ramsesosirus

The only reason I am stuck on adjusting them is since I don't know when they were last adjusted, and they sound like a "sewing machine" when the car is running, is that an indicator, or is that normal? thanks for the reply; I should add it ONLY backfires at low RPM, like just after you take off from a stop. Once you are going 30-40 mph, its much smoother, no backfire.

Hey guys Sorry if this sounds stupid, but I've never adjusted valves before. I read all the appropriate info and got the right tools (feeler gauge, crows feet wrench socket, 27mm socket, torque wrench) and know how to do it but... When got the No. 1 cylinder lined up, so the cam lobe points up, I can't get the nuts loose. I think the top one is the locking nut, botttom is adjuster. The locking nut is reg thread, righty tighty lefty loosey?? I could NOT get the top one to budge. EDIT: Okay I feel stupid now, I rechecked the write up and it appears that the BOTTOM nut is the lock nut, so I would need to lossen THAT first with the crows foot... right?? I used the 14mm on top, 17 mm on bottom. It almost feels like the 14 mm is SLIGHTLY too big for the top nut, is this the right size for it? I was trying as hard as I could to loosen it, but if I pulled any harder it felt like it would strip (since the 14mm seemed a little big). I decided not to break stuff as the car does run half decent. I tried two different 14mm wrenches to make sure it wasn't just the wrench, both seemed slightly too big. As far as the adjustment, I only checked No 1 Exhaust (FAR left from passenger side) and the No. 2 intake (these two have the cam lobe pointing up at the same time). So cold adjustment, Exhaust 0.25 mm, Intake 0.20 mm; I could get the 0.30 mm feeler in the exhaust with a slight drag, but no bigger. The 0.25 also had a little drag, bu Would this small of an adjustment affect the way the engine runs much?? The main prob I have right now is a low rpm backfire. I don't know if its intake or exhaust backfire. Thanks guys, lookin forward to getting the Z out, I still haven't actually drove her yet, cant wait!! This was also the first time I've turned an engine over by hand (socket/ratchet on crank, w/o plugs installed) and it really helps you understand how the valve system works! BTW In case anyone has any other advice, the things I need to fix are: The low RPM backfire, rear brakes leak (I think from the "T" above the tank, how do I get to that?), and the infamous clunk, which I will investigate further when I get the car out, and also the ignition key is kind of loose and the door handles/locks need work. I will also check fuel pressure when I get a gauge for it; if the pressure is not high enough, and I put a new FPRegulator on, does that indicate the pump?

Well I have a pretty bad oil leak from between the engine and trans. It drips pretty constantly with the car running. I plan to do a Manual Trans swap when fixing the seal (can't have oil on the clutch); Is it possible to just replace the seal after pulling the trans? Or do I HAVE to drop the oil pan? Do I HAVE to remove the rear main cap too? How far in and how do I drive in the new pilot bushing for the manual? Thanks

Whoa thats some good info seppi. That was PPG brand that was thin?? I thought they were like top of the line, thats the OE glass used in my 95 Camry!

Thanks So is the whole windshield tinted, or just a strip at the top? If so, any guess on the VLT%? Is it noticably tinted, or just slightly? Do you think $150 for the glass only is a fair price??

Hey all My windshield has a big crack, well its not really a crack but a big circle like from a bat or bottle, etc... Bottom line is I will need a windshield soon. Anyone used the shaded one from Black Dragon Auto? $150 seems pretty cheap, or is it cheaper at a local glass place? I also see it is "shaded" with a tint strip; how dark is this tinted, if anyone has used these...front tint is illegal unless real subtle, stock benz, bmw have some i think. Thanks

Hello all I just got a nice set of 280z tail lights off ebay, they look real good but one of the screws on the back broke in half when i was trying to get the rusted nut off of it. I think the nut was stripped and rusted on. When i unscrewed it with a ratchet it broke off. About half of the screw is left. I don't know if that is enough length when installed; How do I remove this screw and put a new one in there ? THis is the gold colored threaded stud on the back side of the lens housing. Does it just screw into the plastic (standard or reverse thread?) or is there a screw head under the plastic that I can't see? i unscrewed the flat hex washer that touches the housing but the screw is still firm in there. Just don't want to break it. Otherwise this set is exactly what I was lookin for and for a good price. I was so mad when it broke off! Thanks for any advice.

