260DET

Sometimes I think that you Murricans are spoilt for choice.

They look ok to me, functional if not pretty. Make a statement, get them chromed.

Steven, your proposed test sounds interesting, let us know the results if you can. On air flow over the hatch, the difference may be that over the bonnet the air is physically forced to speed up and hence lose pressure, while over the hatch air merely moves in to fill a lower pressure area. The bonnet being the forcing physical object therefore is subject to lift, the hatch is passive in that regard. But there is a fair dose of conjecture in this. Beandip, good stuff but are you sure that the Z had pressure on the bonnet? The usually accepted situation is that there is lift there, eg see Steven's and my posts.

Yes Steven it is interesting and I have some reservations about the ZCCW information. I'm not convinced that air moving down the back of the hatch would be significantly low pressure. After all it has already been accelerated when passing along the bonnet so it surely is still not accelerating by the time it reaches the hatch. The air rushing in to fill the space behind the car is somewhat different, it is turbulent too. But anyway, as I said, there is no problem with my car there so..... IMHO it is at the front where gains are there to be made, just consider air flow through the radiator and its exit for one.

Well mine has a whale tail on it with a small air flap (Gurney lip) and it is rock solid at 200+ kph. :classic: And are you sure that the hatch surface induces lift anyway? It is not the same as the bonnet surface, there air is being forced to speed up and so lose pressure which induces lift.

I'ts going to likely mess up your airflow around the rear something awful though. Lots of drag and any spoiler probably won't work well. Much better to leave it clean and use a spoiler IMHO.

Is that your garage, DM?:cheeky:

Basically the Black and Red Flames design, providing it follows the swoop line along the back guard.

No great problem with the spook type spoiler, Marty, it is just that the scraper type seem to work a bit better and are more suitable for attaching an undertray/splitter.

The factory is about 30 minutes away from me. Had mine done about four years ago and it hasn't deteriorated at all, although the car isn't in the sun much. Other locals who have had theirs done are usually happy, occasionally the fit of instruments causes some problem but that is about it.

Don't know what humidity you get in Perth but in Brisbane fans are a must on a humid day. Ceiling fans are cheap and don't take up any floor space.

I thought that French cops were called 'flics', a sort of friendly name. Anyway, sounds like they need sending off to Iraq to give them some proper police work to do.

On the wiring up question, the easiest way is to use an aftermarket ECU and wire it up according to instructions. Things that are controlled by the ECU like injectors, ignition, fuel pumps, etc. You need a basic knowledge of car electrics, a few tools and a bit of patience. Doing a separate sub-loom with a fuse box is simplest rather than trying to work it in with the original loom. And don't forget to make up a simple wiring diagram of what you do so that you can refer to it some time in the future if you need to. The rest of the electrics is handled by the original wiring loom eg starter, alternator, etc.

There are still one or two places left for our performance driving day at Morgan Park Raceway, Q, on Friday 6 Feb. Individual tuition and a written assessment, great day for $280. And, you can go as fast as you want.

Trying to think laterally, Superlite in the UK may be able to do wheels to suit. Then there is always Performance who make the minilite type. The car would look better with 15" IMHO.

Yeh, you're right the 'speed kills' mantra is utter bullship. No seriously, that campaign is insulting to any remotely intelligent and free thinking person. You drive according to the circumstances, just like you make personal life decisions according to the circumstances. I hate, that is HATE, governments that try to brainwash.:mad:

Maybe because it is a legal requirement?? In that situation the question makes sense.

Drilling holes in strategic places so that rust preventative can be sprayed in is the usual go. Then as you say use rubber plugs to seal the holes.

Certainly agree about the, ummm skill, levels required to get a licence. But it is not that simple. How do new drivers gain such skills? That is part of the problem and something that the government should be doing something about, using speed camera fine money to do it. Don't agree about the necessity to always keep to the open road limit though. Your speed should be related to the situation not some arbitary figure, which is some situations may be too high anyway.

Mine doesn't get driven as much as it should because some dickhead is always messing around with it. No seriously, Mr Fussy has just about got it right now, a half roll cage to get rid of the rear creaks and body flex and that should be about it. But it is bloody great to drive, now, except in the hot weather. No air con here, this car is stripped for performance. Very difficult to tell what speed it is doing, over 200kph does not seem that fast, until a corner comes up. It has a racing type seat, enhances the Z experience. But most of all I love the turbo engine, spool me up Scottie, we are about to go into orbit.:devious:

I'm ok with the 60kph limit in built up areas, providing it is well signposted which it quite often isn't. But the max open road limits are nonsense usually, around 150kph would be a lot better. I don't feel safe driving the Z at say 100kph with a semi right up my backside, at 150 I could probably keep ahead of him. And not go to sleep from boredom at the same time.

Apparently brake rotors are being exported by China and opinions on their quality vary considerably. Lets put it this way, suppliers should state the country of origin so we can make our own minds up.

Well the differential is located on the front rubber mount and the rear mounting bar which bolts to the back of the diff. Forgot to mention the tailshaft which would be a different length. How about you compare the parts mentioned above to those from a later model, or have a look at a later model? There is/was a Z car club in Holland, too. BTW Damain, your English is better than my Dutch.

Interesting point Steven, you may have something there. I've got rid of the bump steer on mine too, essential for nice handling. TomoHawk, you start with the suspension and steering in first class condition. In view of Steven's point this includes no bump steer. Then lower the car all round but with a bit of rake. Fit a modern scraper type front spoiler, not a spook or similar, I've seen a US one that I would love to have. Rear spoiler as well. That will make a hell of a difference. Other things to do include a fully adjustable front suspension particularly for more caster, bonnet air exit vents and a front undertray.

Not quite sure but I think you have to use the later rear mounting bar and front rubber mount. One thing I've found around here is that if you are wrong you soon get corrected.