260DET

While the first gen cars are old tech as far as aerodynamics go, in my experience they respond very well to the mods mentioned previously eg the nose lift problem is quite easily fixed. Having driven my '77 at over 200 kph I can report that it is rock solid at high speed, has excellent directional stability, yet still turns nicely as required. But the proper work has to be done to get them that way.

The usual stability enhancing mods should help, front spoiler, lowered with a bit of rake, rear spoiler, tight steering and suspension, right tyres, maybe more caster - mine is 5 degrees plus. That run sounds like a good test.

Halz has had some fun so now he must pay.

Looks like it has had a whack. A spare 260 one I have is as Victor says.

Lots of resolutions. Get more track time in, get the suspension finally sorted, fit the upcoming new hi-po engine, get bb turbo and 300 rwhp, fit a half cage to get rid of rear body flex, perfect heel 'n toe downchanges....... But # one, enjoy the bloody car.:classic:

Thirteen, for the front and to start with, caster can go up to 5 degrees, camber around 3 degrees negative assuming you are using race radials. For the rear, camber around 1.5 neg. All to start with. I would have the springs the other way around ie the 300's at the front, assuming you are using stock 260 anti-sway bars. Ride height may be dictated by your suspension components eg available shock bump travel, suspension arm angles, etc. Ideally it should be just high enough that it doesn't hit anything underneath but make absolutely sure that you always have bump travel available. That should give you a ball park package although with 350 springs on the rear, the stock sway bar may be a bit heavy ie you may get a bit too much oversteer. Let us know how it goes, good luck and enjoy.

Yes the heat would expand the petrol in the bowl and may cause the engine to flood. Hard to hot start? Flattening the accelerator when its cranking over could help. You reckon your car gets hot? With the turbo the paint under the bonnet of mine blistered, before some al heat shields were added and the bonnet vented.:classic:

OK if the carb bowls are getting that hot do an additional heat shield. Looks like you could fit one under the carbs. BTW how do you get such good pics?

Does the fuel system recirculate? If so, the electric pump will be constantly pushing fresh petrol through the fuel lines, in which case there should be no vapour locks. My '77 had that sort of stuff Carl mentioned wrapped around the lines so I guess that Nissan thought they were vulnerable. Your heat shield looks pretty good, Justin, but with the carbs sitting above the exhaust and no way for the hot air to rise out it is basically a design problem.

A vented bonnet helps too, trouble is the 260 vented bonnets are a lot heavier than the non-vented 240 ones.

Coilovers? What coilovers???

$750!!!! For that price I'd keep it, providing there is a receipt. No legal advice here but IMHO if you have paid for it and believe that the seller had title then stuff em. If the going gets too rough you can always do some sort of deal later, for $750 it is hard to see that anyone is going to take legal proceedings here. In the meantime you can look for another, can't have too many of them.

If you were in Brisvegas I'd suggest Albion Clutch Service who do a lot of competition stuff. But seeing you are not I won't.

Removing the bypass valve and plugging the passage, without otherwise changing the lubrication system, seems to be quite common. I have never heard of a resulting problem, in a semi-tropical climate.

Brian, I have little idea of the classes you are talking about but you did mention fitting a RB26DET engine. If there is an under 2 liter turbo class a SR20DET engine may be the go. They are light, reliable and can do very respectable hp. Only on an outright power track would the 26 have an advantage, on a tight track the 20 could well be quicker. My experience with the first gen cars is that they respond very well to brake and suspension modifications and so do better in classes which allow such mods.

If you are a bit handy you may be able to do the cushion part yourself and get a pro to do the rest. Clark Rubber for one sell the cushion stuff like foam cut to size and the Pirelli webbing too I think. The original covers on my seats were good enough to only require new inserts and that did not cost a real lot. Of course you remove the seats from the car yourself rather than pay someone else to do that.

On the rubber bits, the Old Auto Rubber Co, 148 South Pine Road, Enoggera, Q 4051, 3354 2053, will very likely have what you want. I have bought some stuff from him in the past, BTW he also sells some very nice custom made aluminium gear lever knobs. On the fumes, believe it or not mine used to be a problem but is no longer. Must have been something incidental I did, maybe the rear end of the exhaust sticks out a bit more.

There are standard type rubbers available which may do the job, you buy them to the length you want. May not be available in Townsville, Clark Rubber carry some but not the full range, or else check with a motor trimmer.

Can you still buy DOT 3 in the US? Can't here, it's all DOT 4, the containers mention 3 and 4 being compatible.

Would there be space for you left hand drivers to relocate the brake lever on the left side of the transmission tunnel? Further forward than stock with the lever around vertical? It must be a bit awkward where it is for you wrong side of the roaders, I'd be looking at changing it too.

Ended up with an aluminium/plastic Nissan Navara job. Have to 'relieve' the frame rails a bit to fit it in, inlet is top right, outlet bottom left to suit the FJ engine.

Performance brand have a couple of four stud styles available for around $200 each.

Just make sure that it is straight and the rust is not excessive. A bloke I know bought a nice looking 240 a while back but the bloody thing is bent, it crabs on the road. Which is easily seen when following it.

Yes, I'm after a common useage, soft mount aluminium radiator. Lighter and unlikely to be damaged due to body flex. The fat 260 has to lose weight and the stock radiator is at the absolute limit during hard summer use. A late V8 Commodore could be the go, back to the radiator man tomorrow.

Anyone replaced the standard type radiator with an aluminium one from from a late model car? At present I'm looking at using a VP Commodore radiator which is about the same size but will require some fabrication work re the rubber mounts. What I'd really like to know about is any common aluminium radiator that will fit in the available space and cools more effectively than the stock Z one.