theramz

The trick is a long cool flame and gradual circular motions around the dent. Heat the whole bump starting from the center and work out. As you do this observe from the side and watch to see it raise slightly. With a large wet sponge dab it from the inside just a little to see it go down. Let it cool the rest of the way by itself. You may have to repeat this a few times but be patient. If it turns blue you got it to hot and now it is to hard. Since your dent is up you should try to pop it in by smacking it with your palm. Another method is with a shrinking disc but it works about the same and is better with bumps. My roof looked like it got used for a trampoline!

I had a Mallory all mech advance and it performed well but with no vacuum you get almost near zero advance at a normal driving start so you have to ride the clutch a little more until the rpms come up. I changed it for a ZX E12 and it runs perfect for a stocker. By the way Mallory is now made in China even though the cap says USA on the inside. When I have a built up engine like you guys I will get an engine management system, maybe MegaSquirtnSpark.

Matching an original color is next to impossible without an expert eye and a perfect sample. Paint changes hue with age no matter where it is. A 2 stage is the best but your stuck with the end result unless you sand it all off. I was at Hot August Nights and looked at no less than 1000 cars. I saw some very expensive paint jobs with flaws resulting from poor prep work. Paint flaking off in corners etc. You have one shot at it so spend the time on the prep. Eastwood has a forum to help with all that stuff. I go to the auotmotive paint store for help and I'm sure your town has one with a guy that knows all about it.

I don't think the early paints were as effected by primer. My car is bue and the primer is red oxide. Maybe you could have a white primer tinted to make it really "pop". Your engine bay detail is over he top beautiful!! I would also like to have the plans for your rotisserie. Tom

I think that maybe the original colors were affected by the color of the primer. I would use a very light gray or even white for the gold. Even the correct mix would surely be different over medium gray especially in a single stage. jmo

I made my own a few uyears ago and just a note- the early cars were 3 MM thinner at the flange, not sure what year they changed but I think it was 73.

Yeah, the ZX had 1 throttle body so the tripples will have a different vacumm as will different cams. I figuered that the vacuum would be less with more carbs. If you don't have the right cam they will be to much carb anyway. You could test different locatons to compare vacuum I guess.

The ZX dizzy must have a vacumm advance hooked up. Take the cap of and make sure the breaker plate will advance and return freely. Hook up a vacumm tester and check the advance. If either test fails you will have to replace the dizzy. Reset your timing if it passes.

Maybe you aren't getting enough fuel flow from the pump. Remove one bowl and and crank the engine to check flow with the float in the down position. Put something under it to catch the gas so uou can measure the volume. Make sure the float is actually pulling the jet open when it drops.

I would try to duplicate the probnlem by raising the rear of the car and while in first gear, motor off, rotate one wheel back and forth as hard as possible and look at the various parts in the drive rain. It could be elongated holes in the diff cover or mustach bar. Bad mounts etc.

Not unless you want rear wheel steering without control! Be patient, get the right tools, do it right. It's easier if you have the strut and A arm on the bench.

You can heat the strut porton to help break the bond caused by corrosion. Cast iron expands more than the steel pin. Let it cool a little and add penetrating oil.

I took a piece of bar stock smaller than the pin and drilled the end to fit over the threads and deep enough to touch the shoulder behind them. I soaked the area with penetrating oil a few hours before and was able to drive the spindle pin out and not damage the threads. Make sure you remove the tapered lock pin first. If you leave the nut on just past the thread end you can give it a sharp rap and it will pop loose without mushrooming the threads.

MSA has a book on Webers.

I think that running so rich may have fouled the plugs. When you tried starting it it may have backfired slightly, eniugh to blow the cap off. If it was runnig on all six I don't think it is the dizzy. It also looks like you cleaned the outside of the carbs, not much help. If the floats are sticking it will overflow out the vent tube on top of the float bowl not into the engine. It is more likely that the pistons in the carbs are sticking and not allowing enough air in. You should be able to lift them up with your finger and when you let go it should drop smoothly. A common problem is the choke linkage sticking closed so make sure it is returned to the open position on the carbs.

Beware fellow eBayers! Always check your sellers and other bidders ID history! You will be surprised to find how many of them with (0) history got their ID the same or about the same day as the seller or even the same day the item went on sale. Coincidence? I don't think so either. Then there's the bider who has had his ID for 2 years and hasn't bouhgt or sold anything! When I come across these guys I email them and tell them I refuse to bid against (0) bidders. You will see this especially on cars and high dollar items. I once emailed a guy who sold a car to a (0) bidder telling him that if his buyer flaked on him I would buy the car. He emailed me the next day and told me I could have the car. I told him to shove it! Good luck, Tom

I'm not sure about the law in Aus, but you certainly would have legal recourse in the U.S. against the person who sold you the car if you can prove that they knew about the cover-up. It was obviously done by someone who knew the problem and covered it up. In a U.S small claims court they would be ordered to pay for the repairs or refund your money up to $5,000! God bless all of our sons and daughters at war.

That kid probably saved your life! As for parts, try Motorsport Auto 800-633-6331 or 714-293-5552. They have frame rails and floor boards. Good luck, Tom

what brand is it? do you have the collector flange? Any dents? smog? Thanks, Tom email thomasramsey@msn.com