ramsesosirus

Thanks, I knew there was a way to adjust without removing the outer end from the knuckle/spindle.

My reasoning for not doing tires first is that the vibration would come and go, there were a few times I was going 45mph+ and it felt smooth, no vibration or shimmy at all; I could control the wheel with one hand easily. Then I would maybe hit a bump or a curve in the road, and the vibration was bad all of the sudden. If it were the tire(s), wouldn't it be a constant issue? With every rotation? I am planning to drive it around the street a little and see if anything changed or improved, then swap the front/rear tires if there is still an issue. Regardless, i am glad I changed the tire rods, they were in pretty poor shape. I'm thinking it might be a combination of issues that I am having. I guess one advantage of replacing things yourself is that you can do several things for the cost of one item at a repair shop, even if you do "throw parts" at it sometimes.

Bought the Ball Joint removal tool and a torque wrench from harbor freight today, had 20% coupon. The ball joint removal tool works great, just remember to leave the nut on because it pops off like a gunshot when it goes. It also wont' ruin the boot like the pickle fork does, it case I need to remove them again without damaging them. Tomorrow I plan to adjust the alignment a little, seems somewhat toed out. Still have a little clicking on the passenger side when jacked up and pressing at 9 and 3, we'll see if the death wobble is improved tomorrow after work. If not, I'm thinking: Brake rotors Inner tie rods TC rod bushings Rag Joint Rack Mounting Bushings Funny thing is it didn't really have this problem 6 years ago when I blew the engine (rear main oil seal leaked all the oil on the interstate). It is a problem that seemed to develop/worsen after sitting.... Thanks for all the advice and help guys! I also love "cheater bars". No way I could've gotten those jam nuts off without them. How do I adjust the toe without removing the outer tie rod end from the knuckle/spindle thing?

That's a good point. I just thought it sounded and felt cool. After driving my company's 2010 Impala, it makes me realize that these cars aren't that fast overall. But we all know speed isn't the entire point.

Thanks for all the replies. I did work on it for about an hour after work. Man, it is a pain. Just getting the cotter pins out sucks. Couldn't get the ends to come out of the knuckle with a pickle fork. Probably going to rent a tool from the parts store. Also, even if something else is worn, like the TC rods, these tie rod ends are shot completely. Will definitely be an improvement, if I ever get them off... sometimes I wonder why I even work on cars, it really isn't fun most of the time! Should I rent a tie rod removal tool or buy a small sledge and beat on the side of the "knuckle"? No real difference between accelerating or braking. Actually doing either seems to help, as well as hitting a bump in the road helps.

That's what I thought about the tires siteunseen, would be consistent with each rotation. Funny you mentioned power steering... One of the old receipts I have from the PO (friend's brother) was a general check up and change all fluids. I was thinking "Oh great, all the fluids were changed not long ago" until I got to the line that said he flushed the power steering system for $75.... I won't be going to that mechanic.... I did move rotate the steering wheel with the wheels off the ground, and it seemed pretty responsive to the wheels, no "play". I looked at that round "rag joint", seemed good. I plan to do these tie rods tomorrow or Friday and see if it improved. Granted, when I did inspect it, the sway bar links and bushings and probably most of the other bushings/rubber could use a refresh at this age. I just want it "cruiseable" for now. I have too many tickets already. Thanks

The car came with a bunch of receipts, showing it was painted in 1988. Also there was a tire receipt from 2004, which seems accurate. Up close you can see they aren't new, but still have good tread left. It's amazing what a little tire shine will do for the picture haha I suspected the tires, since the car has been sitting for about 6 years. A couple of the tires have a slow leak, so they would eventually go nearly flat. But I thought that if the tires were out of round or "flat", then the vibration/shimmy would happen all of the time. Which is doesn't. It doesn't change when braking, it is relatively intermittent, A few times I was accelerating pretty fast, got up to about 50, and had no problems. Other times it shakes violently at 30. So it is definitely an intermittent deal. I waited six years to drive this thing again darnit! I guess it's not something I could've noticed when I first started the engine, since I only went around the parking lot a few times slowly. Almost never any vibration below 30 mph.

