Dave WM

all the same but for the long block. going to take it out for a bit of a run today to further test. I talked to to Jeff (jsm) about the install, seems like i should have revmoved the single large bolt that attaches the lower mount to the crossmember, would make it easier to line up during the install, something to keep in mind when doing yours.

all done, hood back on, test drive complete, no leaks, runs very smooth, not sure if I can notice any performance pickup other than the smoothness, will have to get it out on a high way and really open up. Will take the cool running (90's today, and used the AC), and solid oil pressure. Now I will start the oil consumption testing. That was really the main reason, as I just was getting tired of the oil loss (qt per 800-900 miles). Should be interesting to see if any better. I also will hold off on tearing down the original engine until I get some time on this one, JIC something goes bad wrong, i can quickly replace it with the oil burner and not loose any drive time. So long term plan will be to continue the wire harness mods for Plug N Play turbo, and a complete tear down of the original engine to see if there is obvious reason for the oil burning. I have hoping for stuck oil rings or clogged piston drain back holes. I will do an inspection for cylinder wear using the rings to check for any out of roundness. I did pick up some rings (std) just in case its not worn or damaged to the point of needing a rebore. All this is a ways off as I need to get some drive time in. Been too long since I had a nice road trip. Maybe up the east coast this time....

oh jeez they were used....

ah ok, so its the "wide ratio" as its known by, yes the OD is much better suited for that tall final drive.

is there a 5 speed going in? if so are you planning a diff swap as well? I used the same 3.54 final drive on a 5speed from a zx, final gearing was nice for highway driving, but not much use below 70, if you hit a hill at 65-70 it needs a down shift. I think a 3.7 would be a better match for highway driving and a 3.9 for use of all gears regardless of type of driving. In FL the lack of hills makes it ok, but when I did the cross country trip to Pikes peak I definitely had to down shift when crossing even mild inclines in 5th at speed.

Well the replacement dorman welch plug leaked... dang.... I cant say for sure but I "may" have tried to install a used one. Back when doing the turbo I think I originally installed the dormans, thought about it, then removed them for nissan OE. found them in a baggie with the old rusty OE ones. they did not seem to have any witness sealant, but did not look virgin either, some small witness marks were noted. I attributed it to them banging around with old OE's all in the same baggie, should have just thrown it all away. Anyway got some new OE's on the way should be here tuesday, so standing down for a while. At least this will give the block a good long time to drain before I reinstall. the short test drive was excellent so I am pretty sure I will be happy with the end result, I just hate the down time. I was tempted to install one of those rubber temp plugs, but that seems silly just to have it for a couple days.

had the guide bolts in (cut tops off, extra long) we could never get that close to even try it. the compressor kept getting in the way, even with it tied off as far out of the way as possible. Maybe if I had removed the compressor mount then tried it. Its all so tight in there with installing the compressor, I was concerned that getting the mount bolted to the engine block with the compressor in the way would make it hard to do, so I left put the mount on the replacement engine before installing....

Part of a multipart project. This is a N42/MN47 NA engine. I just finished it up and hope to do a longer test drive tomorrow.

here is the COTS solution (with minor mods) for the S bend that I hope will work out. looks good on the mock up test stand.

forgot the video

here is the latest, I have mocked the core support opening and have a possible solution to the S bend needed to go from the back of the AFM to the stock inlet pipe. I did not see that on your pic CGSheen1, I presume you used the OE inlet pipe, on my mockup there was no way of it connecting directly to the AFM with out the S bend. Anyway I will update later on my possible solution if it works out. If I can get that done the remaining items: Removed the AFM support perch, install rivnuts to it can be reversed later if I want to go back Make up the umbilical cord to allow running of the test stand from the cars harness directly. This eill be to test out my wiring, including starting, and tach readings. Fab some kind of air filter housing. I am leaning towards a stock housing with a modified outlet pipe to fit the 3 inch AFM. OR try to see if I can figure out a ZX housing. I really want a proper housing since I do not want to worry about rain etc.. on a cone type. After that the only remaining issue will be to pull the engine, and do the swap. I am not sure if I will use the MSA pipe or try to plumb from the down pipe back to the cat. I can not imagine a way to mock up that so it will just have to wait until I have the swap done. This AFM relocation effort so far has been the biggest hurdle, I hope I have my mock up measurements correct.

hmmm, did some more testing, put the bosch narrow band in, car runs like poo (goes super lean) back the the NTK, good to go. Guess the bosch is not the right one OR some cheap counterfeit deal. It was very low cost like 13$ IIRC guess you get what you pay for. The NTK was more like about 40$. I have the denso on the way, more video and testing to come when it arrives.

here is a new video, I am testing narrow band sensors, trying different brands to see if there is any difference. this is the NTK. I did fix the tach, it was set for a 4 banger on the previous video. Idle now is 750-800, idle up with AC vacuum about 1k.

