mwz

Divide the first number by the second number. So, if it says 39/11, that's 39 divided by 11, or 3.545.

You've got mail :classic: . Chloe

I doubt it very much. Never tried it, but generally pre and post '78 don't mix too well (in more ways than one, it seems :devious: ) . Things like the ecu and AFM can be pretty particular, even down to the specific year...and especially turbo/non-turbo, etc. I would suggest one from an '80 if that's what you have. Chloe

Steve, I have a space saver spare that fits in that compartment....$25 plus shipping. E-mail me if you are interested. Shipping to Florida would be about $12. Thanks, Chloe

As much as I (we? ) would like to help, the forums here are more geared toward the 70-78 Z's. You might try the 90-96 forum at zcar.com. Someone will probably be able to help you there. Chances are, if you're trying to say that only your oil gauge (not the other gauges) are inoperative, then I would say it's probably not a fuse issue. Good luck :classic: Chloe

Unfortunately, Steve is not exaggerating on the time frame required. The problem is the wedge bolt that goes through the spindle pin makes the pin "swell" in the center and driving the pin out is no easy task, 98% of the time. If time is a big issue, you would be better off trying to find a used strut housing with the control arm still attached. Unless my memory is off, the part that is broken is part of the strut housing. It's all one piece. Chloe

Spork- Thanks...I am still looking for one, so I will you send you an e-mail. Thanks ZmeFly...I'll keep yours in mind. Chloe

KEINsm, I sent an e-mail. Let me know if I can help. Chloe

Well, what I have are mostly earlier 70-78 Z parts but maybe we can work something out. Any idea if your 82 ecu will work with all the components and wiring harness (minus the auto trans) from the '81? E-mail me if you'd like. I'm interested if it will work. Thanks, Chloe

Looking for a good ECU for a '81 280ZX Turbo. Can anyone help? Needless to say, plenty of parts available to trade...or cash...your preference :classic: Thanks! Chloe Wichita, KS

My latest scare was just a few weeks ago. The 240Z was on 4 stands nicely, and the differential, rear struts and decklid were off the car. Problem was the engine and tranny were still in it. Oh, lets pull that full size spare tire/rim out of the back...it tipped forwards instantly. The missing spare tire upset the balance. Whoops! :stupid: Needless to say, now I take a close look at things as I remove heavy parts from one end or the other!

Victor, This may sound odd, but I had a very similar problem on a Nissan pickup and it turned out that the alternator output was low. I can't recall the specifics :stupid: but it was a charging system issue. Good luck. Chloe

Tomohawk - I can't speak about other makes, but newer (95 or so up to present) Nissans have a rectangular charcoal canister. It's about 11"x8"x3" and it's mounted near the gas tank in the rear. It's a much different set up though, with valves and solenoids to control the system. The other ones up to that point have the same old canister that our Z's have. Mike - WishN is right about the filter. I've never really heard of doing much else to one of those. The ones on newer cars are plagued with all sorts of issues that cause those annoying "check engine" lights but I've never encountered a problem on an older Z. Basically, if and when it's "bad", it goes in the trash.

I haven't seen the picture, but I have a '76 with some hooks on the rear. They don't look homemade, they look like they belong there. The hooks are for sale :classic: if you're interested.

Not only does Mark have good advice, but his car looks A LOT better than mine, eh? I think the one in my photos almost competes with the yellow one St. Stephen posted pics of last week...not much metal left.

And it's out...

This is probably not the wisest advise (official disclaimer :nervous: ), but if you are talking about a parts car and you have an extra pair of hands, the engine/tranny can come out through the bottom rather than the top. I guess you would need something suitable to put them on underneath to wheel them out (like in the photo). Hopefully the picture is attached...

That would be my first thought, but the 280Z air filter is all the way up front.

The rain cover was only on the driver's side originally. I don't know the whole story behind that, but what you have is normal. Hope it helps. Chloe

I'm fairly sure that the ebay pad you have is a '77/'78 type. From memory, the '74-'76 pad says "Datsun" but is quite a bit larger than the 240Z horn pad. So, all together there are 3 different pads from 70-78, and the one from ebay is the latest of the 3.

GG, The recall that they may be thinking of applies to 300ZX's, not the 280ZX. There is no injector or injector harness recall for a 280ZX that I am aware of. It would be common for the injector harness wiring connectors to be cracked/loose/broken, but it's not covered by a recall. You can pick up new wiring pigtails for the injectors fairly cheap. There seem to be a lot of those on ebay lately. First thing I can think of to cause a 280ZX to flood so easily would be a poor/dirty connection at the cylinder head temp sensor. That's a cheap and easy fix, but there could be plenty of other things that could be more expensive. Hard to tell without knowing more or seeing it. Hope it helps. Chloe

I'm with Gav on the wire brush being a no-no, but from the looks of the photos, the rust on the camshaft is not on the lobes. It looks fairly light. I would try an oily rag on those areas of the cam that you noted. That should probably do the trick. Yes, try to keep anything from falling into the head. For the studs, I believe that the Nissan studs are readily available, but I could be wrong. Some of the suppliers have "upgraded" stud kits, but I don't have any experience with those. There are stud remover/installer tools. The cheap installer tools will usually hurt the threads of the stud. There a lot of choices for tools. There are also "free" ways to get those in and out (2 nuts tightened against each other and a wrench, etc.), but you might find the money spent is worth the time and frustration saved. Chloe

Texas Z and all, For ClassicZ members the mesh grille is $128 + shipping. Thanks. Chloe

Yes, I can supply the grille and ship it overseas. Thanks again Keith.

Dot 4 is good. As far as I know, there was no Dot 4 back then, and it is what's commonly available now. Dot 5 is the silicone type I believe. It is a purple color. If that's the case, don't mix it with the Dot 3 or 4. If you want to go with dot 5 you should do a complete flush and replacement of all the fluid. Chloe