out the system, you should be able to feed back thru that same hose and look for smoke. If i recall correctly you can back feed that line. However a better solution to duplicate his test would be to clamp the same hose an rig up a way to smoke from the filler since that is what he did. maybe just a smoke hose and some damp rags to fill around the opening. fyi the correct canister hose would be the one that goes to a hard line and heads back to the tank.

odd, "gross" for result is not pass or fail. the tank has a restriction valve from the overflow tank (not sure if that is the right name for it, its small tank located near the filler) that takes fumes from the tank and passes them thru the carbon canister. so the tank is always vented but fumes are captured in the charcoal. not sure how it was tested, unless they just put pressure into the tank and thru the filler hole and measured the PSI to see how rapidly the pressure would blead off (the same way a compression leak down test done on cylinders can tell the % of blead down. Did you observe how the test was performed? I suppose if the restriction valve was not functioning correctly then it could be the problem. Maybe a simple fix would be to insert a restriction into the line to the carbon canister, prob being you dont know what amount of restriction they are looking for. again this assume you have not modified the fuel vapor emissions systems at all. IF they are simply seeing if the tank holds pressure with the engine off, then they don't understand how the system works. Its not computer controlled with purge valves operated by a computer.... the car predates such things.

indeed how is the voltage at idle when fully loaded with demand. I have stock setup including no extra items that increase current draw over the OE needs That being said I do go into a slight discharge mode when idle is at 800 rpm and all electrical is on (head lights, fan, AC clutch, blinkers, wipers) That being said its only at idle, as soon as I get to about 1.1k rpm I am in charge mode (I have an ammeter not a volt meter on my 75). My work around was to bump up the idle when the AC is on to about 1.1k rpm. This keeps me in charge most of time when sitting still in traffic as the AC comes on a lot here in Florida, and the fan draw is generally what puts it into discharge mode.

the large connector that attaches to the ECU. refer to the FSM for the pins to check see the fuel injection section. there is a diagram that you can follow.

any time you have a cold running issue that goes away at warm up you need to check the water temp sensor resistance while the engine is cold AT THE 35 PIN CONNECTOR. read the fsm on what you should see. perhaps you have already done this.

glad you got it going. The thing about mechanical stuff is you need to actually use it, long periods of inactivity are not good for moving parts.

ok 15v but it should not go that high for long. Ideally I like to see 14v max.

I was not talking about the SS VR but the one you just installed. the FYI 16v was just that FYI not about the mechanical one you are trying to get working.

fyi should nver be near 16v, 14v max. the Mechanical VR are very easy to trouble shoot, break out the FSM and study the circuit. its pretty simple, two relays, one duty cycles the alt field coil with battery voltage to maintain output, the other relay operates the charge light and prevent current flow thru the alt windings when the car is not running. IF the mechanical VR is at fault, its generally going to be relay contacts corroded or an open or shorted coil.

1/3 sounds about right, hook it up to a 12v source and check it again in about 10 minutes, should be closed. Note its not a precision part, will still pass air even closed, just some restriction. unplug it and check it again in about 1 hr, should be back to the original opening of 30%-40%. It uses a bimetallic strip with an built in heater to open and close, so its takes some time, as designed. Make sure you use a 12v source (to test) that can flow a decent amount of current with out to much voltage drop i would guess its prob 1/5 amp or so.

thanks! I presume the . is the same. I looked at car parts manual online and I could not see it. will try a 240z there as well

can anyone confirm the type of screw used in the middle of the piller trim? I think i see a screw and washer (machine screw) but mine is missing so now sure. its the only place that has a small hole on the trim piece the rest uses the rivnuts (plastic).

and I see an electrolytic cap in there, def beyond life. would be fun to check it for ESR.