Thanks, well there's another thing to look at if this doesn't cure it. So far I'm thinking the possibilities are: outer tie rods (changing these), inner tie rods, TC rod bushings, warped rotors, unbalanced or damaged tires. I can deal with some vibration, but it would literally shake violently, I couldn't look out the window to see if the tires were "dancing" with it since I had to focus so much on maintaining control. My car is definitely a "20 footer", lots of cracks in the paint and a few chips with rust. Not bad for a rust belt car that's 41 years old! Also less stressful to actually drive since it isn't mint.

So I took my mostly stock 1976 280z out Monday for the first time in 6 years after replacing the blown engine (replaced with a 79 2.8 L). Ran pretty good, but at speeds above about 30 mph, I would get an intermittent "Death Wobble" in the steering wheel. The steering wheel would vibrate/shimmy back and forth, I actually pulled over to see if I had blown a tire. Jacked it up, steering wheel locked: no play up and down (pushed at 12 and 6). Decent play side to side (pushed at 9 and 3). Looks like the play is in the outer tie rod ends (might be stock...) so I ordered 2 Moogs. I have replaced tie rods on other cars before, I know they can be a pain. I want to get the alignment at least close enough to enjoy a weekend cruise, so I'm looking at keeping the toe the same as it is now (I have normal tire wear). Any advice on this job? I understand you want the leading edge to be about 1/8" less than the trailing edge of the tires for slight toe in. What exactly do I turn to adjust this once the new ones are installed? I assume something on the inner tie rods? (Yes I've read that if I did need to eventually replace the inners, I have to use two RH ones etc...) The driver's side is the "reverse threaded" side, correct? I plan on just cracking the holding nut loose and using that as the starting point. But I also know new tie rods may not be the exact same length. As a side note, what's everyone running for base timing? It says 7 degrees on the hood. This engine seems a little less powerful, the stock engine would "chirp" the tires when shifting from 1st to second (automatic, I know, I plan on a manual swap someday, but the one I pulled from a ZX is the "wide ratio", so it might be a dog). Thanks, i'm really hoping to enjoy this car this summer!

FYI Not too long ago I installed white gauge face overlays and some blue incandescent bulbs in my dash. (76 280z). The gauges turned out great, but the lights were still dim, and didn't have as much of a blue tint as I wanted. I don't want to do the bulbs again, since it is a time consuming job. I'm ready to drive it! I found these at the local parts store, others may have them. Plugs into your cig. lighter and has 4 bright blue LEDs that have 3M mounting tape on the bottom. As long as you clean the mounting surface (degrease), they stick great and light up very brightly. The clock isn't lit, since there are only 4, but my clock doesn't work anyway. I then turn the dimmer way down or off, I don't need it with these. About $16. You can play around with the mounting angle to reduce glare: I put the speedo and tach ones on the angled lip in the bottom center, and on the left side for the temp and batt gauges to light them evenly. Just a tip for anyone who wants a quick and inexpensive temp (or permanent) fix to the dim gauges. HTH

Thanks, I had those mirrors on mine, I wondered if they were stock or what.

Mine had a screw on "flexible black" antenna when I bought it. I swiftly removed it, as I do with all of my cars. I think antennas ruin the aesthetics. I covered the "base" with a small vacuum tube cap. Never had trouble with reception in the city. Also, if you use an mp3 player with the proper wiring (not the Fm transmitter, where you have to select a station) that plugs into your "Aux", you don't need an antenna. FYIi

You definitely need to get the tank "boiled", and the screen cut out (if equipped). That was causing my car to die after a few minutes. Also, clean ALL of the electrical connections/pigtails. If they are green, they should be cleaned. You may also want to verify that each injector is working. Use the screwdriver test: put a screwdriver on the injctor, put your ear to the end of the screwdriver. You should hear a constant clicking sound. I had one injector that was not firing. You can search, and use a 9 volt battery to clear the injector. Also, by looking at the spark plugs, you can see if one cylinder is not firing or has a problem. HTH

I had a similar problem and had to have the gas tank boiled and cleaned. Fixed my issue. Common problem for these cars FYI.

