jpc3006

Thanks for the feedback. That is what I am looking for, something more compliant than hard urethane. I'll be putting them in with new Koni shocks.

Just removed and disassembled all four struts and will be replacing the shocks and springs. I was using the MSA urethane bump stops which seem to be very firm, so I am considering switching to KONI bump stops when I reassemble as they seem to be fairly soft for the first inch of compression according to the published compression vs. force curve. In couldn't find anything searching this forum and am looking for real world feedback/experience with the KONI bump stops. Thanks, John

Dadsun, FYI, when I replaced the flat-tops on my '73 with round-tops from a '71 many, many years ago I bought a new thermostat housing and the metal coolant tube that runs around the back of the head from the intake manifold for a 1971. This eliminates the part you call the "sensor" altogether and routes the coolant from the thermostat housing through the intake manifolds and back to the water pump. Using the 1971 parts also eliminated the need to plug the extra connections as there is no provision for coolant being supplied to these carbs. I have run the car this way for over 35 years and have had no problems; so my answer to your "QUESTION: Can I just get rid of this 5/8" hose and sensor altogether for round tops? That would only leave the coolant flowing through the intake manifold on that side of the engine compartment." is yes, if you are installing 1971 round-tops as that is the stock configuration.

gnosez, I believe the washer/isolators in your photo are the "uppers" nissan part no. 55474-N4300 with the 16 mm hole. The ones I am seeking are the "lowers" with a 13 mm hole and are nissan part nos. 55475-21000 or 55475-E8300 or 55475-E4102 or 55475-N4300. The correct one for my 1973 is a solid one, 55475-E8300, but any should work as they are shown with the later number superseding the prior ones. Thank you for the time and effort to find these, but they are what I have and would not work in the lower position. John

gnosez, I am in need of a pair of the lower washers, the ones with the smaller hole, as I found a new pair of the uppers in one of my boxes. Also, I would prefer solid washers as that's what I found for the uppers. I don't know if you can mix them or not. Please advise if you have any lower washers and let me know what you want for them. Thanks, John

AK260, Thank you for the input. I checked on eBay before posting and didn't see any but will continue to look. If I don't find any before this spring (the car is in the garage until the roads are salt free) I will try your fix with the TC rod poly bushing as I have several of those lying around. It should be a pretty easy fix as the washers on my car are solid rubber, not the serrated ones and all I have to do is get the thickness correct. John

Does anyone know of a source for the stock Nissan rubber/steel washers used to mount the differential mustache bar? I noticed that the ones on my '73 are starting to show some wear and want to replace them. MSA lists the washer/bushings as NLA and suggests going with polyurethane. I have the bushing which fits vertically inside the mustache bar and would like to keep this mount rubber. Any help would be appreciated, Thanks, John

Just an update on my original post. I got a cam oiler from Mike Yoes and installed it this morning. It's very well built and fit my L24 perfectly. Verified that all the holes were squirting oil onto the rockers by cranking the engine with the ignition disabled and cam cover off then took it out for a short drive. Everything's fine. John

FYI, I am very happy with the Covercraft Dustop. It's very soft and fits well with a single mirror pocket and it is long enough to cover the front chin spoiler and the wheels to slightly below the center hub.

Not sure what I should do. I pulled the oiler off and checked it on my workbench. It is solid with no loose joints, the only problem seems to be that the rearmost short section tilts in towards the cam. The tube seems to be coming straight out of the aluminum casting but the casting is not as "square" as the one on the front of the oiler. I inspected the clearance of the oiler to the #6 exhaust valve cam lobe and it's only about 1/8 inch. For comparison the clearance between the oiler and the #1 exhaust valve cam lobe is close to 1/4 inch. I reinstalled the oiler and cranked the engine with the ignition disabled and once I got oil pressure everything seems to be OK. Then I started and ran the engine (with the cam cover on) and the engine sounds normal. At this point in time I'm not sure whether it's always been this way or only since I rebuilt the engine last year.

The cam oiler on my 240 is showing signs of failure with the rear most section tilting in towards the cam and I'm trying to decide whether to repair it, replace it with another stock oiler or buying the Yoes cam oiler. I've read that some of the billet stye oilers made by other suppliers interfered with the cam cover internal baffles and was wondering if the Yoes oiler fits without any modification required. Also, your experience positive or negative would be appreciated. thanks, John

Dave WM and rcb280z - you guys where right on this problem! I removed the aftermarket shift knob, reinstalled the OEM knob and took the Z on a run this morning. The result was no transmission noise at all! I thank you both for the advice as the noise was really annoying and I was about to drop the transmission.

The shift knob is not the original but it has not been changed since the car was painted and the interior redone last year. I still have the original knob so I'll put it on to see if it makes a difference.

The transmission in my 1973 240z just started making a fairly loud noise when decelerating in gear. The noise sounds like a slight grinding and vibration can be felt in the shifter. It is worst in third gear but there is some noise also in second gear. If I push the shifter forward slightly while in third gear or pull back slightly in second gear (just taking the play out of the shifter) it's goes away. The transmission shifts just fine and there doesn't seem to be any noise in first or fourth gears. Some background information; the car is nearly stock and has 400 miles on it since an engine rebuild with new clutch, throw-out bearing, etc. The transmission is the original 4 speed which I rebuilt maybe 15 or 20 years ago. I installed a new oil seal on the output shaft and replaced the conventional Pennzoil gear lube with Redline MT90 before reinstalling the engine. What has me baffled is that for the first 350 miles after the engine rebuild the transmission worked perfectly. The only thing that has changed in the last 50 miles is the ambient temperature which was in the mid-80s and now is a more seasonable 50 to 60 degrees. I've checked the shifter bushings and replaced the shifter detent balls and springs. The transmission isn't leaking and the gear lube is level with the fill hole. My next test will be to take the console out and remove the rubber boot between the shifter and the body just to eliminate any possible interference from the boot but I do not think that this is the problem. Is it possible that the shift rods are worn where the ball detent sits or is the transmission just worn out? Any suggestions would be appreciated before I pull the tranny and tear it apart. Thanks, John

Hi Zs-ondabrain, I just installed your headlight and parking light upgrades today and since I had the steering column uncovered, I took some pictures for you. The car is a 1973 with a 01/73 build date. It has never been repaired or modified (until today) as I am the original owner. I hope this pics are useful