mwz

I sent you a PM, speedyblue Chloe

I've been working on it :geek:

That one needs a picture...I need to do that. It's a repair panel that covers the area from the bumper area and on down. It has the cutout for the exhaust. The measurements are about 49"L x 10" H.

I know another of another supplier for those, too . Current ‘list’ for the panel is $130.92 . I’ll match a current quote from the other suppliers…and the shipping price will be reasonable too :classic: http://www.midwestz.com/Z_Body_Panels.htm (at the bottom of the page, "Upper Panel (above taillights)")

dazzlah, You have a private message. Thanks, Chloe

The new key probably jammed the old (worn-out) tumblers in your igntion lock. Cutting a new key from the code would have worked fine when those locks were new, but now the igntion lock is so worn out inside that the 'new' key won't fit properly. It's a fairly common problem, and solution would be a new ignition lock. If you decide to get a new lock, let me know...I can help :cheeky:

Took me awhile, but I was able to dig up this picture of these clips (attached hopefully). This pic is courtesy of another member - Abas. These are believed to be original, from his early 240Z.

Sorry...just ask and you shall receive 26th-Z is the authority on the whole vent grille attachment process. As far as I know, there is a clip on speedy-nut type thing that was originally clipped on to the hatch itself. The part number for that clip is still available, but it looks like an over-sized emblem barrel clip instead of the original piece (?). I could be way off...so someone who knows- feel free to chime in.

Hi, I have one set in stock that is not spoken for. They are new. E-mail or PM me Thanks, Chloe parts@midwestz.com

The exhaust manifold and the intake share some studs and nuts...so you'll need to loosen (if not remove...can't quite remember) the exhaust manifold in order to get the intake manifold off. Once all of the necessary nuts are off it should come off quite easily. Hope it helps. Chloe

Do you know offhand what the length of the needed bolts would be? In other words, how long are the stock bolts? I might have what you need. Thanks. Chloe

Do you have any pictures? Thanks.

Dave, I can help with the washer motor and coin box. E-mail me...parts@midwestz.com Thanks, Chloe

I don't think they are NLA...but I could be wrong. There are 2 very similar ones. I have both. E-mail me if you're interested. parts@midwestz.com

Where in Colorado are you?

There was a cat in a cartoon with that name and it seemed to fit this guy. I can't remember what the cartoon was, but the name seemed to fit, so it stuck. He KNOWS when he's in trouble...it's just a question of when he chooses to listen. The attached photo is from one of those moments when he was ignoring me (I promise, he's OK...he does this all the time:cross-eye )

I studied the pic for a few minutes, hoping to find evidence that it was photoshopped...but sadly, I'm afraid it's the real deal :cross-eye j/k...it's cute, but I know that Leopold (my avatar) would never stand for that :devious: !

I think Daniel was just referring to the ebay picture of the 77/78 round port gasket with your 70-76 square port header

From memory, I believe one of them is smaller than the other...that should be the water temp sensor. The larger one that looks similar is the thermotime switch. This 280Z fuel injection manual should help, too: http://www.72hours.net/~zcar/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf

Like Keith said, I would really recommend a factory service manual dedicated your your 1978. The Haynes manual isn't the best reference. The test you describe is for the temp gauge sending unit ('thermal transmitter'). The test verifies that the temp gauge works...it doesn't tell you much more than that. The sensor that Keith was referring to is located right next to the temp sending unit if I remember correctly. It tells the ECU how warm or cool the engine is to change the fuel mixture appropriately. If it's giving the ECU a "cold" value on a hot restart, then the mixture will be too rich and cause trouble. You mentioned that it is 'still overheating'...can you elaborate on that?

Hi Alan, I'm sorry the thread took a wrong turn. My comments were meant to be in good spirit, but I can see why they weren't taken that way As Michael said, I hope there are no hard feelings. I have more numbers from some other pedals... 5/71 brake 7526; clutch- no stamp 2/72 brake 2203; clutch- no stamp 6/73 brake 3508; clutch- no stamp ?/73 brake 3126; clutch- no stamp 7/76 brake 5117; clutch- no stamp ?/77 brake 7221; clutch- no stamp ?/77 brake 6Y17;clutch- no stamp And a 7/73 Automatic brake marking... 3621 Hope it helps.... Chloe

Does it snap out of that pretty quickly...i.e, how long does it sputter? Is it ingesting coolant? Sorry if I missed the history on this. EDIT Keith's quicker than I am at this hour!

The way it's looking, I'll be lucky to find any clutch pedals with numbers, let alone any that match. But if I do, I *promise* not to switch them :cheeky: I wonder what the numbers are on Alan's clutch pedal? Hmmm....

It's starting to look that way :cross-eye I have 10 more pedal assemblies to check....stay tuned.

Hmm from my my 280Z brake pedal "73 09" Nothing that I can find on the clutch pedal. Are you sure this isn't a test to see who's willing to stand on their head and check this