260DET

Zeds are doing well in competition, those non-owners with knowledge admit that the Zed is a good car. 1B6 is right, to put it more crudely its snobbery. I call them Eurosnobs, you have the German snobs and their overpriced, overengineered deutchwagens, then you have the British car snobs. Even though most British cars are rubbish compared with the Zed. Japanese cars are broadly associated with the lower end of the motorsport social scale, therefore their value is tied to that. But I don't care, love porkin the Porka's

The 240/260 certainly seem to have gone up in demand and price in the bloody hot, errr, 'sunshine' State. The Eurosnob cars are still big, the Murrican and Aussie muscle is popular with the show'nshine crowd. But competition use of the Z is booming and some of them are no expense spared big dollar cars. Some of their suspension systems are costing more than a really good entire car. In fact it seems that most Z owners now are prepared to put money into their cars whereas not so long ago bragging rights went to those who took pride in spending the least

Love it losing traction over the humps on Conrod Straight, scarey :eek: If any Nissan stuff comes up I'll post it.

Listen for the rising engine revs with a loss of traction down Conrod Straight at close to 300kph, the earler part is over the crest of the mountain, nowhere to go if you get it wrong. Anyway, enjoy, even if there are no Nissans http://www.shoalhaven.net.au/~motorsport/rof/page8/movie003.wmv

Andrew

The front pair I bought had the late model larger diameter strut tube. They were converted to coilovers, so the type of the bits removed is unknown; and then went on the '77 coupe no problems.

Anything that can be mailed to the US is ok, the thing is that such a panel if available couldn't be posted and the air carriers won't pickup unless you have an account with them. Last time I checked, because I was going to send a RHD part to Canada, when the would be buyer was told of this he accused me of trying to rip him off, effing wanker. Anyway Jeff what RB are you putting in, a mate of mine has a RB30ET in his, its going to get a 25 head soon too :devious:

$300, thats door to door delivery via executive jet

Doubt that would be a practical proposition for you or the supplier Jeff. Packing and freight would be very expensive. Plus any sort of decent body in Oz would not be cut up, its worth too much. Looking at US wreckers online it would be cheaper to get what you want in the US it seems, best of luck anyway

Aaaaagggh!!! It won't open, 'unable to load graphics conversion filter' message comes up. Probably blocked by Windows firewall?

You don't have to take the flywheel, just use a sheet of light cardboard and make an impression on that of all the stud and dowel holes on the flywheel

Thanks Gavin, any advance or retard on $40??? Going, going...........

Its doubtful that the inner frame part of the door, or part of it, would be available new. If its rusted at the bottom I'd look at shaping a suitable piece of flat panel steel and welding it in. If it requires much more repair than that then s/h doors would be the go.

Have a pair of these in good condition, all of the attachment studs are ok, which a friend wants to buy. Don't want to rip him or myself so how much?

Well done! The suspension, and your driving, must be pretty good to do what you did in the rain and on slicks

Another alternative is to instal the complete rear end from a Skyline, Z32 or Silvia. By 'complete' I mean the subframe with all the rear transmission, diff to hubs. You may want to consider changing the front hubs to five stud to match the rears at the same time. This has other advantages too, bigger rear brakes and readily available aftermarket suspension goodies. This sort of conversion has been done before and is not that difficult, comparatively.

Using a flexible shaft screwdriver? No, you couldn't put sufficient pressure on the handle without it all wobbling around. Note that a 30mm high aluminium spacer was used under the bottom of the shock insert. So I just cut a slot in the bottom side of the strut base so an ordinary screwdriver can be used, at an angle. That works ok, its not like you are going to be changing the setting all the time.

Shhhhh..... Secret Squirrel :tapemouth

That Intense Blue is a good mid shade that shows up the Z's great lines through different angles.

The Koni 8611-1257 front inserts are on and working well, the present setting is six clicks out on the bump and its nice and firm, although it probably could go a bit more for the track. Mine has 275F/300R springs too, with 22mm front 16mm rear anti sway bars, which seems about right. What bars are you blokes using?

One way to look at the question is to think what shows the Zeds lines off best? Not just the profile but the swoops and curves. A mid shade metallic seems to do that best, white the worst. Mine is a mid shade metallic green but you could do blue, grey, red, most colours. The sun on mine really shows the lines off yet it looks understated. On the avatar you can just see the upper door line running through the center of the #9, the top of the bonnet is black. If you'd like to be more noticeable go red, electric blue, orange...........

Your pics look similar to the one off my '71 parts car, it has the outlet in the same place, is marked 'NABCO JAPAN' on the right side and '5/8' on the left side. IIRC Nissan used a couple of different makes of master cylinders, etc.

From another source, Nostalgic Hero and Oldtimer mags have relevant adverts in Japan. Someone had better bring back some ZG mudguard flares ansd sell them to me, or else :dead:

Good on you MrC for mentioning that, the power of the intraweb

What is the weather usually like that time of year down there? And, are we going to see any WA'ers, it will be an event to remember