I actually have a "spare" 240z plate lamp housing from the junkyard, I think I'll look at it... Unless mine (76 280z) has been tinkered with, I don't think it has these shields. Everyone must have this issue then, maybe it is not as noticeable with the stock 280z bumpers since they are larger, but I'm sure they would illuminate the bumper too much. My 87 Monte SS had the lights mounted from the sides ----> plate <----- and my 99 Tahoe has them in a "shield" so the point directly at the plate. And my "lenses" are old and faded, I can only imagine how bright they would be new! Thanks all

Sounds like a very inexpensive solution that should work. I think I'll do that. Do you notice the same issue? Due to the angle of the lamps? Thanks for the input

Hi all. Really getting excited, after 6 years without driving my 280z, I'm set to be back on the road in June. After a rod went through my block back in 2011, I found a used 280z engine and installed it myself, something I'd never done before. (Rear main oil seal leaked a lot and ran out of oil after a long cruise....) Thanks to these forums, which helped me a lot! Not a huge issue, but an annoying one: My license plate lamps are too bright! I have the 240z bumpers on, and it illuminates the whole road on the rear. They are just stock replacement bulbs (194 I believe). Other cars have the plate lamps pointed more directly at the plate, ours just points down, causing the issue. Anyone else notice this? Any way to fix, without removing them? (I have enough tickets and don't need another reason to get pulled over...) Thanks

Hi all, I have what should be a simple problem to fix. First: Starter is new, less than 1 year old. Battery is also new and charged. (Starter included solenoid) When I go to start the car, turn the key, I get the "clicking" sound, starter does not engage. Volts are fine both at gauge and at battery with multimeter. I turn the key over a dozen or so times, and it finally engages the starter and starts fine. Starter and battery have no problem when finally engaged. Is this some kind of starter relay or switch? Definitely sounds like something electrical. Any help is appreciated, this is about the "last" thing I want to address before starting to drive the Z in the spring. (other than shocks, u joints, a driveshaft loop, hmmm I guess the list never really ends...)

Maybe I will apply the water weld to the inside as well. My issue with it is it isn't like regular JB weld, it is more like a putty, therefore harder to get into all of the crevices. If it was more of a liquid, it would be easier to seal it up.

Don't forget that most shops will remove the in-tank "screen" when cleaning a tank. (depending on the year) Mine was completely rusted shut, therefore causing my car to die often. (they showed me the part they cut out) I think they have to cut it out, it's not replaceable or anything. I just added a G3 filter between the tank and pump, my replacement fuel pump had no inlet screen. No problems with car dying since doing this.

Thanks for the replies, I'll try to tighten it a little further. The electrical connectors seem to be in the way if I try to use the lever across the ring method, but I will try it. My intuition told me what has been mentioned, that I should tighten it past the tabs, then the tabs keep it from backing out. There is a youtube video of a guy fixing this leak on a 240z and he stopped at the tabs, so I thought I'd verify. Thanks for the feedback

Just a thought: I always had a problem when shutting my doors (both). They wouldn't shut all the way. I would close the door, then have to "lean" against them when partially latched to get them to close all of the way. I tried adjusting the door latch/striker several times, on both sides. Up/down, In/Out, and it never helped. A few weeks ago I was spraying some Silicone spray and decided to try the latches. Amazingly, this fixed my problem. I am not able to close the door normally without much effort. I couldn't believe how simple this solution was, and, honestly, felt at little dumb for have not having tried it before. Sometimes simple things help HTH>

I have been working to stop a slow drip leak from near my fuel sending unit, stock 76 280z. When I fill the tank above about 3/4, I get a slow drip from that area. It is hard to tell if it is the o ring or the elec. connectors, or maybe a hole in the top of the tank? I have installed the new o ring, and also a new locking nut. I also put some JB waterweld around the electrical connectors on the outside (I didn't want the chance of putting anything on the inside in case it fell off into the tank). No leaks right now, since the tank is about 1/2 full. Is there a special tool for these lock rings? I used the screwdriver/hammer method. There is a small tab on the locking ring that I cannot tighten further. (How far am I supposed to turn the locking ring?) I cannot tighten the ring any further, it started bending the tabs. Here are the tabs I cannot tighten further. Is it supposed to tighten to the arrowed tabs, or all the way the the sharp "stoppers"?

Thank you much

I was going to post a new question about kill switches, but since the conversation has started... Do I need a relay? Can I just splice a metal toggle switch or rocker switch in the wire I wish to disable? ( I know this would "work", but I would prefer to avoid any fire/electrical problems) I was thinking about either the ignition wire, the fuel pump (electric) wire, or the starter solenoid wire.