theramz

Just my 2 cents. Maybe a moderator should be the one to call it dead.

I would have a real hard time living with myself if I made a widow and a few orpans just because I had the right of way. Not my fault, the stupid mf pulled out in front of me. Some of these comments seem to mimic racist/arogant attitudes.

There are three different shifters for the type B trans. One is a almost straight stick that is spring loded used in some of the ZX cars. The 4 speed and 5 speed have different lengths fom the pivot point to the ball end. You have to check closely to make sure the shift rod has full travel or it will slide out of gear on deceleration. I'm sure of this because i used a longer one in my close ratio zx transplant. First i thouht the trans was bad. As I was about to remove it I noticed that the part that tapers down to the ball end was hitting the edge of the shift rod socket. I ground a notch about 3/4 of the way up, front and back. Problem solved.

I think that's the switch for the backup lights. Put it in reverse and see if it closes. The auto harness has a lead to a switch that keeps the trans from down shifting into first when it is cold and a neutral switch.

You put the flex plate on first, right? Also if I remember right there is a spacer ring for the mt, better look that up.

Egad! what a stab. Time to get your insurance involved. Claim "Classic Car" damage and you want the car replaced because you have countless hours in the restoration. If you can't pull it off you can file suit against the other driver in small claims court for the difference. I think if you bring it home you will give up the rental car. Tell the ins co your going to get a lawyer. good luck

Now I think it's possible that with all that rust the throwout bearing is seized on the housing. Steel + aluminum+ moisture = battery. So the fork can still move but the bearing can't. Maybe you can look through the boot hole and see.

It could be that your master and or slave are bad. I use a mini-vac and a little bleeder kit from Harbor Freight ($4). I used it to purge the whole brake system and no music from the biatch dept. I did the clutch without even getting under the car.

Z cars are cold blooded. You could try the cardbourd block and or remove the fan completely.

Even undercoatings have to have something to stick to. The best way is to clean off the old stuff alll the way to good metal. Cut out a section larger than the bad area and use it for a template and make a new patch. Weld it in and coat it. New floor pans are expensive and more difficult to replace. If you don't have the right tools or sheet metal experience get someone to help you. Otherwise just schlep over it.

It does just pop off. To avoid breaking it spray some Armoral on it for lube. You could try warming it up with hot water on a rag. Push with your thumbs don't pry on it with any tools.

Fusible link means the material melts at a certain temperature. You can still get them from Nissan I think. You could replace them with an inline fuse if you don't mind being non stock. I think the fusible links are a little more forgiving on temporary surge loads.

First of all you need the correct FSM for the year. He didn't mention what year. The question was why his the warning light stays on. My light on my '77 was on and when I added fluid it went out. Just offering a posible simple solution to a problem without taking the car apart.

Your right it's not in the cap but they all have it. It's that little wire coming out of the junction on the frame just below the mc. If this wire is loose or the fluid lever is to low the light comes on.

Check your brake fluid level. The light will come on if it is low. The lever switch is a grounding switch so check for that too.