vbgambini

never checked it. Just started to adjust it the way it was. Isnt that disc inside? I just started to adjust as the booster came.

Tried to replace the rubber front lines at least to the stainless ones I ordered but the nut started to strip, even using the flare wrench. So I stopped on that for now. As for calipers, eventually I will replace them as well. Just wanted to make sure I have everything else correct before doing that. As for the push rod, I messed with it so much before when installing the booster, really thought I had it right. But thats would I will check as son as I can. Can anyone try to explain to the best or their ability on how soft the pedal should feel? When I was installing the booster and MC I felt the pedal still soft. To me at least but I am also comparing to newer cars on how stiff they are. Thats maybe why I have the rod too long. MSA also asked to check the check valve too. Could that be the same issue as well? Im leaning towards the push rod though, but just seemed like when I had it adjusted before it seemed fine.

Update Took the Z out today for a little drive after a few weeks of it parked in the driveway. Last time I drove it is when I installed a new brake master cylinder and booster. Drove fine for about 10 minutes, then I started to smell a burning scent. Thought it was just because I havent driven it in a while but then it continued. As I drove a little more the pedal became stiffer and stiffer. So luckily I was close to home and as soon as I pulled into the driveway, the pedal got very stiff. Same feeling I got before the master and booster were changed. Checked the handbrake, it was fully down, and now it barely can move like as if the handbrake was up. Felt like the brakes were binding or seizing up. History of the brakes are, front pads replaced, rear driver side has new shoes, passenger side had pretty good meat on it left so I left it. New master cylinder bench bled to the best I can, and new booster. Bled the system many times as well. Front calipers are still original I believe. Now it just seems like the brakes are stuck not letting me move as if the handbrake was engaged. Any ideas what to check? I remember when changing the front pads, one of the caliper piston rubber seal did not look too good. Could it be that? Smell seemed like it was coming from the front, but not fully sure. Did not seem to lose any fluids, did not see any leaks on the driveway. Help would be appreciated.

KDMatt no man the more info the better! Keep it coming lol. Thanks for helping me out. I might have to throw the vise grips on there and see. And see I am still confused with that picture because that looks like the inside of the booster right? In order to get those parts in the picture. Sorry for being stupid on this but what I am picturing in my head is a disk that goes on top of the adjustment rod that goes into the master? Am I wrong lol. Should I check my old MC and booster? From what I remember nothing slipped out when replacing it. As for pedal feel I feel like I have to push down maybe like an inch or more till car starts to slow down. But when I am going like 30-40 mph and not a full slam on the brakes but a good heavy foot it stops pretty good. Jerks to the front of the car pretty solid. Or in that picture that black piece al the way to the left goes into the master? Im so confused lol.

Thanks for the response! Yea my brakes felt very spongy and eventually had no brakes. Since the front 2 flex brake hoses had cracks in them, I might as well change them to SS lines. So I ordered 4 SS lines. So I figured it was the booster so I decided to change it and while I was there to do the MC as well. They were both in bad shape, seem to be original parts. Have any picture of what the reaction disc looks like? From what I read it is in the booster itself and not an external piece. Would it be stuck in the old MC? I mean the car stops pretty good now but would want it to be tighter and more firm. Do you feel pressure as soon as you press the brake pedal or does it have to be pressed im guessing an inch or two till you feel it? I had to adjust the rod in he booster plenty of times (such a pain) to get where I am at now. But it is definitely more than 10mm like the FSM says it should be. But the brakes feel pretty good. Just want it better. As for the adjustment on my rear drums, they seem pretty good. Hand brake goes up 5-6 clicks. I adjusted them a while ago. Yea I plan on painting it soon. Will high heat spray paint do the trick? Now I have these rounded brake nuts when trying to put in the SS lines and stuck for now. Had to duct tape the crack in the rubber hoses lol.

hmmm I might have to try vice grips again. I did try once and it didnt seem to work. They were small needle like grips. Should I try bigger ones? Any trick to it or just stick on there and turn?

