Dave WM

all done, lost the plastic pins on the rivnuts but other than that no drama and fits great.

maybe this is common knowledge but if not, I found the part 21200-ET01A is a perfect fit (just remove the rubber gasket it comes with) 82c T stat for use in then L28. this one was in stock at the local dealership if you are in a hurry. it looks like 21200-P7901 is the one you find when searching

I had a problem with my external VR alt on my 75, would spike intermittantly, the fix was a new alternator. I never got a chance to dig into the problem as I was on the road and turned in the bad one for the core. That being said I would suggest you make sure all the cables from the alt to starter positive are in good shape, and check engine harness ground (pass side near the strut tower). The alt or the VR for external regulated needs a good battery and ground reference to know what it should regulate too. Check the battery cables too.

AV8, let me know how the glove box door fitment works out for you.

roger that, just wanted to make sure that was needed.

this is the vertical one that attaches to the front of the quarter glass with screws and seal against the window frame. I am having some issues on the removal, it seems like I need to remove the quarter glass at least at the top (tilt it out maybee?) to get the very top of the old seal to remove. This looks like the case base on the new replacement. It seems like it has to wrap around a lip at the top from of the quarter glass. Has anyone messed with these? and if so any tips on the seal remove and install? the screws all came out easy, and I released the adhesive all where it was stuck down (the bottom edge and the top under the door weather seal). The only part that is holding me up in stuck behind the quarter glass at this point. I thought I could tug it out, and then fish the replacement back into the same area with some lube and a plastic tool to easy it in place, but it really is stuck in there tight and the old one does not want to be pulled free (it would prob break off the piece then I would have to for sure remove the quarter glass to clear it out to make room for the new piece).

I think barrier hoses are used with the R-134 re smaller size mole. that being said new hoses are prob in order regardless if you plan to use different condensor and compressor. If you want to go with just changes to under the hood, I would go with a PF condenser generic that fits the opening in the core support. You may have to relocate the drier as I think most PF have fittings on the same side. Not sure about this...

that looks like a good oil to use. I have used Valvoline VR1 20/50 and or Rotella T4 (diesel) 15/40. It rarely gets below 60's here (colder than that I generally stay indoors 🙂 )

are you going to use a radiator shroud? There are brass and copper radiators out there new. things to watch out for is the drain hole location if you still have the splash pan, and the filler neck overflow direction depending on how you want to deal with then over flow. I like the copper brass types over aluminum.

guess I must be the exception here, never had that problem.

OP one thing to watch out for, oven cleaner, there are some folks on internet that use this stuff, esp to clean alum, not a good idea, as it will dull and grey the finish and just not needed.

works great I use it all the time with no issues, super clean, nice when looking for oil leaks etc as well. Main point is water is not good as it can promote corosion if not dried well. Its easy to over love an engine by thinking it needs to be all shiny, inside is what matters, this is for the OP as far as engine cleaning goes.

I would recommend you stay away from cleaning with any kind of flowing water, If you must clean just use a damp cloth with some warm soapy water and wipe down where you want to clean. The engine does not care to be clean, except if you plan to open something up and there is a dirt that could get the engine internals. I hose down areas like that with brake clean. It dries quickly and cuts grease and oil. Use it liberally and you can just let he dirt wash off.

I would certainly like to see some completed vintage air or others. For me I would see if i could adapt them to use the existing levers, prob not possible with out a LOT of alterations. The other issue I would like to see is how far they extend into the passenger foot well.

from what I recall when looking the heater valve over, the coil is there to alter the fulcrum on the valve. I presume its supposed to allow more or less throw in the opening of the valve to compensate for how hot the heater core is getting, to try and keep the heat constant for any given manual opening of the valve. If I am right then I doubt its function is critical, and if its broken I presume the fixed fulcrum would not really be that big a deal, just reset the manual opening if the temp is not right after the car warms up. As for the AC, it works OK in stock form using R-12. I can not comment on how it works with conversion to other coolants, like R-134a or any of the R-12 replacement gases. I do like the OE hitachi compressor, sanden and sanden clones seem to dominate the after market alternatives. I have no exp with them but I do with the OE hitachi SWP123 Its a beast of a compressor, it has a wet sump for oil, and seems to be very well built. its heavy but I dont care bout that I just want it to work, and work it does, my car has I presume the oe from the looks of it and it works find, does not leak but is noisey. I have the stock OE fan motor, while its not a hurricane force blower it does ok. I would caution that if you "upgrade" the motor you consider the amp draw, and if it exceeds the stock motor make some wiring changes to allow for the increase. The stock fuse box is stressed as is (the max setting on the fan is for emergency cooling IIRC per the owner manual). The biggest limitation seems to be the ductwork when it comes to flowing air, there was a mention somewhere perhaps on this forum about a redesigned diverter on the front vents, dont recall any followup. All the aftermarket evaps and housing make no use of an fresh air supply from the cowl chimney. That has always bothered me. That and they do not use the levers or the logic of the lever as designed so all the markings are useless to functionality. They are universal HVAC systems and seem should not be considered a drop in replacement. You can buy brand new oe fitment evaps that use a standard tvx (not the NLA stock tvx). I have one of those purchased as a spare just in case my existing evap every goes bad. I like the way the system works and would suggest you try to preserve it if at all possible.

i bought a new one from nissan, not a lot of money, I like to get OE parts where possible. opps did not notice the spring, my 280z that I was able to get the slave did not have one. Maybe 240z slave in NLA from nissan.

if the engine is running well, no odd noises, compression checks out, oil pressure good, not burning excessive oil (a quart is less than 600 miles is considered excessive), head gasket ok (check for exhaust gases in radiator with simple test kit that looks for a color change in a fluid, sold at napa), oil does not seem to have water in it (milking looking). then I would just change the oil and drive it, see if those bits show up again at the next oil change. I generally do an oil change ever 3k miles, after adding 2 qts during that time (I burn about 1q per 1000 miles). That's using valvoline 20/50 racing oil in the summer and 15/40 rotella T4 in the winter. Its pretty hot where I drive so I use the high side of the recommended range of weights.

I would avoid under coating just to prevent rusting, I know we dont have salt here but still eventually it will crack and let water get in, maybe trapped.

nice!

5$

hmmm looks like i have to go review the FSM, a closer look at my z show to distribution blocks, one seems to function only as a place to activate the brake warning switch, then there is a whole other assembly that I presume functions as the proportioning valve. I "think" the one snagged from the izuzu does both functions. anyway fun to take a part and mess with..

well upon close inspection the PV is not an exact fitment, but still looks like it would work in a pinch.

will do have to find the camera

1986 nissan PU truck, pretty decent under hood inspection light, works fine, lens in decent shape. 1991 izusu pickup what looks a lot like a brake proportioning valve. two inputs F and R on the top, a single R on the bottom a F on the bottom and the side even looks like the bolt up location would match for mounting. blew thru it, not plugged. I was thinking of trying to disassemble to see how the slide piston works to operate the switch. the switch looks a bit smaller but i presume it works the same.

I dont know if it's a franchise, but I had my tank redone by a "renew" place locale to me. was pretty expensive lIRC but its been fine since.