foosman

Started with the IZCC back in the John DeArmond days (1993/4), sort of monitored things through the Texas A&M hosted years, went inactive right around the time it shut down. Casually resurfaced here a few years ago, just celebrated year 10 of my 240Z's rehabilitation 😞.

Any thoughts/leads about reproducing the chrome ring around the cigarette lighter hole?

Sorry to hear this @CanTechZ and best of luck with the restoration. It will be a very nice memorial when you're done.

FYI - there’s a member over on HybridZ (walkerbk) who has created a nice replacement for the black bushing cover for the ebrake pivot. Picture of my OEM piece attached, which we used to design his version. Contact him with any interest, not me.

A delayed shipment arriving months later reminds me of a recent experience with Motorsport Auto. Two holiday seasons ago, I ordered a bunch of interior panels to take advantage of their holiday free shipping promotion. They were mostly out of stock with unknown ETA, so I told them to substitute other items into the order to get the free shipping. This past spring (over a year since the original order), I got a call from MSA telling me they had received a shipment of interior panels and they asked if I still wanted the items from my original order. I was surprised that they held on to the canceled order details for over a year. I told them that a big part of the reason for the original order was to get the free shipping, and they offered to honor the free shipping from the original order so I completed the order.

Yeah - need to find a replacement myself. There is an eBay seller from Poland who manufactures a repro of the entire ashtray, but he isn't interested in selling just the trim rings, or divulging any information on his source for them.

Not sure if these help - my '71 was running a set of the "MSA lowering springs" from the 1980s in these pics, along with a set of Boge oil-filled cartridges. I remember liking the setup for general street usage - assuming the new "MSA lowering springs" are the similar to the 1980s version, I think they are a good option. I'm currently restoring that car, and I have installed a set of reproduction Euro springs that the online community had reproduced a long time ago with the KYB gas inserts. Depending on how that setup looks once I get the chassis fully loaded, if I can't get the stance I like I may consider going back to the MSA lowering springs rather than cut the Euro springs down.

I'm assuming this is pwrbrake.com - do they include any paint work on the can in the rebuild price?

Thanks @emccallumno worries.

@emccallumI might be interested in this if @texasz isn't.

I believe the flow guide flows both directions - when the fuel vapor pressure in the tank builds, it flows toward the engine, and opens the spring-loaded valve in the (2) circuit, sending the fuel vapors toward the crankcase vent tube to be burned. When the fuel tank creates a vacuum (as the fuel level drops) it opens the spring-loaded valve in the (1) circuit, and draws air from the air cleaner back to the fuel tank.

I can't top Racer X's story, but the 1977 we have is a recovered stolen car. The thief pulled all the VIN/ID plates, ground off the firewall VIN, repainted the persimmon red car maroon, and put generic Datsun wheel covers and 240z bumpers on it. Apparently his "disguise" wasn't enough to keep him from getting pinched.

Thanks @Patcon - I'm thinking of using aluminum rivets and stainless screws per your measurements.

Does anyone have the size/material info for the rivets used for the door jamb plate? Also, size/material for the engine bay ID plate screws?

FWIW, I bought a 240Z Vintage Dashes unit a few years ago, assembled it, and then put it aside until I was ready to install it (still a few years off, likely). I don't remember any such issues. Hung Vu is a lot more active on the Datsun Facebook groups than here, so you may want to reach out to him there if you haven't already.

Yes - thanks @inline6for the pics, seems like adapting from my mounts to the later tank should be pretty easy. I already have the later tank that a PO hacked in there (although they never secured it - it was just sitting loose behind the interior panel), and reverting to a plastic tank seems like a problem waiting to happen. Might require going to a "later" interior panel, in case the bulge is different. I'll have to check my 7/71 which should have the later metal tank (and panel) from the factory, although it has the series 1 diff setup (which also should have ended in 6/71) so who knows.

Thanks @CanTechZ

@CanTechZ I would be interested - pm me and we can discuss details.

Thanks - I’d like to see that. The fiche shows the original 17350-E4600, which I assume is the plastic tank, and that is replaced by 17350-E4601, which is what I have.

Anyone have a plastic evap tank for sale? It doesn't need to be functional, but needs to be mostly complete. I'm interested in using it as a model for fabrication of a metal replacement. Previous owner of my 5/71 hammered up a later metal tank to "fit" as a replacement, but the factory mounts in the quarter panel are obviously set up for the earlier plastic tank.

@lapriserSorry, didn't see a notification for this inquiry - yes, still available.

In case someone else doesn't chime in with exact measurements, here are some reference pics and measurements from my set of 1971 OE bumpers. The center line of the front bumperette bolt is about 18-1/2 inches from the center line of the bumper. The center line of the rear bumperette bolt is about 15 inches from the center line of the bumper. The pictures show the alignments relative to the surrounding body details - the outside edge of the front bumperette aligns with the inside edge of the headlight case, and the rubber side strip. The outside edge of the rear bumperette aligns with the inside edge of the upper tail light lens indentation, and the rubber side strip. You might want to mount the bumpers and visually fit the bumperettes for the best look, especially if there are any dimensional differences with your (I'm assuming) non-OE bumpers. Hope this helps!

View Advert 1973 or early 1974 rear bumper rubber strips NOS rear bumper strips - bought these probably 30 years ago for my 1971, and never checked them. Went to put them on last month, and the 70-72 rear bumper strips have 6 screws, and these have 5. Looks like they should fit the 1973/early 1974 bumpers according to the fiche. Part number 85007 N3300, never used/mounted. $75 each plus shipping Advertiser foosman Date 11/19/2022 Price $75 Category Parts for Sale

View Advert Late 260/280 gas filler neck and cap Cleaning out some parts from the stash I'll never use. According to the fiche, this looks like it could be for anything from late 260Z - 280Z. No part number stamped on the neck or cap, neck and cap were probably re-plated by a PO, there is some corrosion on the inside of the cap. Rubber tube is pretty stiff, rubber on the metal mounting ring has typical deterioration that I've seen on other 40+ year old gas filler necks. $50 plus shipping Advertiser foosman Date 11/19/2022 Price $50 Category Parts for Sale

View Advert Late 260/280 gas filler neck and cap Cleaning out some parts from the stash I'll never use. According to the fiche, this looks like it could be for anything from late 260Z - 280Z. No part number stamped on the neck or cap, neck and cap were probably re-plated by a PO, there is some corrosion on the inside of the cap. Rubber tube is pretty stiff, rubber on the metal mounting ring has typical deterioration that I've seen on other 40+ year old gas filler necks. $50 plus shipping Advertiser foosman Date 11/19/2022 Price $50 Category Parts for Sale