hansonsaid

Indeed, I have an n47 head(round port w/steel liners). The flange at the head fits fine, everything clears the block and transmission as it makes its way back to the exhaust, that jog to the center at the end of the collector is really the only issue. Though Pacesetter lists this as a part that fits 77-83, it's clear now that the collector portion is specific to 79-83. A great solution would be buying a 77-78 collector, but I don't want to keep sinking money into a temporary part. This was $220 shipped, another $100 would have bought the ceramic coated, emissions port-free, 77-78 specific MSA header. Luckily I have the tools needed to resolve this, my main initial hesitation was wanting to maintain this header's usability on vehicles other than my own in the future. Now that I'm certain I'm modding it to fit 77-78 specs, that hesitation is gone.

through some image searching, it would appear the 280zx routes the exhaust almost directly under the driveshaft. this routing would match up beautifully with the collector pictured in my first post, so it looks like i'll be in for some deeper fabrication than i bargained for.

pacesetter's own description lists this as fitting 77-83 year models. the "design notes" say it is made to match up with stock exhaust AND some fabrication is required. i expected the fab was to merely weld on the proper flange at the end of the collector. knowing they're selling the same part number for both z's and zx's, can anyone confirm the 280zx exhaust is routed differently than the '78 280z? i've never had the opportunity to be underneath a zx... http://pacesetterexhaust.com/77-83-280z-zx-headers.aspx

FYI, the photo is slightly deceptive. The hanger is about even with the final bend of the collector. I can see how it might look like there's a lot of extra length to the collector, but it doesn't even make it to the exhaust pipe flange.

1978 280z n47 head&block automatic trans i'm test fitting a pacesetter header to replace my cracked stock manifold, and I'm running into a major fitment issue. The tail end of the collector pipe is several inches closer to the centerline of the car than it should be. The bend in the tube looks to have been designed to literally avoid the stock transmission mounted exhaust hanger! this photo shows a look back from under the oilpan, there is currently to gasket between the head and flange but that doesn't seem to be capable of affecting the fit this adversely. I can fix this via welding a straight tube in place of the bends, but I'd prefer not chop this up if I don't have to. header was sold as compatible with an auto trans, and I bought it as a temporary fix to the stock exhaust leak so I can enjoy the nice weather until a manual swap with higher quality exhaust pieces happens in February or so. I'd like to be able to resell it when that time comes. what am I missing? bad installer(me)? deceptive seller?

fellas, i feel dumb. i had not noticed the driver's side(the one with the issue) was missing the plastic sleeve from the body mounted striker. seeing as everything else is fully functional, i can only assume this is the issue. can the striker be disassembled to add a bit of plastic, or is it worth it to just buy a whole new one?

the car is a 78. the door panels were recently off to inspect/clean/lube as best as i know how(which sadly isn't expert level). as far as i can see/hear, all moving parts are operating identically between driver and passenger doors, but when closing the driver's side there is a small but visible amount of bounce-back after it latches. there doesn't seem to be any resistance, it's as if there's extra room for it to move around upon the body portion of the striker/latch about 3/4" laterally. the car was repainted prior to my ownership and it would seem the doors were never off, as all the hardware was painted over in-place. siteunseen, are you referencing the rods that connect the door handles and locks to the actual latch? could reshaping those potentially take up the slack in an otherwise fully functioning system?

should this be moved to the body forum?

the driver's side door on my car has been progressively making more noise and visibly shaking on the latch when closed and encountering any sort of bump in the road. when closing the door i no longer get the definitive thump that i do from the passenger side, yet i can't see any mechanical differences between the two latches. both lock and go through their range of motion quite smoothly. the passenger side closes, latches and sounds totally normal. if my window is down and my arm is out the window(i.e. downward weight/force on the door) the movement of the door persists, but if i keep my arm inside(on the armrest) and apply outward/lateral pressure all symptoms disappear. here's what i've attempted so far: -cleaning and lubing latches on both doors(as thoroughly as possible without removing them from inside the door) with no change of results on either side -adjustment of the body-mounted half of the latch. up, down, and outward all had negative effects, and currently both sides are adjusted all the way inboard(as they were before the symptoms started) i've never had to slam the doors to close them fully, the door seals both appear to be oem in great condition(car had a fairly extensive resto in the late 90's), windows roll up/down very smoothly(door doesn't seem bent out of normal clearance). i have the rubber bumpers/stoppers that attach to the body, are there supposed to be any on the underside of the door itself? what's my next step, yall?

i'm the 1978 that derek alluded to in an earlier post. i can say for certain these very handily fit a '78! the clearance is pretty tight with the hood release cable. i put a very slight bend in my bracket(just a few degrees, probably) and there is zero tension between the panel and the cable. i did my homework in search of the most capable speaker available to fit in these panels. i picked 2-way speakers because i don't want tweeters on my dash, if you were to go with a component speaker there would be more room near the pedals(though my size 12/46 has no issue as is). http://www.crutchfield.com/p_20641KS54/Kicker-41KSC54.html?tp=97 these have the most frequency response, the highest capacity for power, and the highest sensitivity of any 5.25" speaker i could find that was less than 2" deep. yes my car is currently automatic, so there is no interference with the clutch pedal on the speaker grill. these grills would be easy to modify if necessary. sound is a huuuuuge improvement, and despite the close quarters with a potentially rattly ecu cover and seemingly minimal attachment point for the panels everything is rock solid with no noise other than the music! awesome product, i'm really glad these came along instead sacrificing the space and functionality of my hatch area with a 6x9 enclosure by the taillights.

ebay scrapyard seller. less than $30 shipped was more appealing than spending a day hunting for one locally. next up, underhood fuel rehab...

i followed the steps of captain obvious's first option, volvo check valve and audi hose. i lied to the ebay seller and told him i had a volvo so he'd send me the part. i don't have a lathe so i just shortened the threads on the check valve with my bench grinder, worked fine. i trimmed less than 4" off the total length of the hose, everything fit together perfect and leak free, fuel pressure holds overnight and the car now starts almost at the thought of turning the key! such an improvement. thanks!

i'm sure this reply is past the date of necessity, but i've had a good experience with atlas. had a bicycle frame plated nearly 10 years ago, it was considerably thicker plating than the chrome applied to other pieces of the bike that were made overseas. today there's noticeable rust on the foreign chrome, none on the atlas plated parts. pricing was decent(for the time) and their turnaround was less than 3 weeks door to door at a time when i was quoted 16 weeks locally(austin).