Dave WM

its easy just follow the FSM start with #1 TDC compression stroke. new chain will have two shine links to help with getting it setup up. You can see the bottom shine link on the av8 pic, lower link dot on cam sprocket.

fyi, another possible cause for low fuel pressure is clogged fuel lines, make sure your pump is not having to work too hard to get the fuel in the 1st place. the fuel should siphon thru the supply line when disconnected from the pump lnlet. If it does not you have a restriction. check this before popping for a new pump. There is also the possibility of poor electrical supply to the pump itself (thru wire and relays), check the voltage AT the pump. There will be losses along the way but you should still see at least 10v with the key on, engine off, pump running. It will prob be higher if you test with the engine running (since the voltage will be closer to 14v at the battery. I tested my by observing the voltage key in start engine off, using the start position with the solenoid disconnected to get the pump running using the start circuit. Make sure you have good solid hookups to the pump. 1975 Datsun fuel pump voltage drop - YouTube

you may want to take a hard look at the tail housing bushing while you are in there. Check for side to side play in the drive shaft where it goes into the trans.

and this would be why the 240z add on ac pretty much sucks. It puts the evap on the suck side of the blower and then has to direct air thru this tiny center vent duct. I remember my old 72 having that system, and it really was not very good as far as cooling.

interested in the new center duct diverter, hope to hear more about it later!

oh ok, I was thinking it was ok at one time and not now. typical of me not keeping up.

if you don't have a smoke machine a cheap cigar works very well, just puff into a hose attached to the brake booster port on the intake manifold. You have to plug up the front of the AFM 1st use a Styrofoam cup or plastic sheet or what every you have handy. A easy to miss leak is the fuel injectors o rings. they can come off while messing with the install. Anyway puff into the intake manifold and look for smoke, you should feel some resistance, but still be able to blow smoke in easy enough. Don't inhale the cigar smoke, it will make you turn green.

I would say its a problem if you have a left over snap ring. IIRC some kits include bearings that have a groove for a snap ring that is not used, but IF you are talking about bearing that did have a snap ring, and the replacement bearing has not provisions then yes big problem.

distributer. there is a port on the bottom of the throttle body, that is the "ported vacuum" it is not the same as "manifold vacuum". The ported vacuum should be connected to the distributer vacuum servo that is mounted to the side of the distributer. This vacuum servo is used to advance timing under certain engine loads. the ported vacuum line from the bottom of the throttle buddy goes to a T fitting, the two other sides of the T go to the carbon canister and the distributer. Now none of this will account for the problems you are currently working. But may as well get everything as right as possible. My guess is you have a multiple point of failure going on, which makes find the issue harder esp by guessing. So you need to systematically go thru every thing from compression to timing to fire order to fuel to EFI. One thing to not do is just start randomly replacing parts. You may get lucky and hit the target that way but you can just as likely introduce a new problem (like reversing the bullet connectors on the sub harness that connects the thermotime and temp sensors). Adding new variables making it harder to fix.

maybe covered already but did you confirm the pin 13 to ground resistance reading as read from the 35pin connector? Warning anytime you are disconnecting the 35 pin connector from the ECU or re connecting to the ECU, do your self a favor, ign OFF and batt neg disconnected (in case you forget to ign OFF). Testing at the 35 pin connector (NOT the ECU itself) is important as often you may have issues in the wire harness, so a sensor can be ok, but the message back to the ECU is corrupted.

oh and the carbon canister switch hose (small) does not belong on the dash pot nipple. that hose should go to a T fitting on the ported vacuum (shared with the dizzy vacuum advance).

I see an EGR valve, you have check for vacuum leaks with smoke I presume. The EGR is a sneaky one, it can jam open and show no smoke (well maybe eventually out the tail pipe). You may want to check that with a hand held vacuum pump, pull a vacuum and feel underneath to see if the diaphragm is moving. Warning if you decide to pull it off you may break bolts, they tend to seize to the intake manifold.

I would think with a peakier engine (if that is what happens) then it would be a good idea to make sure you can use all 5 gears for 90% of driving, so a 3.9 or even numerically higher diff would be a good idea. A stock engine with a heavy flywheel I think is fine with a 4 speed since the torque band is so wide, you don't need to keep the engine in a narrow rpm range.

I have heard the 3.9 with the zx trans is the stock setup, should be pretty good for overall performance.

yes I did, I get 70mph at about 2500-2600 rpm. 80mph at 3000 rpm (vs 4000 in 4th). Its pretty sluggish below 65 so I consider it only a highway gear. I try not to allow the rpms to drop below 2500 in 5th. Also I live it flatlands, IF you have hills, you may have to down shift even at 70 mph. This personally fits my driving style and area, but may be too tall if you want peppy performance in ALL gears. So its great for interstate trips, above 75-80 mph otherwise not much use. 1st gear was a bit taller than the orig 4 speed, but not so much as to be noticeable, I can still start off with no throttle, just ease the clutch and the flywheel is more than enough for it. Again hills would be different, perhaps a bit more of a challenge to start off up hill. This is from a ZX what is commonly called the "close ratio 5 speed", the .75 OD model.

you will find the forced air is not that forceful, esp out of the side vents. If you end up pulling the dash you can look into sealing up all the joints. there is a lot of foam wrapping that tends to come loose, perhaps to the point if large leaks. I did my best to seal everything up when I pulled the dash. I would like to think I have better air flow out of the vents, I tell myself that, but really not sure it helped. Lots of folks attempt various fan motor swaps, I think the 280z fan is about as much wattage the current electrical system can handle. IIRC it said 160 watts. The weak point IMHO is the fuse panel. the holders may not be it the best of shape, (weak spring/corrosion,crimp joints) which allows losses and heat (look for melting plastic both on the cover and the box). I have thought of putting a relay for full power setting, but decided it was just going to be too much changing of the OE system.

Carl glad to hear the EZ lift is working well for you. That one was the 1st one I was considering. I like the light weight as well as no need for all the hydraulics. I am I the process of revamping my garage after I get that done I will look into it more.

Nice looking car!

Next time you stop the car pop the hood open for 5 min, see if that resolves the hot start. Do you have an owners manual? The manual has a blurb about hot start may need you to apply full throttle during crank. are you running non ethanol fuel? I suspect since it got hot here if FL recently you are just experiencing the normal for 75's EFI woes. later models added vents and fans for a reason.

this guy has some good video

can you elaborate some on the exact issue? having problems is not enough. is it jamming, not going on at all? IIRC the 3 prong hub has to mate up correctly.

maybe its a valve cover gasket fail, oil dripping down to around the exhaust manifold. I don't see how oil could leak out of a exhaust bolt hole. Maybe some UV dye in the oil an then look with a UV light.

lower control arm inner bolt. See if it pops while making slow full lock turns. Make sure that inner bolt is tightened to spec. top strut nuts. both can make odd noises like this.

I thought that too, but would it work if you just back in? let the piston be on the rear of the car? I was thinking for trans and clutch need that open.

I like this too but it seems more semi permanent as far as being able to stow when not in use (I suppose I could just leave there and drive over it...). https://www.dannmar.com/car-lifts/specialty-lifts/dlr-6/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIt4HYyN6o7wIVdQWtBh3CRAflEAEYASABEgLQDPD_BwE