SeKcGamer

Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Interesting thing I found while working on here for an hour before I go to work[emoji849]. This filter that we replaced had a tiny black filter and this new one hasn't even been touched by fuel. Interesting... Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Guys, aside from this. I'm very lost and confused about the fuel tank issue. Because there's I guy where I live(Nampa,idaho) and he has this huge lot of z's and that he used to be a mechanic on z's and he goes by "idahoz" and his first name is Kim. He told me he is the only one who knows how to restore a tank without cutting it or using POR15 and anybody who uses "POR15" is one of the biggest idiots ever. And he would sell me a tank that only he knows how to restore for 840$. All I got out from him on how he makes it is that he uses"open flame" that's the only hint I got. But my dad thinks it's a scam because he wants to be prepaid and that he'd have it done in less than a month. He told me not even sand blasting a z tank works because every z tank has this really fine mesh and some other stuff. So I don't know what to believe. And I'm on a lot of pressure because school starts in less than a week and I'm out of a car. And I don't know if my tank can still be resurrected on what he has told me. I'm really under a lot of stress because i don't know what to do. And who to believe. He told me he read the article about the guy that "supposedly fixed his tank using POR15" and that he went on that forum and told him how stupid the guy was. But idk. I need help guys. Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Took some shots of the fuel pressure gauge, and that's what it does now, every time I guess it'll just get lower as it goes Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

And I hear the pump from inside the car and it's making like a synchronized sound, like every second it'll make like "rmmm". I currently tried giving it gas and it cause afterfire. And now it's just idling again. Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Even when I take off the gas cap there's no pressure build up. It's currently trying to idle at 30 but then moves rapidly to 20 then back up to 30. When I take the cap off, nothin. It's like closing a jar and opening it. Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I don't know I this could be a piece of the puzzle but when I got the take up from the first time ( when the red-kote was applied) I put fresh fuel in and the next two days when I drained the tank the fuel was yellow. This time that I drained it the fuel was pink. Could the red kote be affecting this? Or have something to do with it? Sent from my SM-J320V using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I've replaced all filters on the car. I called my teacher about it also and he suggested that I first tried crimping the return Line and check the dead pressure. And he also told me it could be an electrical problem and he wanted me to test both the positive and negative side of the pump. And go from there. Any thoughts about that?. Sent from my SM-J320V using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Update: I dropped the tank and checked it thoroughly, and nothing seemed to be blocking the lines. So I put everything back on and exchanged my fuel pump with a new one and I installed it. I also put a fuel filter before the pump and deleted the one after it. After everything was installed the car started right up, I took it for a drive around the block twice and drove fine, but on my third run I started getting the same problems again. The pressure went down and I barely made it back home. When I finally got back it died at 16psi and didn't want to start anymore. The first time I dropped the tank I remember seeing this little black filter coming out from the top of the tank and I replaced it with a small fuel filter idk what I was exactly but it looked stock. Do you think my fuel lines could be bad or clogged? Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Idles fine, no misfiring, no smoke, some soot. New fuel regulator and injectors. When the car idles I do notice that my fuel gauge jumps around a lot from 32 to 30 a lot and even hits 29 at some times. But as soon as you want to drive it, I guess the better way to put it is that it stalls and doesn't get the direct power anymore. Which is very confusing as to what the problem maybe now. Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Anotha update:I recently installed a new set of injectors(lifetime warranty) and a fuel pressure regulator. Every time it starts up immediately then when I drive it out maybe less than a quarter mile it drops in fuel pressure(down to 10psi) and when I when I returned to my house a parked it but didn't turn it off it was still running 10 and wanted to die. I've noticed when I drive it and I'm giving it gas that it will all the suddenly not want to take anymore then all of the sudden the rpms come back up and starts driving. And it happens consistently as I drive, it'll happen more and more. But today was swapping out the injectors with new ones and a new fuel pressure regulator day. I'm really confused. I've asked my auto teacher about it when I ran into him the other day at a store and he had a lot to say and was trying to narrow down what it could be. I told him about the rust and everything that had happen and he told me I didn't have to change the injectors because if one of them were clogged than more of them should too if rust particles were to have gotten that far. Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Update: here's what I did, I ended up dropping the tank and replaced all filters and fuel pump, put acetone in the tank maybe 5 times to clean it out then I poured the red kote in as directed. I did all this Saturday. Today(Tuesday) I put everything back together and put fuel in(about two gallons), and let it circulate fuel before starting her on. The car turned on and ran like it used to. I drove it to the gas station to put in like 5 gallons of supreme. After that I test drove a little more and that's when I started getting a problem again. When I would accelerate and kept giving it fuel the car would stop taking the fuel and a couple seconds later it would start to take it. But it started happening more consecutively so I knew something was up. Any thoughts? Sent from my SM-J320V using Classic Zcar Club mobile

