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Thank you! I was ready to put back the instrument panel and I felt bad having to leave out those parts. ?? Howard

Hi everyone, I have the refurbished heater valve installed. I’m just about ready to reinstall the instrument panel, however for the life of me I have no clue where these two parts go. I’m pretty good at taking pictures but I can’t find one pic that contains these two parts. Any ideas where they are installed? Howard ’74 260z

Hi everyone, Thank you for all the replies. I was searching online to see if anyone offered a downpipe that attached to the stock exhaust manifold. I called the zstore and inquired about their premium exhaust kit that has a downpipe that connects to the stock manifold. Good news is that they sell it separately for $55.95. I received it yesterday and just finished installing it a few minutes ago and as you can see from the pics it's a pretty good lineup. I will do as Zed Head suggested and install a resonator/premuffler, then connect with a band clamp from 2.5" to 2.25" Howard L

Hi everyone: My car has the stock engine with the stock manifold and the 2" downpipe. I don't have a premuffler but all the piping (aft of where premuffler should be) is new 2.25" pipe (this is how it was when I bought the car). As you can see in the picture the stock pipe does not line up with the new pipe. My guess is that the stock premuffler had an offset outlet? I was thinking about: A. Cut the stock pipe right before it starts the right turn and try fitting a straight pipe. B. Don't mess with the stock pipe and add a premuffler by removing some of the new pipe. C. Take it to a muffler shop and pay them to somehow connect the pipes. Any suggestions are appreciated. Howard 1974 260z

Hi everyone, I tried to prove Captain Obvious wrong but failed. With the a/c evaporator sitting there blocking the mounting plate for the copper tube it is impossible to access the screws. The dash was actually easy to remove. The heater valve is on it's way to Z Car Source of Arizona for direct exchange for a rebuilt unit. Siteunseen, I did have to purchase an offset ratcheting screw driver like the one you pictured in order to remove several screws.

Luckily the compressor isn't connected so I don't have to worry about freon. It's kind of amusing actually that I have to disassemble so much to access two tiny sheet metal screws.

Hi everyone,I have a leaking heater valve and I have to remove it to send it in as a core to get a rebuilt unit. The copper thermostat wire runs into the hot air housing and I am wondering if it's possible to remove stuff in front of it for access, or must I remove the whole dash board to disconnect that wire?Howard74 260z

Hi everyone: I have my headlights on a 5 pin relay with 87 +12v battery (with a 10A fuse on each), 30 output to LB/HB, 86 headlight on/off switch, and 85 ground to LB/HB dimmer. I noticed my rear side passenger marker light was out so I replaced it. But when I switch on the headlights it blows the 10A HB fuse. However if I replace the 10A fuse and put back in the burned out bulb into the rear side passenger marker light socket I don't blow the headlight 10A fuse when switching between hi/low beam. Don't the running lights route through the hazard switch and the headlights through the combo switch? I don't how how the headlight and running light would short/open one another? Howard 1974 260z

I connected the ground wires that were hanging loose and I have partial headlights-high beam only. (I connected the ground just like in these pictures). I double checked the 10A fuses on both hi/low beam relays and the low beam was blown. Easily solved I thought. I replaced the fuse and as soon as I switched on the lights the low beam fuse blew immediately. I have attached a rudimentary drawing of my headlight relay setup. I'm wondering if anyone may be able to identify a wiring error. Thank you.

I have no documentation on the upgrade but I checked the fuses and they are ok. I also tested the relays and they are ok too. This is a picture of the wires below the steering column. I have two black wires not connected. I have to look them up in the wiring diagram. I also see another relay. The relay base grounds out on the steering column, and the other pin goes to that white double connector. Howard

I purchased my 260z (build date 8/1974) with the headlight upgrade with separate relays for high, low, fog, and wash. I have working brake lights, hazard, and turn signals. I tested the wiring at the combo switch by testing the white/red wire with a test light and it has voltage (so wiring from fusible link is ok). With the headlight switch turned on I tested the solid red wire with the test light and it has voltage so that means my switch is good. The headlight power is coming off the positive starter bolt. Would I now test to see if the relays are bad? Howard 1974 260z

Wow thank you everyone for the information. Yes I was worried it was open to air. I will close them for aesthetics. Howard

I ordered brass plugs from Amazon and also tried the ones sold by Home Depot but none of them fit. The opposite hole has some sort of rubber plug. Any suggestions on sealing this hole? Howard

Thank you for the replies and information. Howard

Hi everyone, I see that some people refer to grounding to the frame/chassis. Then I see some refer to ground to the body/firewall. If the engine and trans or both are grounded to the frame, would one still need to ground to the body (shock tower, firewall)? Finally is 8 gauge insulated wire sufficient, or are the braided grounds straps better? Howard 1974 260z

Too long; didn't read oh man, I was so happy I thought I found the culprit. I will completely remove the brushes and check.

Hi everyone: Happy New Year! It's been a while as been been busy trying to tediously trace wires for opens and shorts. I believe I may have found the issue with the melted S wire. The yellow wire coming off the alternator and is spliced to go to the voltage regulator and to connector C-7. So I searched for my external voltage regulator and I couldn't find it, so I figured it was internal to the alternator. I opened the alternator and as you can see it has no regulator. I assume the PO upgraded the wiring in anticipation of an alternator upgrade but never got around to installing the upgraded unit. The yellow S wire is melted only from the T plug on the alternator to fuse link splice. The wire splice to C7 is perfect condition. tl;dr No regulator of any kind on S wire

Thanks. I also found a torn vent hose that attaches on the driver side of the tank and runs up into the rear compartment over to the passenger side.

Thank you I will check it. Howard

I'm going through the wires from the fuse panel and I found several wires (a green and a black one) from the the fuse panel leading into the engine bay not connected to anything. I'll have to determine where they should go, or if they are for removed components. I also found this diagram in the stack of papers showing the voltage regulator connection and the removed interlock. Howard

Beermanpete, I have the Hitachi alternator which I believe is stock. The po did upgrade the wiring with relays.

Thanks gogriz. Im reviewing testing the voltage regulator in the service manual.

Hi everyone, I discovered this wire had melted. As you can see from the attached pictures it leads to the T shaped plug that goes into the alternator. I can splice in a new wire but I'm clueless why this happened. I also found this blown 10 amp fuse in the fuse block. (Ignore the tissue paper I was just using it as background for photo clarity). Howard 1974 260z

Problem resolved! I disconnected the fuel line from the gas tank and nothing came out of the pickup nipple. I'm thinking there's no way this is all due to fuel below pickup level. I go buy a 5 gallon fuel jug and put it all in the tank. My guess is I now have 8 gallons inside. I remove the valve cover and work the rocker arm until I start hearing a squishing sound. I put the valve cover back on and turn the key-its starts. Five days of chasing my tail. Thank you everyone for the help and input.