theramz

Just my 2 cents. Maybe a moderator should be the one to call it dead.

I would have a real hard time living with myself if I made a widow and a few orpans just because I had the right of way. Not my fault, the stupid mf pulled out in front of me. Some of these comments seem to mimic racist/arogant attitudes.

There are three different shifters for the type B trans. One is a almost straight stick that is spring loded used in some of the ZX cars. The 4 speed and 5 speed have different lengths fom the pivot point to the ball end. You have to check closely to make sure the shift rod has full travel or it will slide out of gear on deceleration. I'm sure of this because i used a longer one in my close ratio zx transplant. First i thouht the trans was bad. As I was about to remove it I noticed that the part that tapers down to the ball end was hitting the edge of the shift rod socket. I ground a notch about 3/4 of the way up, front and back. Problem solved.

I think that's the switch for the backup lights. Put it in reverse and see if it closes. The auto harness has a lead to a switch that keeps the trans from down shifting into first when it is cold and a neutral switch.

You put the flex plate on first, right? Also if I remember right there is a spacer ring for the mt, better look that up.

Egad! what a stab. Time to get your insurance involved. Claim "Classic Car" damage and you want the car replaced because you have countless hours in the restoration. If you can't pull it off you can file suit against the other driver in small claims court for the difference. I think if you bring it home you will give up the rental car. Tell the ins co your going to get a lawyer. good luck

Now I think it's possible that with all that rust the throwout bearing is seized on the housing. Steel + aluminum+ moisture = battery. So the fork can still move but the bearing can't. Maybe you can look through the boot hole and see.

It could be that your master and or slave are bad. I use a mini-vac and a little bleeder kit from Harbor Freight ($4). I used it to purge the whole brake system and no music from the biatch dept. I did the clutch without even getting under the car.

Z cars are cold blooded. You could try the cardbourd block and or remove the fan completely.

Even undercoatings have to have something to stick to. The best way is to clean off the old stuff alll the way to good metal. Cut out a section larger than the bad area and use it for a template and make a new patch. Weld it in and coat it. New floor pans are expensive and more difficult to replace. If you don't have the right tools or sheet metal experience get someone to help you. Otherwise just schlep over it.

It does just pop off. To avoid breaking it spray some Armoral on it for lube. You could try warming it up with hot water on a rag. Push with your thumbs don't pry on it with any tools.

Fusible link means the material melts at a certain temperature. You can still get them from Nissan I think. You could replace them with an inline fuse if you don't mind being non stock. I think the fusible links are a little more forgiving on temporary surge loads.

First of all you need the correct FSM for the year. He didn't mention what year. The question was why his the warning light stays on. My light on my '77 was on and when I added fluid it went out. Just offering a posible simple solution to a problem without taking the car apart.

Your right it's not in the cap but they all have it. It's that little wire coming out of the junction on the frame just below the mc. If this wire is loose or the fluid lever is to low the light comes on.

Check your brake fluid level. The light will come on if it is low. The lever switch is a grounding switch so check for that too.

There's no such thing as too many Zs. Your garage is to small!

If your car is lowered it could be a bind caused by the slightly longer axles. Or your hub has loosened up on the stub axle.

Yeah, your right. I should have been a little less vague about the results. You can drop the DS and rock the pinion flange. This does not give you a backlash reading, it only helps you make the decision to just change the oil and U joint or go through the hassle of pulling all the parts from the ds to the wheels on a car that has never been apart. Bandaid or complete R&R. If I found bearing chips in a diff I would change the oil and start gathering parts untill I could fix it right. JMO Tom

One more check would be to raise both rear wheels, (block the front of course) in neutral set the parking brake and rotate the drive shaft to check slop in the gearset. I would worry about those grindings in the oil. They are most likely from the bearings. A worn set of gears will sing at highway speed under light load and stop when you ease off. The rear wheel bearings will sound like a train car on the tracks, a constant that increases with speed. Clunking can be caused by U joints or bad bushings in the mustache bar or front diff.

You can drill it out to fit a short piece of 1/8 metal tubing and epoxy it in place.

I'm 21, for the third time! When I get in my '70, rev it to 5k and side step the clutch I''m back on the first time around! Bought my '71 back in '73. Most fun car I ever owned. After the older kids were in college I set out and found my #4884. I drove her home from So Cal to Reno and got a big smile and wink from a young girl. A little rusty and beat up and I've been working on her ever since. I now own 4 Zs and my '77 is almost ready for paint.

Check to make sure the breaker plate moves freely and returns. Check vacuum advance. It could be that the po solved the problem by tweaking the dwell and timing to get it to run but not very well. I think the a/t cars had dual points and an ecu that keeps the car from kicking down into first until it warms up.

It's only sheet metal. You can straighten it if you start at the point that the damage occurred last and work yor way to where it began. If your not sure take it to someone who knows how.

I know the '77-'78 cars with factory air have a different valve which is obsolete. Zman of Washinton sells rebuilts for $150. It is difficult to remove compared to earlier cars. I got one from the junk yard and repaired the leak with sealer because the inners were still okay. Since you don't want the a/c you can use any heater valve that will adapt. The heater core comes out pretty easy without removing all the controlsand dash parts, consult the fsm.

You don't get it that hot. Blue or even hay colored is too hot. For me the long cooler flame allowed me to gradually heat a larger area like the picture and watch the indent "grow", and quench it just enough to make it come back down. A localized hot spot will warp it unless you are doing very small dings and use a dinging hammer and a dolley. I had a larger bump on another car and the disc worked a lot better. When it shrank it went flat so I had to bump the crown back in. There is a guy selling 9" and 6" discs on ebay. I prefer the 9" (that's what she said). With the disc you quench on the outside.