fairladyz432

I’m running a electric fuel pump as well So that might be a good idea to wire in a kill switch. Currently the gas tank vent line is capped off but I’m working on using the 280z charcoal canister and figuring out how to set up the distributor vac and purge lines but don’t know where they should go since I converted to triple carbs. Any ideas? I was thinking the purge line goes to intake manifold port to remove the gas vapors but unsure where the distributor vac line goes since I no longer have it connected to the original 280z pre throttle body and vacuum nipple on the distributor ( I think the are tee’d) .

good to know that fuel shouldn't be in the throats so i'm suspecting the strong fumes are coming from that. Going to check the float levels and see if that's causing the problem. thanks!

Ive been trying to park my Z in the garage but after awhile of sitting in the garage, it starts to smell like gas. I did check each carb venturi area and some have fuel sitting while others look dry. Is this normal? im suspecting it might be fuel level adjustment that maybe out of spec (which i never checked since i got them) but im not sure if its that or possibly a leaky part somewhere. did change all the necessary gaskets and seals prior to installation. I mean i do know there will be some gas odor naturally with carbs but not bad enough to fill the entire garage up. I checked the gas tank and lines and don't see any leaks. it just smells near the carbs themselves. Any help will be great.

Not sure if they have jets in 54 but there’s 55, 52.5 , 50 . Maybe a 52.5?

From what I recall on freeway it was in the 12s during cruise and idle I was seeing 11.3-11.9 and sometimes go 12.5 so yeah I have to get close to 13.5 or so for idle and 14s for cruise.

Ok I’ll give the 150s a shot. Do I stay 220s for the main air jet?

thanks for help I may stick with 57.5 pilot jets or go down a bit so I’ll have a leaner cruise and idle, as far as main jets I think maybe 165 would be good since I’m using 220 main air jets? Since recommended starting is 145 main jets and 200 main air jets. Difference is 55 in size. Does that sound right?

I have a l28 with mild comp cam 260s and running triple solex 44phh carbs. Here are my specs: outer Venturi 34, jet block OA , main jets 180, main air jet 220, pilot jets 57.5 it runs pretty rich under the high load areas in the mid to high range getting AFR’s around 10s and even high 9s which is super rich. Do any of you guys think I should run main jets to say 160 or 155 or 150? I’m leaning towards 160 to try first but would like some opinions. From what I know the recommended from Mikuni for a stock engine is 150 for 34 Outer Venturi Or 155 if you run larger 37 outer Venturi. Since I have a cam and full exhaust system I figured maybe a richer setting is safer. Thanks

Sorry I actually ended buying a brand new one to save the trouble in the future just as a matter of precaution. I think it ended up being my rebuild kit not sealing right or something.

I have the same issues as well i think. Im trying to bleed my bmc off of my 76 280z and only seem to be able to bleed the rears but the fronts will not. The reservoir at the rear which sends fluid to the front brakes doesn't seem to move any fluid at all. Is that what you had a problem with too? I bought a rebuild kit and installed correctly to the best of my knowledge. Do you guys recommend i take it apart agian and check everything and try to do a bench bleed? Even the rear brakes seem to take forever to bleed out the air bubbles.

Managed to get all the seals replaced, pretty easy for me to get the screws out and everything went smoothly. Thanks again!

Awesome photo, thanks for the help!

Thanks for reply, do you know which screws it is? Is it only one? Is it right underneath the area where the jet assembly block is? Do I need to remove the pump diaphragm to gain access? I think I remember seeing it but not sure

Im having a bit of trouble figuring out how to replace a figure 8 seal that is supposedly under the jet block assembly? This is for a Solex 44phh carburetor i believe is type 5. Apparently the figure 8 seal isn't listed on the main blow up diagram.

Yeah looks like I’m gonna try to keep it there but will probably see how I can clear the shield from the header . Thx for tip

Hi guys im wondering if any of you know the function of the metal bracket that is held in by the oil pan bolts on the driver side? It has a metal heat shield or something that is attached on the bracket. Im currently trying to fit my header on but the heat shield is in the way. Is it okay to remove it? any use for it? thanks for any help

Hi guys im wondering if any of you know the function of the metal bracket that is held in by the oil pan bolts on the driver side? It has a metal heat shield or something that is attached on the bracket. Im currently trying to fit my header on but the heat shield is in the way. Is it okay to remove it? any use for it? thanks for any help

thanks for the help. will report back

so just to be absolutely sure, I should only be turning the crank when the head is on right? Or the other option is Leaving the head off makes it a bit easier to hold down the chain tension tool while cranking the engine to zero mark. As soon as the crank pulley is lined up to zero mark I can install the head on and then install the chain onto the cam sprocket and then remove chain tension tool. Does that sound right? Seems like the easier way, also the head is in correct position currently. I attached a pic of the head.

Yep got the sprocket installed on the cam as well. Here’s a pic of the damper pulley with notch mark close by the zero marker. Do I rotate crank to line up the notch from the pulley to the 0 mark and that’s it?

Sorry I meant to say do I leave in the chain block tool on right now as it sits to align the damper pulley to zero before I install the head?

THANK a lot for the help, looks like I’m not too far. Do I have to remove the chain blocking tool (keeps the tensioner from falling out ) before I can crank the engine?

Im about to install my newly rebuilt head onto the block but before i removed the head prior to the rebuild i didn't set my timing to TDC with the cam lobes pointing upwards. The picture i attached is where it sits currently. I do know that the engine goes through tdc twice during the cycle so i think another turn will make it the correct TDC. Right now my head cam timing is in the correct position with the front lobes pointing upwards. Do i simply just install the head and then crank the engine slowly till it reaches the next tdc cycle? Any help would be great lol.

yeah it make sense, dry should be more then adequate if done properly.

Ok great responses, i did run a razor over the spots and did not catch so it looks like it is discoloration. I also used a thread chaser to clean out the threads and went in and out smoothly with out any issues (might run it through a second time just to be safe). I recently got my head rebuilt so it is for sure flat according to the machine shop. As for the engine block i didn't check for flatness since it ran pretty good prior to the head rebuild and i just cleaned off the old gunk with a 3m white bristle roloc disc lightly. Ill update this thread as i go but looks like a promising step forward to getting it all assembled back again. Is it recommended you spray copper gasket onto the oem headgasket before installing? some sources say its not necessary but i guess it wouldn't hurt to have extra sealing.