foosman

I have the Vintage Rubber kit - I had no interest in dealing with the Precision door seal issues given all the negative feedback. The doors fit/close fine so far, but I don't have my glass back in yet so the upper half isn't being tested. Having an issue with their rear hatch seal - it fits fine, but it's being difficult as far as staying stuck to the frame. It's been cleaned multiple times, but is still coming loose in the lower corners. Not sure what my body shop used for adhesive, but it's something I have on my "deal with this later" list.

FWIW - here are pictures of a reproduction Euro Stage 1 spring (IZCC group buy in 2006 via Courtesy Nissan and @Carl Beck) and a Motorsport Auto 1" Lowering Spring (with masking tape labels) from the 1980s. The ES1 spring is fully painted with the correct color dabs for front/rear identification, and they have flattened ends. The MSA springs without flattened ends worked fine for years in one of my 240s, so I'm not sure the flattened end is required to sit correctly in the spring seats. Multiple sources say that ES1 springs will need to be cut with today's KYB gas inserts to get the correct ride height, at which point they won't be flattened on the cut end. I'm waiting to see the fully-installed stance of the car before cutting, as it's hard to put metal back on the coils after the fact.

More discussion on the issue, including the "floor jack spread" approach.

For my urethane bushing install, I used a floor jack to spread the "arms" of the control arms ever so slightly, but I think they were off by less than your 4mm. Could also vary by which urethane bushing set you're using - I used the set from Motorsport Auto (black).

Haven't done much business with Zcar Depot, but so far I'm lukewarm about them. Picked up their brake line insulator and bracket clip sets recently - the brake line insulators are fine for 3D printed pieces, but the hole for the fuel return is sized way too big on the curved transmission tunnel insulators for the 1971 OE pipe size. The clamp set is ok, except for they don't provide the correct elongated clamp for the flow guide firewall mount. Sent them an email about these issues, got one response saying that they've sold hundreds of these with no issues, and then they went silent. Seeing this header with mismatched ports doesn't surprise me based on my experience. I had good luck with the MSA 6->1 header (uncoated) and their 2.5" exhaust system on my 1971 30 years ago, assuming the pieces haven't changed much I'd probably go that route again.

I think the move to Texas A&M was in the late 1990s? I joined up in the early 1990s when John DeArmond was hosting it on his dixie.com domain, IIRC.

This is a nice forum - reminds me of the IZCC email list way back when.

Another option on harmonic balancer rebuilds - I haven't used them personally, but heard good things from others: http://hbrepair.com/

I don't have any personal experience with this one, but I've heard people say good things about it: https://www.yoesheadporting.com/product-page/datsun-240z-260z-280z-cam-oiler

From all I've read, you only need to change the mustache bar and lower transverse crossmember to use the later style diff mount. This seems somewhat consistent with the microfiche data, which shows that the diff front crossmember, mustache bar, and diff mount changes in 7/71, but the driveshaft doesn't change until 9/71 (which is coincident with the change to the "B"-series transmission). Not sure what the change is from diff front crossmember 55411-E4100 to 55411-E8300, but maybe it didn't change in ways that matter as far as the diff mount goes. MSA also seems to agree with this change set, FWIW. In any case, I will eventually be testing this as my 5/71 rear suspension is currently set up with the original diff front crossmember and driveshaft, but later diff mount, later mustache bar, and later lower transverse crossmember. "Original" with respect to the diff front crossmember and driveshaft is assumed, as anything could have been changed in the 20 years before I took ownership of the car, but the other rear suspension pieces that came off the car are all obviously series 1. The rear suspension is still sitting on a rolling cart, so maybe I'll find incompatibilities when I eventually install it back into the chassis. I have all the original pieces, so I can revert if necessary, and the original series 1 diff mount looks pretty good. I just figured I'd replace anything with 50-year-old rubber. I'm sure there are others in the group with more knowledge in this area, so I'll stand corrected if any of my assertions are incorrect.

The Creatures = Siouxsie and the Banshees side project, whose roots are in England.

Interested in a set, possibly two.

Today's usage of "Ha Ha!" or "LOL" would fit as well ... ?

Thanks for the translation - the dash is currently hanging from joists in my cellar (limited working space, safest place to keep it while I'm not actively working on it), so upside down is the only way I could snap a shot of it. I had rotated the picture 180 degrees, thinking that might be the 'right way up', but for some reason it posted in its original orientation. Can't make a connection with 'Grass', other than maybe the color green which is this car's original color (#907). Or maybe the assembly line worker was a clairvoyant, and foresaw how much 'green' I'd be pumping into the car's restoration 49 years later.

Seeing as I'm just finishing up my dash restore ...

The one I pulled from my '71 a few months ago measures M16 x 1.5, not 1.75.

Feel free to throw those bumper guards my way - I'll even pay for shipping. :-)

Thanks - only problem is their website says no deliveries to the USA ?

@SpeedRooWhere did you find originals? Searching on that GMB part number, it pops up on some place called "PartSouq" and other international sites, not sure they're legit.

Bump

Is there any difference between the 27105-E4401 heater box that I pulled from my 07/71, and the 27105-E8801 heater box that I've seen advertised for sale? The microfiche doesn’t even list the E4401 heater box, just the E8801 variety for all years of the 240. I’m guessing someone else has run into this - just want to make sure there aren’t any fitment or functional differences if I replace my E4401 with an E8801.

I stripped the rubber off all the hold downs during the blast process. There was some rust underneath a few of them, and a couple had to be removed and welded back onto the body. Ordered a few of the different size repro covers from 240zrubberparts.com @nix240z. The pieces seem nicely made, but in my case they fit very tightly, and that's before the tabs get a coat of epoxy primer. The body shop has some concern that they might split after install, so they are going to install the few I have after the engine bay is primed, and see how they hold up before ordering the rest. Not sure whether I will ultimately paint them body color or not.

Nice looking - how hard is it to skin over the sunroof? Is that a stock color for '77?

Adam Remington posted over in the Facebook "240/260/280Z lovers" group about a month ago that he just received one, and was very pleased overall. Hasn't mounted it yet, and I asked him to keep the group updated when that happens. Once I see that there are no major fitment issues, I'm likely going to place my order.