Any technique here or just sticking on a vise and turning? Sounds like a good idea. Never worked on hard brake lines before so I want to get this right. If anything a shop can bend them correctly right?

Update! Tried to put on my SS brake lines in for the front, but when getting the old metal hard brake lines with a flare wrench, they rounded off. So now the flare wrench cant hold on. My question is how long of a brake line will I need from the brake hose to the master cylinder? Is that hard line even going to the MC? I want to change the hard line that goes from the hose to the caliper as well, and it seems Z Car Depot has an 8'' one I need. But Z Car Depot has 20-40'' of hard brake line that im figuring for the other line that goes into the engine bay. Which do I order? Never done hard brake lines before and how to bend them. They say you can just use your hands and will not kink. Is that true? Or should I get it done at a shop? But I am worried they wont have the fittings like stock to fit my SS lines. Thanks guys.

Will try that then. That wont ruin anything by just turning the rod right? I mean the pedal when not pressed is pretty much all the way up against the brake light switch. So I doubt I need any adjusting right?

Update of what I went through: Dish soap heled! Installed everything pretty much today. But still have to install my SS lines. I know the rear brake hoses are pretty new, fronts do look like they need changing. So far no leaks seen anywhere. - I had to pull out the booster so many of times to line up the brake pedal inside the car to fit the pin that holds onto the brake pedal and adjust and adjust and adjust. - Bench bled the MC as much as I can. - Bled all 4 corners. - Had to adjust the push rod longer a few times because brake pedal felt so spongy. Seems like it is more than 10mm like FSM says. Pumped the brakes with the car off and felt stiff, then when I started the car with my foot on the brake it fell just a little like it should. -Finally got it a little better but for some reason I feel it is still not firm enough. I also feel after I let off the pedal it comes up slowly with a little hesitation at the top top. But I still feel it is pretty spongy. How firm is the pedal to feel when the car is started? Should I bleed the MC again in the car? Is there a way to adjust the pedal inside the car without having to remove everything all over again (Cant spin the adjustment fork without the pedal in the way)? Too much free play? I would like these brakes to feel as stiff as my newer car and jeep (02 and an 05) Or is it not going to feel that stiff in these older cars with drum brakes? BTW My ebrake goes up 6 clicks like it should so I didn't mess with adjusting the rear drums again. Im lost right now. What should I do?

Cool. Thanks man. Yea Im just talkng about the base of the rubber that slides through the firewall. Not the accordion part.

Cool. I know I have a high temp lithium grease will that help? I have anti seize and hopefully some brake caliper grease. Those will help?

Good to know. How about a little WD40 to slide it in? Would that hurt the rubber boot?

Looks more like the one on the left. Just not in that black color. Its all gray. Its slightly bigger. Like a couple inches bigger. Seems like a 10'' booster. I also dont have that spacer. And the studs that go into the firewall on the new one i got are still short, not long like the one on the left. Pretty much the firewall studs are the same length as my old one. The one in the picture on the left seem way longer. Will mine still work if I can get the old nut to thread through the stud? I believe the production date is 5/78. Black dragon says even having an attempt to put on the car voids a refund or exchange so Im trying to get as much info before I take a shot at it. UPDATE!!!! Ok. Had a few minutes to check the car again. I still do have the spacer. It was fused to the old MC but not a problem to break free. Tried to test fit the new booster. Seemed like it'll go right in, just having trouble pushing it through the firewall since the rubber is preventing me from being totally flush. Could I use grease to push it through the firewall hole? Its like a 1/4 of an inch from getting all the way through. Now if I can only get the old nut to just screw in the top stud for the MC I should be golden. Any ideas? It screws in the other 3 just fine. I dont think its worth sending back and waiting for a new one when it only has to turn a few times. Maybe some washers?

Yea I know lol. Had you on the other forum. Need more help on the other issues Im having. Anyone chime in?