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Hi everyone, I put the bushings in a bowl of boiling water for a few minutes. Then I applied silicone lube and even then they just barely squeezed in-but they are in. I had to disconnect the steering lower joint and I stupidly forgot to mark it with some white out. Is there a trick to centering the steering rack before reconnecting the lower joint, or do I just eyeball it? Howard

Thank you everyone. I finally got the bushes after a two day delay delivery by UPS.? There’s nothing in the instructions about using any type of lube. Do these bushings install dry? Thank you. Howard

The shop is Automasters at 7925 Queenair Dr, Gaithersburg, MD. Tommy is the person who helped me. Howard

Build date in the metal plate is 8/74. Is that considered late? Howard

I just ordered this from Energy Suspension. Hopefully it fits tight. Howard

Looks like this is the type on my car. I don’t know if these are made narrower than the stock parts. Howard

Hi Captain: Both passenger and drivers side bushing have gaps on both sides-I can slide them. I’m assuming they should fit snug? Drivers side bushing https://1drv.ms/v/s!AtT8cDSGBCrZhip6qSS48Owlqjn0 Passenger side bushing https://1drv.ms/v/s!AtT8cDSGBCrZhinEXTl5PQazezWm Howard

I took my car to a shop for an alignment. They called after a few hours and said all they could do was set toe in, but they couldn't do anything else. They said that it seems my steering rack is loose and there is side-to-side play. He said either its not bolted tight enough or the two bushings are old and deteriorated. They shop didn't charge me but told me to fix the issue and then bring back the car for the alignment and pay at that time. I noticed that there is a bolt to welded nut torque, then a lock nut torque. I put a socket on the lock nut and it seems tight. Additionally the bolt is not a high torque value (19 to 22 ft-lb) but I'm going to loosen everything and retorque all of them. The steering rack bushings are new poly bushings. If I may ask the experts here on what else I can check that would cause such a loose feeling in steering rack? Track rod-end? I've checked all the bolts in the steering column (flexible coupling, pinch bolt, steering shaft u-joint pinch bolt) down to the gearbox and they are fine. This alignment was supposed to be the final step after 2.5 years of work to get this car road worthy and I thought I was done but now there is more work ? Howard 1974 260z

Ok thank you. I’ll give that a try. Howard

Hi, My plastic choke cable sheath is broken. The cable inside is fine. Does anyone have any suggestions for alternative replacement sheath? All the Z car parts houses sell cable and sheath together which I don’t need (and is expensive). Thank you. Howard 1974 260z

Thank you Howard

Hi, What do I do with the metal cylinder that came with my new throttle linkage boot? Howard ’74 260z

It seems that’s what happened as there is a kink or split in the jacket. I ordered a replacement. Howard

Would anyone know the screw size? I’ve bought so many bags of screws that wont work I can start my own screw store. Thank you. Howard 74 260z

Hi everyone: I thought my speedometer was broken so I removed it from the dash in anticipation of having it sent out for repair. I spun the drive shaft on the back of the gauge and it worked perfectly. So I thought maybe the speedometer cable was broken and I tested by spinning it and it and saw the other end spin just fine. I then realized that the square shaped head that goes into the slot on the back of the gauge was actually not long enough slot into the back of the gauge. I tried pulling on it with needle nose pliers but I can't get the cable to extend out any further. It's a steel cable so I don't think it shrunk any. I can't think of any other any other way to remedy this than to bite he bullet and order a new cable? Howard 1974 260z

I did bump the pedal and the idle increased by a couple hundred rpm when sitting at a light. I reached down and pulled on the pedal and it moved towards me (maybe 1/16th of an inch?) and the idle returned to normal. I see some slop in that plastic spherical bearing, but I can’t see anyway of replacing it. Howard

SOLVED!!! (And Happy Easter!) I just came back from a 30 minute drive and no more idle surge of any kind. I don’t know if it was the vacuum leak or the floppy unsecured throttle rod (or a combination of both) but the car is a pleasure to drive. I pulled plug 2 and 5 and if wondering if someone may provide feedback. I’m at 2 1/2 turns mixture on both carbs. Howard

Hi everyone: I haven’t had a chance to drive the car due to busy work schedule. However I did take some time to look at the mechanical parts of the throttle links. I checked both throttle return spring‘s on the SU’s and they are new and are very strong. The only thing I could think of is something is mechanically preventing the butterfly’s from returning to resting position, or unwanted air is entering the system. I did find missing pieces on the throttle arm. I believe there should be a spring, washer, and cotter pin? It was mentioned that a vacuum leak may be the cause of the surge to 3000 or 4000 RPM. I don’t have that many vacuum lines on my system. I have new lines coming off the brake booster to the balance pipe. I double checked those connections and they are good and tight. I have the vacuum line from the vacuum advance to the front carb. Hose is in great shape and connections are tight. Finally I have the heater control flap line also going to the front carb. I checked that and found the end had split. Apparently this tube is too small of a diameter to go on that carb. vacuum nipple. I have capped off that nipple for now. I’m going to run to the store for a spring and washer and cotter pin then take her out for another test run. I also turned the mixture screws up back to 2 1/2 turns each. When I was trying to set the the mixture it was about 30° outside. Now that we have some 60° weather the car started easily at 2 1/2 turns. I cleaned the spark plugs and once I have the above parts installed I’ll drive and report back with results in a few hours. Howard

Thank you I'll try this tomorrow Howard

I'll try it tomorrow and report bank Howard

Hi: I've been driving my car and adjusting the jets and checking the spark plugs after my first attempt at tuning the 3 screw SU's. When shifting gears the RPM will sometimes not drop and I have to blip the throttle to get it to go down. I have my idle set at ~750 rpm and timing at 10 degrees. My plugs show I'm running very rich and I'm four turns down on the mixture for each carb. Would the stuck/surging idle be a mixture issue, or would that be a mechanical possibility somewhere in the throttle chain? I did sync the carburetors at idle and at 3,000 rpm. Thank you. Howard '74 260z

I used the clear tube on the rear carb to check the fuel height and it seems I'm actually a little high by 1.5-2mm (I didn't bother adjusting the float at this time). I started the car with choke and the rear carb was backfiring until the car warmed up and I synced them using the (snail type) synchronizer. At roughly 1,040 rpm both carbs were synced to the 12 mark. I tried to get the rpm down to 750 but then the carbs would go out of sync with the front at 5 and the rear at 11. Lift the rear pin-slight decrease in idle to approximately 950rpm Lift the front pin-immediate stall Both jet adjusting nuts at 2.5 turns. I checked plugs 2 and 5 and both were black. I cleaned them but forgot to check them again before calling it the day. I will check tomorrow. Howard

Crazy busy last few days no time to work on the car until today. I did spray carb cleaner on both throttle shaft bushing and no change in engine rpm. Howard

David when I lift the pin for the front it stumbles then recover. When I lift the pin for the rear the engine dies.

OK i will do that