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Jmoyet

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  1. Yes I can stop it with my hands with some vibrations still happening. I've yet to change the oil on it might be something I'll be doing tomorrow on it. It's pretty much the only thing I haven't changed the fluids on. Hopefully it's not a failure in the making. If so I've been thinking about a 5 speed but still not sure if I wanna dump the originality of the series 1 240z.
  2. I need to get an app to disable the stabilizer on my iphone to see the actual amount of wobble/shake
  3. My iPhones camera stabilization is making it seem like there is less movement than what there actually is. In reality it moves a lot more about an inch more up and down. https://www.dropbox.com/s/5od3z6b7icirmwy/2016-05-06%2017.05.42.mov?dl=0
  4. The transmission is the only thing I haven't changed the fluid on I'll give that a go on my next day off. There's no chatter sound coming from it. Just while in gear under acceleration it moves up and down really fast.
  5. Yeah quick google confirms its the type of shifter to transmission setup which is what I have on the Z
  6. the shifter is pretty solid. almost 0 play up and down just side to side a little due to the early design of the bottom end of the shifter
  7. Here we go. This is what the part looks like without the shifter knob rod bolted to it. number 328-66 is where pin 328-64 goes through at the open end at the bottom connecting it to the rod that's in the transmission. Like I said very early design on the 240z's
  8. Engine mounts are good. I've inspected them in the past. This 240z barely has any surface rust. I've bolted everything down good when I installed new mounts and last week tried moving the transmission up and down where the driveshaft connects and no movement. So mounts are definitely good. I'm thinking it might be something internal. Only does it at 2nd and no other gear at any RPM. Mine does not have that plastic bushing at the base like other shifters it has an open end somewhat like a bracket at the base where a pin goes and has a metal pin going through it with a C clip connecting it to the rod that goes into the transmission. Iv tried finding a pic of it but this is the only one i could find. And at the middle pin there is 0 play at all. And besides that middle one wouldn't be the case since it moves up and down not side to side or at random directions.
  9. Mine looks like the one closest to the camera.
  10. First thing I did when I bought the car was replace the diff and trans mount. Did it before and after installing new mounts. No noises no "ill" effects from it that I've noticed. Just unusual to see a shifter moving up and down while still in gear during acceleration. New mounts iv checked the shifter mounts its the series 1 style before it got changed. I also forgot to mention it is a 1/71 Series 1. My trans mount bracket does not have that leaf spring looking piece on it nor looks anything like that but the mount itself looks the same. Funny cuz the one every auto parts shows has 4 bolts coming out of it had to buy mine from zcardepot. *Edit* I also bought those hinge bushings awhile back, took the center console all apart only to find that the shifter mount is completely different.
  11. Jmoyet changed their profile photo
  12. So as the title says is pretty much my problem. Now getting into more detail explaining the problem. Under acceleration it shift perfectly normal and accelerates fine but, under acceleration in 2nd gear the shifter itself wobbles up and down under acceleration, all other gears do it very minimal more so vibrates for the rest of the gears but 2nd gear you see it move up and down. Is this normal? Is this a sign of problems to come?
  13. I figured out what the problem was.. Badly warped drums along with worn strut mounts and a blown shock. Yeah I still got some work to do.
  14. Yeah when I had dropped the rear end to do the solid mount I thought of replacing all the mounts and bushings.
  15. At acceleration it's a vibrating. Let go of the gas it's like somebody with 2 hammers banging away at something like a drum roll. Think I need to replace all the bushings and such.
  16. So I got a solid diff mount and it did for my series 1 240z. Clunk went down but still clunks due to play at the axle hubs at the wheels. And replaced both u-joints on the driveshaft since it had a bad u-joint. Runs smoother but still clunk due to axle hub play and still rattles hard when letting go of the gas going above 60mph like something hammering. Checked the driveshaft it has no marks on it as all that would indicate any rubbing or hitting anything. So I'm still wondering what's causing the rattling/hammering

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