260DET

Pretty bad fit eh. You may have to almost cut right through the ends so they can be bent to shape and then repaired. Hard to tell exactly what will have to be done but its fixable. Fibreglass repair kits are available, a fair bit of work but not much expense to get it right. Like the shape of that spoiler. Did you buy it on ebay?

SOLD it for full price, $1250. Quite a bit of interest, look after the Zed, they are getting scarce

Thats good, plenums with runners are technical things to design, particularly to get uniform airflow to each cylinder. The only general suggestion I have to make concerns battery placement. The Zed, unlike most front engined cars tends to be arse heavy, yours almost certainly will be so.

Looking good Robert, very good, like the rubber bushes you adapted for the engine mounts particularly. The extra Xmember will help the car structurally as well, may assist stability under heavy braking. Your turbo exhaust pipe routing idea seems sound, easy to run a dump pipe from the former battery space too. With the plenum, just basically an airbox is required with that engine, no individual runners there?

Hows this job going? Pics so far are great

Autosol is very good, protects as well. Use just a tiny amount, I've had a tube of it for years. But if the chrome is buggered................

Bit expensive for a 180, as others have said most of them have been belted, suffered from mostly well meaning mods and are getting a bit old for the money. They are a great drivers car and will outhandle a S30 stock, no doubt about that. The S30 needs a lot of work to make it handle really well and even then won't be better than a well sorted 180 with a lot less spent on it suspension wise. It comes down to what you want in a car, your decision

Crank harmonic balancer? Seen plenty of problems with the stock item literally falling apart, a lot of this may well be due to the age of the component concerned. But the ultimate solution seems to be to use a different type, Stewart Wilkins in Sydney for one supplies a special, based I believe on a BMW item. I'd assume that something similar would be available in the US.

The aluminium foil faced material is good, depending of course upon its quality, the face is easy to clean, non absorbant and heat reflective. I'd go to a specialist insulation place though, they are around, there are even insulation type paints available.

Great pics, what happened to the side glass? :cheeky: This one is of my part time road registered racer, passed the Ferrari shortly afterwards by holding a tight power down line onto the main straight. Works nearly every time, harass their expensive car and then they try too hard QR sprints tracktime 28-5-05.bmp

Paint it, if the surface is oil etc free. Also when the engine is running the oil runs down into the sump more quickly, plus the paint helps to seal and secure the surface.

Mine look to be zinc plated. Maybe your plating was perfectly preserved by some grease, oil?

OK, organised at last, here is a link to the ad for the shell on the club's website http://www.zcarclubq.org.au//index.php?act=ST&f=2&t=63&st=0#entry128

Don't think that we are in disagreement then Alan, as long as people recognise the limitations. I just don't want to see people waste their expensive engines by trying to save money that is well spent. And quality dyno time is always well spent. BTW, can anyone explain this apparent US fixation with O2 sensors? Its bulls*it for a hi-po engine, absolute bulls*it

Decided, finally, to put a price on it, $1250.00. Thats bare, no bolt on bits like guards, Xmembers etc. Price is firm at the moment, if it doesn't sell it will be reduced then. Will do some decent pics of it and put them on my or the clubs web site in a couple of days time, sprints are on tomorrow The clubs ads site is worth a look, here http://www.zcarclubq.org.au/index.php

Still don't see how you can properly tune anything without a dyno. A car can drive well and seem to have good power yet put it on the dyno with a air/fuel ratio check all the way and it can be found to be way out. Which can be absolutely crucial, particularly with a hi-po engine, even more so with a turbo. BTW,an O2 sensor facility is only required for some fine tuning aimed at reducing emissions at low engine speeds. Thats it, superflous otherwise.

Can't suggest anywhere in WA, but one thing, Repco are ummmm, expensive for brake parts. Try a specialist brake parts supplier to the trade.

Being someone who believes that the only proper way to tune fuel delivery is on a dyno, I'd suggest you should consider who is going to do that. In this country we have heaps of aftermarket ECU's that will do whatever you want, don't forget the ignition aspect which really should be tuned in conjunction with fuel. Then again IMHO any fairly decent fuel injection system is better than carburettors.

It would be great if someone put together a book on the racing Z cars, particularly the Japanese ones with detailed information on factory variants, numbers made, etc. Not only for interests sake but also for a very practical reason. Which concerns the eligibility of certain variantions and equipment for historic based competition events. For example, targa type events are very popular in Australia, quite a few S30's participate but it is very difficult to establish what they are eligible to use in the way of improvements over standard. Consequently they are often up against other optioned up cars but still do well, eg second in the very popular Classic class this year, around 130 cars in that class. See the standard looking Donut King car, about half way down on the right, pic too big to display here http://www.targa.org.au/Targa_2005/PrimaryMenu/News_and_Media/Image_Gallery/2005_Event_Images/2005_gallery_media_day5.php

Don't know about RedLine but mine has Castrol Syntrax in it, a full synthetic. There is also a Syntrans but in the warmer climate here plus it cops a bit of a belting so the made for transaxles Syntrax was chosen. So far everything including the syncros has held together.

The next set of road tyres the Zed gets will be the softest ones available, simply because it doesn't get much road useage and they will never wear out. The present Falken GRB's must be eight years old and recently survived 190kph, but they must at least be getting hard by now. The good thing is that decent new tyres in 15" are relatively cheap compared with the bigger diameter fashion ones

Thanks all for you comments, appreciated, I'll put a price on it soon and get back to those who have inquired.

Would not sell it for $500 here are a couple of pics.

My bet is on the steering coupler shaft where it attaches to the rack, the split splined connector. If the bolt is not tight there the splines could slip and jump. Although if thats the case the steering wheel will likely get out of position.

Not trying to boost the value of what I've got, but in the last year or so used bits like struts that I've wanted to buy have got harder to find and more expensive. Talking to a bloke who did Targa Tasmania in his S30 and apparently four of them ran off the road sustaining damage. So most of us keen ones are probably getting a spare set of suspension components at least just in case. But my shell must go, need the under cover space for the next project.