Yes please do Yarb, I want to know what I am in for.

oh and take care when reinstalling the speedo and tach, its easy to scratch the plastic as you reinstall them if there are any burrs on the bezel.

its a nice looking dash, just make sure you install it as deeply onto the metal frame as possible. the mount holes allow for some movement, you want the dash as far back as possible to avoid spaces at the instruments and the sides where if fits next to the door openings. I had to tweek the instrument mounts a tiny bit to shove them forward just enough so there would be no visible gaps. the sides are not as important since you cant see the gaps unless the door is open, but if you are aware of the issue you maybe able to get the dash on deep enough to avoid any problems. I did not notice the door issue until after I had it installed, not a big enough deal to remove and try to shove back more on the metal frame. You will be glad when done. One last thing, work on the glove box door mounting area. check the OE dash materail thickness around the opening and try to get the same with the replacement dash. You may have to thin out some of the foam backing around the plastic where it cut open for the glove box.

One of the things I am looking at is to pull the AFM perch by drilling the spot welds and putting back some rivnuts (maybe covered this already) as a precursor to the swap. I am hesitant to make unreversable changes since my car is a survivor. With the rivnuts I can reinstall the perch with minimal changes if I ever go that way. From what I can see there are only a few spot welds and they seem to be pretty easy to get at. This way I can pull the perch, and then reinstall the perch with the NA setup, saving me time when I am ready to do the swap, I dont like having my car down even a couple of days. I still have to look into the wire harness (I want to run the engine from the car wiring, not the test stand ign switch) so test out my pump wiring and tach. once that is done i am pretty sure I can do the swap in a weekend by just removing the bolted on perch, and swapping the engine. The Air filter is another issue. I like using OE style filter housings, but I assume the NA would be too restrictive. So I either go with the cone type (fast) or invest some time into reengineering a ZX filter housing. Looks like some fab work to make that happen due to the lower core support hole for the pass thru. Again main goal is a swap that is reversible to NA to be able to preserve the survivor status. For now I am still playing with O2 sensors, I ordered a couple different brands just to see how well they work in closed loop. I have also been thinking about the stand alone again, and maybe even a later model ECU that has sequential port injection. OR make one of the kits, I have extensive soldering experience so not concerned about that as long as its all thru hole stuff. I presume the surface mount (if used) is preassembled.

yep that seems to be the issue the mount. I may end up carefully drilling the spot welds so I can reintall it back to NA if I ever want to. So I take it there is enough flex in the rubber pipe to angle up the AFM (looks like it has to come up a bit from the stock ZX location.

having fun with it. Yes the green LED does exactly what you described, After the engine warms up some the idle drops down to indicated 750-800 ish (I had to reset the tach, it was set up for a 4 banger). I like the way the fuel pump primes as well. I had a couple hurdles to overcome with odd stuff like the intermittent CAS, but over all so far so good. Biggest issue will be fitment into the S30 engine compartment for the AFM. would like to see what others have come up with on that. Most of the conversions seem to delete the AC compressor and/or use standalone aftermarket EFI, not requiring the AFM.

Just figured it was time for clean thread on this. I used a NTK25572 single wire O2 sensor for the ECU AEM wide band gauge and sensor for the read out Stock ECU, PRW-2 for the ignition transistor (and the correct transistor as well for testing). Aftermarket CAS (NTK) due to OE flaking out. the rest is all stock (turbo/CHTS/Knock sensor, Idle air control (vacuum modulator to control it), EGR.

taking a bit longer for the wide band O2 to get here, will update when done. I did use the color tune and got some video, but its too hard to see on the video to really be good for viewing. The color looked very good when in closed loop, should be interesting to see what the wide band says. I have been toying with how to deal with the AFM, one idea is to mount and the air filter infront of the core support then I can just route the air tube back from there, no worries about the perch. OR remove the perch (dont really like that idea) or just get the MS3 diy kit and make up my own. That seems to be the best solution and I may end up there. Anyway more to come...

nope

video to come after I get the tach installed, I want to make sure I can show the 2k rpm for the closed loop testing. I should be able to record that tomorrow. FYI if any of you guys are having issues or just want a ECU tested, let me know after I get that video done. You can send me the ECU and I will be happy to test it. Same goes for non turbo since I have both test stands up and running. Ship it to me with a return postage lable, I will put it on the stand and give it a whirl. I am setup with the early ECU (not the one with the warning sticker on the side) and the dizzy CAS turbo setup (not the early turbo). It maybe a while before I try to install the turbo engine. My plan is to 1st try the MN47 N42 combo NA setup. Just to see how it goes. I will clearly have some fabrication work to use the OE AFM equipment for the turbo as it was for a S130 not S30. The fitment of the AFM is going to be a challenge, especially if i keep the OE AFM perch in place. I dont recall every seeing this on any other conversion to turbos on the S30. Seems most just run a cone filter down at the intake of the turbo. I plan to make use of the stock filter location and have to work around an AC compressor. I have considered removing the stock perch putting in some rivnuts so I can always go back, and make up a custom perch for the turbo AFM. Like I said it maybe awhile, but thats ok I am enjoying the process.

Well good news! new plugs (old ones looked pretty fouled prob from idling for 45 minutes, New CHTS (nissan), New O2 sensor (NTK japan). made sure the fuel tank was elevated so pump did not have to pull up (was about 1 foot below pump before). started, ran great, green led started regular flashing in a pretty consistant manner (before it was flashing but very inconsistent in on off duration). Not sure which was the magic bullet, i considered doing one change at a time but WTH, I just wanted to see if it was going to work. Next up will be to get a tach on it (ordered it may as well add to the test stand).

yep, that is what I got it for as well. thanks for the heads up. and no charge for shipping too!