yeah its supposed to be a direct replacement for the 280z; so this means that the chrome bezel attatches to the light, no the panel?? Either way as long as it separates i can use that CF piece, if i get the money..:cheeky:

alright this is the part i want to use, you see it has no trim piece, just open for the light; http://www.shop.retro-spec.net/product.sc;jsessionid=C6B9357EEBDA5C9CA3E6E2CB279E3F84.qscweb23?productId=4 and this is the part i want to transfer over, i dont know how it attaches or if it does; http://www.zcarsource.com/content/p/9/pid/55794/catid/8346/Exterior_Taillight_Panel_Chrome_Trim_Ring__74_78__Left__Core_Charge____new thanks

Hello all I've always liked the carbon fiber look, if done tastefully, but i never had a car that it would look good on until the z; I saw the 240 and 280 CF tail light panel, which is awsome! but the 280 panel doesnt have the chrome dividers or any dividers on it, it is just open like the 240 one. My question is are the chrome trim rings removable from the tail panel, so i could transfer them to the CF panel? I know i read someone here put the CF 280 panel on, how did you deal with that chrome ring? Thanks Ok after searching some internet sites some sell just the chrome trim piece, it must therefore be removable!

Hey guys and gals Anyone have experience with buying from z car customs, www.zccjdm.com ? They have quite a few parts for decent prices but I don't want to find out their like showcars bodyparts, who seem to be bad to deal with. Thanks!

I may need a fuel pump. 76 z with fuel injection. Are there any aftermarket pumps I can use? The Holley Red says for carbs only; Just don't want to spend ~250 for a pump if I can help it... Any experience with the MSA rebuilt pumps? Thanks

The flex additive dries after a few days. It is only added to aid in installation of the bumper. If you paint with flex additive and try to install a year later, it would still behave the same as with no flex additive.

Hello I am trying to print out my own white gauges. My car is in storage. Anyone know the diameter of the speedo/tach? I measured 3.5 or 3.75 inches . Dont want to print out on the good photo paper if its the wrong size. If the speedo is the right size on my printout than the rest will be as well, since it was scanned from the right gauges. Do you have to pull the dash to get to the speedo tach?? Thanks

Thanks A LOT guys; you really help me out! Arne, sorry for asking same questions multiple times, but I am young and studying to be an engineer, so they taught us check,check,check, build once. Thanks sblake, yeah I broke one of the pressure plate to flywheel bolts off. I don't know but I may have turned it the wrong way (stupid mistake, but it happens after several hours in the junkyard and cold...). The broken stud is now in the flywheel, not protruding so vice grips won't help. Thinking of an easy out, drill, or possibly dremel some screw lines in the stud, and using a screwdriver. Once I broke the other 7 bolts loose, they came out easily so I just need to get it started... Yeah I wondered if the bolts I remove from the torque converter to flexplate would work for the one broken bolt, or can I just pick one up from a hardware store?? That is the only bad thing that happened, otherwise the time in the junkyard was well worth it, and I'm really glad my buddy went with me, I would've went crazy by myself!!! ONE last question for future use, IF I ever decide to upgrade to R200 3.9 gears, no matter what I'll have to mod some mounts bc no 1st gens came with 3.9 ratio, right? Like the 280ZX R200, that should work in my car but, what exactly needs to be changed for that? Oh and I do plan to get the pilot bushing when I get the clutch kit. Didnt know how to get it out the crank of donor car and the yard was about to close, plus they're not too expensive. THIS SITE IS EXTREMELY HELPFUL!!!!!

Alright guys, after several hours at the junkyard, I have the manual trans in my basement. It was a 79 280ZX ( i found a service reciept) and the trans was a 5-speed. I got the trans, the driveshaft (which has the 4 bolts to the axle, since it was a R200), the flywheel, and the slave/master cylinder. A couple problems/issues.... 1. Will the shaft from my auto 76 work with the 5 speed? The shaft I took has the 4 bolts at the rear yoke connection, I have read the R180 has a center bolt; IS the length the same for an auto or 79 5speed? and will the trans slip joint fit in the 5 speed? 2. Can I use one torque converter to flexplate bolt from the auto? I broke one off in the flywheel from the manual when removing; I will need to get the broken stud out somehow...( I DO have the right flywheel to crank bolts though...) 3. Do I really need the metal ring from the manual car tunnel? the boot was ripped so I just left it there; 4. When I buy a starter, do I need the 280Z manual or the 280ZX manual starter? 280ZX auto/manual had the same starter, right? 5. WIll the crossmember I got bolt to the body of the 280Z? Or reuse my xmember with auto mount/ buy manual mount; 6. When buying slave and master clutch cylinders, do I need the one from 280ZX or 280Z? Or are they the same? Will my 76 280Z have holes plugged for the master cylinder? As far as the pedals I will buy off ebay, but might have to get the whole box and just use the pedals; 7. And whats up with the distributor? I read the auto and manual had different points, auto having two and manual having one; Should I get a 76 280Z manual trans distributor? 8. Can I change the rear gear ratio in the R180 to accomodate the 5 speed better? I heard 5 speeds dont work well with rear ratios lower than 3.90 or so; Sorry for so many questions; The car is away from my home right now, in a garage out of the elements. I've been reading MANY articles about this swap, so I'm not just being lazy, just making sure and clearing up confusion. BTW I got all the parts for just over $100, with a $20 tranny core charge. THANKS!! ALSO will the pedals/box be the same for 76 77 78 280Z??? Just thought of this while searching ebay....

Awesome! Thanks sblake and arne; Sounds like I'll be heading to the yard pretty soon; might pick up the dshaft if the joints are in good shape; Hopefully I'll get the whole trans, master and slave cyl, and linkage for under $100; Then I'll just need a new clutch and the right pedal box, which I have seen on ebay. Thanks

Ok, read up on that, much appreciated; So will that driveshaft work with the R180? The 4 and 5 speed use diff driveshafts/ujoints, right? So if it is a 4 speed, I can use it, but if it is a 5 speed than I would need the different rear? Or will either work with the R180? Or would I need two different U-joints on the shaft? Again, thanks a lot guys!

well i have the auto so my rear dff is the R180? should i grab the rear from that car too (200?); or should i get the WHOLE rear axle/shafts/brakes/mounts/bar, shocks/struts same??? thanks

There is an 80's non turbo 280ZX at my local junkyard. I am thinking of pulling the trans since it is a manual and i have an auto that doesn't feel too great, may be on its last legs... 1. Will this trans fit/work? I know its the same motor. 2. What about the driveshaft? 3. What parts exactly should I get from it; flywheel, brake pedals/clutch pedals; I read that I need the spacer and the longer bolts; 4. WIll my stock brake set up work, with the other pedal? 5. Will my ECM know the difference?? THanks

Is there a kit for mounting a CD player in 280 Z? I have a CD player but its just sitting in there, skips a lot. Maybe I am missing a part or something? Or is there a specific kit I can get? Thanks

Well you may be right sblake; I need to ask my friend bc he had his RX7 shaft done at a shop, I think it was like 100 bucks at least; May be worth it; Other issue is I don't really trust any mechanics but me anymore. I have one guy I trust but he can't do that kind of stuff. I am just lookin into the diff options right now. Thanks!

So a 72-74 would bolt right up with new u-joints? Does that seem like a better idea than dealing with the non servicable u joints? Zbarn lists 3 sets of DS; 70-71; 72-74; and 75-78 so I think the 70-71 had the diff mounting location, i think; BTW I wont be driving this car is the winter anymore... I know i bought it to drive but i need to fix some things on it and get her ready to drive daily in spring/summer; I just can't bear to ruin it yet if i can help it... hopefully ill have a storage garage if money allows otherwise itll be outside w/tarp under and cover over;

My 76 280Z, auto trans needs all new u joints (all 6, 2 ds 4 rear axle) The DS has non servicable u joints. I've heard a shop could replace them; BUT would an earlier 240 driveshaft fit? I am thinking of getting a used 240 shaft with servicable joints and putting new joints on it. Are these the same length, and the same u joints (for rear and trans?) Thanks New driveshafts are expensive and having a shop do the swap of the non servicable ones is expensive too; I guess the zbarn.com has some; looks like the 72-74 would be the one to go with, if it is interchangeable?