This was the only bucket with particles in it[emoji1554] Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Drained the tank and so far no rust?, but the filter had rust?. Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

This is what I've found, possible rust in my tank?. If it is rust what's a good way to clean the tank. On another thread someone said to drop the tank and fill it with acid and use a red coat or something.Do you know where I can find this acid and red-kote. Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I've been daily driving my z for about a month now and it's starting to have a starting problem. When I drive it for a couple of hours the car starts to lose power and begins to cough up and I pull over to the side of the road and it starts but reads low fuel pressure(13 psi) . So luckily I have a Jerry can in the back of my car and i went to buy some fuel and the car started immediately and so I took the freeway and made it like 5 miles and took my exit and the same Thing happened. And now it's reading low fuel pressure when I go to start. But when I wait a few minutes the car starts up run then dies. Sent from my SM-J320V using Classic Zcar Club mobile

[emoji28]I don't have one with me at my house. The only way I can use one is at school tomorrow. Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

So my teacher this Tuesday asked me if the fuse was still blowing after I changed the voltage regulator and my response was yes, so he asked me to check my alternator but I completely forgot the rest of what he told me[emoji28], but today when I went to start my car the battery was drained again. What I did was I bought a new alternator and jump started my car but that really didn't work since it wasn't charging the battery, so when I drove off to work in a different car I dropped off the battery and they told me it's completely charged. So I put the battery in and the car is starting to run rough again?.Any ideas? Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

My z did that not to long ago and I just fixed it by cleaning the distributor cap points and it started to idle just fine. After two days I bought a new rotor. Sent from my SM-J320V using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Alright Thanks [emoji6] Sent from my SM-J320V using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Thanks I'll go tell him that on Tuesday when I have class with him, see what we can find. Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

UPDATE: So I took it to my teacher and after the first two days we found out there was corrosion happening on the fuse box that holds the fuse bussus because there wasn't any power going to them, After I cleaned them up with a circular file most if not all other electrical accessories such as the rear dome light started to function, the emergency light in the engine bay worked and the guages started to work again. But now I have a new problem with the electrical and that is when I put a 10A fuse in the "Fuel Gauge" section the gauges and turn signals start to work on idle, but when you rev it up to 3K+ RPM the fuse blows out and the fuel, temp,oil, gauge goes out along with the turn signals. The only gauge that works it he VOLTS. My teacher was tracing the wires on a wiring diagram to see if there was a short somewhere and testing many wires to see what they were reading and everything seemed fine. What ended up happening is he was testing it with the recommended "10A" fuse but he couldn't get a good read on the fuse box and it would blow before he got something, so what he did was he put a 20A to what kind of reading he would get and when that happened my gauges stayed on but he blew the voltage regulator which I replaced today but the 10A fuse keeps blowing over 3K+ RPM. He told me he didn't know what else to check and hope replacing the voltage regulator would solve the blowing fuse problem. Guys got any suggestions as to why I'm still blowing that fuse? Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I took it to my teacher today so he could get a look at it and the reason the brake lights/hazards weren't working was because the hazard relay was laying on this metal piece that was shortening it out, so he moved it and my brake/hazard lights work now and headlights. I have to bring it in tomorrow after school because my guages don't work nor do my turn signals, he also printed out a wiring diagram for it and saw that the hazard switch is the main key to those other components, in order for certain guages to work, according to the diagram. Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile